Hello IHC 185! Brand spanking new to the group, and fairly new to using forums on in general, so forgive me if this topic has been discussed previously. I did use the search feature and found plenty of references to pocket watch database website, but no discussions on the positives vs. negatives of it vs. the pricing book often referenced by collectors. I’ve been collecting for some time, and have always used the database to research potential purchases, including establishing a value I’m willing to pay. So, back to the topic, hopefully some of you regulars here can shed light on why you use “the book” vs. using (what seems to me much more user friendly) Pocket watch database website. Thanks in advance!

Hi Steve , I use the database for information mainly, if I want to figure a value I look at past auctions on e bay and Jones/Horan auction information to find out what an item sells for .

I agree with Kevin

The best way I've found for pricing is to check past auctions on eBay, sold listings for auction houses, and really just follow the market and see what things are going for. Don't look for the price people are selling things for, look for what things have sold for. Someone can list a common, nickel cased 7 jewel Elgin for $3000, doesn't mean they're going to get it.

It's been my experience that educating yourself as best as possible on a watch or company you enjoy will be your best asset. If you do that, the price guide will become a secondary resource very quickly. It's a very general guide.

I haven't used the PWDB resource for pricing, so cannot comment on it.

Condition plays the biggest part of pricing, and it takes an eye to tell when something is worth big bucks or if it's munged together from parts. There's no substitute for knowing if what your looking at is original, correct, and in good shape.

Good luck! What kind of watches do you enjoy collecting?!?!

The estimated values displayed on the Pocket Watch Database are statistically derived from actual online sales. As a result, these values remain current throughout the year as final prices fluctuate. However, since each watch has unique characteristics in regard to condition and conductibility, the values should only be viewed as a general guide and will generally be more accurate when evaluating a very common grade as opposed to an uncommon grade.

Additionally, if the watch features any rare or more collectible characteristics like a rare dial or uncommon variant, those values can essentially be ignored completely. As Kevin and Rick mentioned, neither the Pocket Watch Database nor any book should be a replacement for conducting your own research. Searching through ended listings on a variety of auction sites to find similar watches sold is critical when attempting to determine value.

At the end of the day, the actual value will be determined by the market when that individual watch is sold.

This is some very good information here!

I would add when looking at and considering a watch purchase try to find at least TWO or more of recent similiar sold watches to help get a handle on how much to pay. As experienced as we all are here on watches what is and is not correct and acceptable etc etc I must admit NO one really knows this current market pricing. It is crazy. If it's a one of a kind that you really want to own you'll have to make that decision for yourself as to price.

Like the Shugart Book, don't use all recent sales as a Bible. They will get you close and you must judge the watch in question as to condition compared to the sale watches. They CAN vary several hundred dollars depending on case dial movement condition variants etc But if you see 3 or 4 watches like the one you're looking at selling in the 500-600 range the one you're looking at for 1000 may be a bit pricey. Conversely you cannot expect to buy same watch for 300. As I have told many a prospective customer "I cannot sell you a $500 watch for $200".

If the value is worth it to you to own it, then by all means go for it after making sure it's what it's supposed to be. Prized watches in excellent condition generally will hold their value. YOUR job will be determining what that value IS. And no one can tell you. Only documented recent sales of similiar watches tell the real tale. What I do is add or subtract depending on condition to arrive at the best mean time valuation. And my watches will run a little higher than someone just selling one or two off. My 25 years experience and me standing behind every watch I sell IS worth something. Good Luck to all!