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Dial replacement "Click" to Login or Register 
posted
I have an SLarose paper dial for the Welch calendar regulator. The current dial is a paper replacement which has some bubbles in it.

The metal part of the dial is concave and as I imagine gluing a flat piece of paper onto it, I can see why wrinkles and bubbles are there.

Is there a secret to gluing these paper dials onto concave dial surfaces, without getting wrinkle and bubbles?

Charlie
 
Posts: 719 | Registered: December 15, 2002
posted
Well, on second look, it is not a concave dial, it is sunk in the middle like a double sunk pocket watch dial (w/o the seconds bit). What kind of glue do you use on the paper dials.

Charlie
 
Posts: 719 | Registered: December 15, 2002
Picture of Tom Seymour
posted
Charlie,
I haven't glued a dial, but I know for paper work, rubber cement does not wrinkle the paper and can be applied to be temporary or permanent.

Tom Seymour
NAWCC #41293
IHC #104
IHC Exec.V.P.
 
Posts: 2537 | Location: Mount Angel, Oregon in the U.S.A. | Registered: November 19, 2002
Picture of Carlos Flores
posted
Wall paper glue make paper very pliable allowing to conform to irregular surfaces easily, probably it can work..
 
Posts: 325 | Location: Near Mexico City, Mexico | Registered: July 05, 2003
posted
I am getting the impression that gluing paper dials onto vintage clocks is not something collectors like to hear. Sort of like using reproduction dials on pocket watches.

I own 4 clocks, all of which have brass dials in good condition except for the Welch Regulator. Were these dials originally paper? If not, what was used. Is there alternatives to "restoring" other than paper dials? It currently has a poorly installed paper reproduction dial now.

Charlie
 
Posts: 719 | Registered: December 15, 2002
Picture of Tom Seymour
posted
Original dials were made from many things from painted wood, enamel, painted metal and, of course - paper. For some clocks a paper dial is just the right thing. I think dial replacement for clocks follows the same discussion that one goes through to replace dials for watches.

Replace only if the original is not useable or presentable at all.

The replacement should be of appropriate material and design to be faithful to the original.

Tom Seymour
NAWCC #41293
IHC #104
IHC Exec.V.P.
 
Posts: 2537 | Location: Mount Angel, Oregon in the U.S.A. | Registered: November 19, 2002
IHC President
Life Member
Picture of Lindell V. Riddle
posted
Anyone who missed Charlie's great clock be sure look at "Welch Calendar Regulator" in this forum. Congratulations on a great find Charlie!

Tom's advice is well-taken on anything old that we are entrusted with. We must remember we are Caretakers of Horological History and today as never before we understand and appreciate how fragile some of the history is. Do your research, formulate a plan and proceed carefully.

Wink
 
Posts: 10553 | Location: Northeastern Ohio in the USA | Registered: November 19, 2002
posted
Thanks Tom and Lindell

This clock has been through 2 sets of "restoring" hands that probably knew less than me on restoring clocks.
It has a replacement paper dial and from what I see in one book, paper looks to be the original material. The current dial was not cut round.

The bezel/glass has been attached by rivets and solder to the dial pan itself. Their are holes in the octagonal surround that look like the hinge was attached to it.

I would like to see an original set up for one of these clocks, so I can "restore" it, at least to improve the functionality of the hinge. The bezel swings down an inch or two when it is opened, no doubt due to the current attachment method.

I pulled the dial and it is marked E.N. Welch. No serial #, I presumed they were not used on clocks of this vintage. There is one foreign screw, everything else in the movment looks original and it is keeping very good time ( and date).

I really like this clock and look forward to getting the bezel straightened out and having it ticking away on my wall.

Thanks for all the help. Would appreciate if someone could post a pic of the hinge on a similar regulator clock.

Charlie
 
Posts: 719 | Registered: December 15, 2002
Picture of Tom Seymour
posted
Charlie,
The best I can do is a picture of a Jerome short drop octogan. On the outside the hinge has been set into the surrounding wood. However, when you view the inside, yu will see this is not a factory installation. The screws are mismatched and the solder job on the hinge is not the greatest. The glass and bezel do sag a bit when opened. I don't know of too many that dont. I don't know if these picts will help, but thought I would throw them into the conversation on how to do this correctly.

Tom Seymour
NAWCC# 41293
IHC# 104
IHC Executive V.P.

 
Posts: 2537 | Location: Mount Angel, Oregon in the U.S.A. | Registered: November 19, 2002
Picture of Tom Seymour
posted
Outside: Notice the hinge is countersunk into the molding.

Tom Seymour
NAWCC# 41293
IHC# 104
IHC Executive V.P.

 
Posts: 2537 | Location: Mount Angel, Oregon in the U.S.A. | Registered: November 19, 2002
Picture of Tom Seymour
posted
On the inside you can see that this is not how it came from the factory. This is how I recieved it. I don't know how old the repair is.

What is the setup on yours like?


Tom Seymour
NAWCC# 41293
IHC# 104
IHC Executive V.P.

[This message was edited by Tom Seymour on October 28, 2003 at 19:20.]

 
Posts: 2537 | Location: Mount Angel, Oregon in the U.S.A. | Registered: November 19, 2002
posted
Thanks for the pics Tom. Mine hinge is similar, but the rear half is soldered to the back of the dial pan !!!

It really helps to see pics of these things.

Charlie
 
Posts: 719 | Registered: December 15, 2002
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