This question may seem "a little off" to some of you. What? Right way or wrong way in winding watches, huh? Seriously, I've noticed when winding several watches in my collection, I can only go one way when turning or winding the stem. Does this denote "a sick watch"? I assumed winding back and forth til almost tight was the way to go until I purchased a watch at Nationals and vendor said it was okay to wind one way. I purchased the watch and may have gotten stuck with "a sick watch". This watch can only be wound one way or "down". Had to have it since the dial is gorgeous!(aqua/gold and fancy)!

Can you shed some light on my question?

Stephanie O'Neil
NAWCC Member 143979

Stephanie,

Your questions are great and this one is no exception. I recall asking it a few times as well. Seems there is no definitive answer. I prefer the "back-and-forth" motion when winding my watches as I feel it gives me more of an indication of how everything sounds and reassurance that all is well. Some watches will only wind forward and to me that doesn't seem as good.

The age of most of what we collect being what it is, we would probably be well-advised to use a gentle touch and I tend to turn the crown slowly back and forth until I meet resistance and then stop. Someone with more watchmaking prowess may have a better answer than mine.

I can't help but think I would have wanted to carry a "Wind Indicator" were I around back then even given all the choices available. You see I like guages, meters, a lot of instrumentation. I guess I just want to be absolutely certain of exactly what is going on!

Lindell

I'm not much of a "Waltham Collector" but this 23-jewel 1892 Vanguard WI is special to me...

On most watches, turning the winding stem backwards just allows the one way clutch on the stem to slip, so it essentially doesn't do anything. Now if the lubricating grease or oil has really become gummy on the slip faces of the clutch, the stem may not turn backwards without a lot of pressure. However, it may continue to wind up the mainspring in the forward direction without difficulty.
So, winding the crown 'one way' will not do any harm, nor will going back and forth, as long as the slip clutch will slip. If it doesn't, it may be an indication that the watch needs service. However, if I remember correctly, there are a small number of movements (fairly low grade Swiss or dollar watches??) that only wind in the forward direction.

Ed Ueberall
NAWCC #49688
IHC #34
http://members.aol.com/stdwatch/

Most watches have a recoiling click so that the mainspring can relax just a little after it is fully wound. This means that if you wind in one direction and then let go it will snap back to the extent of the recoil, giving a shock to the click and the winding wheel teeth. This can result in broken teeth. A back and forth winding action allows the recoil to occur in a more controlled manner, lessening the chance of broken teeth. Watches without the recoil (usually older ones) don't get quite as much return momentum if allowed to snap back, but I still try to wind them gently.

Lindell,
Thanks for your response and for the picture of your interesting and unusual Waltham. If only all our watches could have that feature!

Ed,
With regard to the watch I spoke of, I checked the watch to see which way it winds. I can only wind upwards, as winding backwards gives NO resistence. So in all likelihood, this would be a cluch problem right? Who knows! Thanks for your info!

Jerry T,
Thank you for your information on recoiling. I don't think I have a recoiling problem on this watch, who knows? It's such a beautiful watch but with a few other problems as well as the second hand keeps falling off as it gets in way of the larger hands as it goes around. Larger hands need to be straighted out too.

Service anyone? How much will this baby cost to get fixed?

Stephanie O'Neil
NAWCC Member 143979

Seephanie,
If the winding crown will turn backwards with little or no resistance, it is probably working OK. If the clutch return spring is fairly weak (and some movements are designed this way), the "click" as it is wound backwards will be very difficult to hear and will offer almost no resistance. As long as the movement winds and sets properly, you don't have a problem.
As for the second hand falling off, you might want to try taking a toothpick (a vital part of any watchmakers tool supply ) and gently pushing down on the center of the second hand. The hand is a friction fit to the fourth wheel arbor and will tend to "ride" up the post if it fouls the hour or minute hands.

Ed Ueberall
NAWCC #49688
IHC #34
http://members.aol.com/stdwatch/

Ed,
Thanks for your response. I'm not sure if I was clear on what my watch is doing. As I said, I can only wind the watch upwards. When I try to wind downwards, it seems like there is no tension, that winding in downward does nothing for or to the watch. It's like something has slipped. It's a little weird and I'm not too sure my explanation is a good one.

With regard to the second hand, one day I'll try your "toothpick" method. What would you suggest in straightening out the other hands as they are crookied?

By the way, I think it's a pretty good watch. Here's a little more info on it:

Elgin, 17 jewels, model 3, 12 size, serial # 26875860-1923. Case has green/gold cast to it.
Case reads: Illinois Watch Case Co., Elgin Tivoil, gold filled 14K, gaurenteed 3892616. The dial is beautiful and the reason I purchased the watch. In shades of teal/blue, gold and white.

Stephanie O'Neil
NAWCC Member 143979

As long as the crown will wind the mainspring until it is fully wound, the mechanism is working correctly. Winding backward (CCW looking down on the top of the crown) is not supposed to "do" anything.
Straightening hands can be done with some moderately sturdy tweezers ( I prefer the "Z" style, the No. 6), but you have to be very careful, as hands (the blued ones anyway) are made from spring steel which will break if pushed too far. It is best to remove the hands and straighten them while laying upside down on cardboard. With experience, hands can also be straightened by holding them in one hand and bending them with the fingernail of the other hand. The gold toned original hands are similiar to the blued ones. All of this takes practice, so start with some spare junk hands first. BTW, the modern 'replacement' hands are made of a very soft material (anodized aluminium?) that bends very easily, so make sure which type you have before applying too much pressure.

Ed Ueberall
NAWCC #49688
IHC #34
http://members.aol.com/stdwatch/