HELP! I JUST BOUGHT THIS WATCH THINKING A "SMART GUY" LIKE ME COULD EASILY GET THE CASE OPEN USING MY PROFESSIOAL GRADE RUBBER CASE OPENER (NO) OR A CASEOPNER BLADE (NO,NO IT IS NOT A SNAP OFF)OR SHEER STRENGTH (NO,NO,A THOUSAND TIMES N0!). I HAVE THOUGHT ABOUT PUTTING IT UNDER A STRONG HOT LIGHT FOR AWHILE TO EXPAND THE METAL BUT I AM NOT SURE IF THE ADDED HEAT WOULD DAMAGE THE WATCH SINCE I DON'T KNOW THE TYPE/MODEL OF M0VEMENT OR WHETHER IT IS ADJSTED TO HEAT/COLD. ANY IDEAS

2

3

Here is a LINK.

crazy glue hex nut to it and give it a twist

I search this site again. Here is another link. #2

THANK YOU. SO MANY GOOD IDEAS. I WILL LET YOU KNOW HOW IT GOES.

I was watching that one all the way, John. The tip-off is usually the hands - Seth put the chunkier spade hands went on the cheaper watches, while the more slender spade hands (like the auction example) were used on the higher grades.

Secondly, that's a genuine porcelain-enamel dial, not a faux Swiss pressed dial found on the lower stuff.

But the real indicator is the seconds hand. The lower-end Models 6 through 12 got the ball-end seconds hand, while the arrow-end hand (below) usually went on the Models 2 through 5.

I'm very curious to see what's under there. My guess is a gilt Model 3.

Did you get it open yet, John?

Regard! Mark

I have decided to send it to David Abbe and let the expert open it. It will need cleaning (COA) anyway.

jg

Can I do a pictorial?

Anything you can do will be helpful. I am a little concerned about the "nuts and bolts" approach.

jg

Looking forward to seeing the pictorial, David!

Regards! Mark

FYI& FWIW, the "nuts and bolts" approach Peter mentioned is a last ditch effort that has never failed me.

Years ago I took a large nut and welded it to a large flat washer. When all else fails, a little superglue around the washer affixed to the case back or bezel [glass removed], let it set up, place a wrench on the nut and simply turn it off. Works like city water and indoor plumbing

It is large enough to work on the 18 sizes and it will work equally as well on the O sizes since the superglue is put on the washer where you need it to make contact with the stuck watch part. It's a 2" washer simple & effective

Here's my "tool"

regards,
bb

John sent it to me . . . I opened it. Firstly the case . . . (new Xtal)

#836 made and dellivered in First Year (1885) production Model 1. VERY RARE and collectible. Should be OK Mechanically but needs a new balance staff.

Thank you Dave. I am eager to know all about it. dis the casw survuve the opening well. Looks like a little dent in the photo.

The "dent" is a reflection of the camera. The case is allo-sameo but now can be opened at will. I directed my miniature gremlins to crawl under the dial and around the backside to detonate their non-volatile bad smelling salts of a non insulting nature but which cause the case to open its recalcitrant backside and let out with a "WHOOP", whereupon I sneakily grasped the case cover before it closed again and held it open whilst squirting in some miracle lube (isopropyl alky) upon which it gave up and stayed open with a "wheeze". Cleaning and fixing might take longer.

We Irish call them leprecans and wee people. They are more seen after a "few pints" of the creature.
But your boys did a good job. This one is a keeper. Thanks again.

jg

When all else fails soak it for a day in a small container of goof off or lighter fkuid. It may affect the dial but some is better than none. I just remembered, Thermite works well too!

Nice pick, John. Seth apparently blocked out its first 10,000 numbers for the Model 1 before changing the setting yoke arrangement for the Model 3, so you have a fairly scarce movement.

Dave, you need to get out of the office more! Or put on a mask while using chemicals.