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Mainspring Fitting ? "Click" to Login or Register 
IHC Life Member
Picture of Patrick Wallin
posted
Coiling the inner coil around the arbor so the hook picks it up. Not as easy as it sounds, at least for me. I have broken new MS's after several attempts to get it to catch. How do you do it.
 
Posts: 1732 | Location: Enumclaw, Washington in the USA | Registered: October 02, 2011
posted
I have broke mainsprings like that also. What I do is before putting the arbor in I make the loop it fits in slightly smaller than the arbor with a pair of small needle nose pliers. Then I push the arbor in and turn it till it catches.
 
Posts: 1143 | Location: Chicago, Illinois in the USA | Registered: September 05, 2010
Picture of Brian C.
posted
A pair of round nose mainspring pliers works best, if you can find them.
 
Posts: 1857 | Location: Epsom, New Hampshire USA | Registered: December 14, 2002
IHC Life Member
Picture of David Abbe
posted
I use a small Jewelers pliers to compress the inside "coil" using the next coil out as a backup to keep from kinking the inner coil.

 
Posts: 6492 | Location: Southern California in the USA | Registered: July 19, 2007
IHC Life Member
Picture of David Abbe
posted
When you inspect your coil, the most important part of your work is the 180 deg "wrap" that keeps the winding arbor "tooth" engaged.

 
Posts: 6492 | Location: Southern California in the USA | Registered: July 19, 2007
IHC Life Member
Picture of David Abbe
posted
If you get lucky, you will find one of the wonderful little Waltham complimentary Mainspring forming pliers on eBay Pocket watch parts and tools. They are very good for "starting" the coil. Especially the "white steel" stuff which is very resistant to coiling.

 
Posts: 6492 | Location: Southern California in the USA | Registered: July 19, 2007
IHC Life Member
Picture of Patrick Wallin
posted
Last time I did it like Jim said, only it was after I kinked it and bent it back. Hope it holds as the unit is running. Right now I am off to the Bay to see if I can find a pair of pliers as Brian & David mention, trying Brains site first then Dash to.
Thanks Guys.
 
Posts: 1732 | Location: Enumclaw, Washington in the USA | Registered: October 02, 2011
posted
Patrick, my method looks to be what Dave showed in pictures. So at least I know I am not alone in doing it this way. Do as he has shown and it should work for you also.
 
Posts: 1143 | Location: Chicago, Illinois in the USA | Registered: September 05, 2010
IHC Life Member
Picture of Robert Lee Milliron
posted
Don't feel all alone on this one, Patrick!! That's the WORST problem I've ever had working on a watch. It's quite a problem to get the arbor to catch ALWAYS, in the winder OR on the arbor.
 
Posts: 663 | Location: North Carolina in the USA | Registered: June 01, 2005
IHC Life Member
posted
Micromark has these:
http://www.micromark.com/Small...oop-Pliers,6617.html

Dunno if they'll work or not; they look similar....

Regards,
Bob
 
Posts: 218 | Location: Oak Harbor, Washington in the USA | Registered: May 21, 2009
IHC Member 1514
posted
I BROKE A MAINSPRING TRYING TO BEND IT TO FIT A WINDER I GOT JUST GOT LAST MONTH(K&D NO.128).BUT I DONT THINK IT HAS A BIG ENOUGH "TOOTH".CAN THESE BE FIXED?
 
Posts: 74 | Location: Columbus, Ohio in the USA | Registered: December 29, 2010
IHC Life Member
Picture of David Abbe
posted
The K&D winder has a very short tooth so that it does not extend through the hole and damage the spring by contacting and scratching the next "wind". As the tooth grows old you have to use a small square edge jewelers file or (better yet) a sharp edged arkansas stone to re-edge the contact side of the winding pin. It is hard, takes time and pays off. I know.
 
Posts: 6492 | Location: Southern California in the USA | Registered: July 19, 2007
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