Hi friends,

herewith some pictures of my father's anniversary clock. After more o less 30 years I have refurbished my first clock and I'm now waiting for the new suspension. It was a very interesting job indeed.

Beppe

Second picture

Third picture

Nice job Giuseppe. Very pretty clock! Mike

Hi guys,

I just finished to restore my 400 days clock.

I also received spare parts but unfortunately Horolovar sent me a 0.023" instead of 0.022" suspension wire.
Cheking for the beating I noted the 8 beats time was 58s and 30/100
After adjusting the regulating nut the new period became 59s and 50/100
Unfortunately I reached one end stop so I couldn't regulate the clock anymore.
Any idea about how I can adjust better the oscillating time ?

Thank for your help and I hope to receive your comments soon.

GREETINGS GIUSEPPE,THE TOTAL INCLUDED ANGLE OF THE PENDULUM AMPLITUDE IS SUPPOSED TO BE 270 DEGREES THAT IS A GOOD FIGURE TO START WITH. THE SPACE IN THE FORK CANNOT BE TO NARROW OR TO WIDE. DID YOU RESET THE ESCAPEMENT DEPTH? YOU SHOULD NOT RESET THE DEPTH UNLESS YOU ARE VERY CERTAIN ABOUT WHAT YOU ARE DOING. ALSO IS YOUR SUSPENSION WIRE REALLY .022 OR IS IT .0022? YOUR CLOCK IS REALLY A NICE CLOCK I HAVE NEVER SEEN ONE OF THAT STYLE. HAVE A GOOD DAY. EDDIE

Eddy,
thank for your message.
First of all you are right; the correct wire dimensions are 0.0022" and 0.0023" this is an error due to different measure system as I'm not familiar with a non metric unit.
Concerning the pendulum oscillation after a long stabilization period I see more than 270° and it is close to 360°
Suspension is close to what I saw on the Horolovar Repair Guide model 25B at page 183
The only difference I have is related to the wire thickness. Could this dimension alter the pendulum period ?

GIUSEPPE, THE PENDULUM PERIOD CHANGED BY ADJUSTING THE FORK UP OR DOWN,MOVING IT UP WILL LENGTHEN THE PERIOD DROPPING THE FORK WILL SHORTEN BUT IF THE FORK IS TO HIGH THE ESCAPEMENT WILL FLUTTER IF IT IS TO LOW THERE WILL BE INCREASED FRICTION ON THE IMPULSE PIN. CLOSEING WILL SHORTEN THE PERIOD. THEY ARE DIFFICULT CLOCKS TO ADJUST YOU JUST HAVE TO ARRIVE AT A HAPPY MEDIUM. THE WIRE DIM. DIFFERENCE SHOULD NOT AFFECT THE OPERATION IT IS TO LITTLE A DIFFERENCE. EDDIE

Eddie,

someone suggested to me to make thin the suspension wire using a small piece of emery paper. 3 to 4 strokes along the entire length of the wire and than check the pendulum period to obtain the right value.
What do you think about this methods ? Could it be practicable ?
Would it be better to change the wire size to the right one ?

Thank again

GIUSEPPE, IT WOULD BE ALRIGHT TO THIN THE SUSPENSION BUT THERE IS 1 MORE THING YOU SHOULD CHECK. LOOKING AT THE BACK OF THE CLOCK THE IMPULSE PIN ATTACHED TO THE ANCHOR I AM REFERING TO THE PIN THAT FITS IN THE FORK SHOULD TRAVEL TO THE RIGHT 4 DEGREES FROM CENTER AND 7 DEGREES TO THE LEFT OF CENTER THE TRAVEL IS NOT EQUI-DISTANT IF IT DOES NOT LOOK CLOSE TO CORRECT ADJUST THE TOP SCREW UNTIL IT LOOKS CLOSE TO CORRECT,ALSO MAKE SURE THAT THE BOTTOM BLOCK FITS IN THE SLOT IN THE PENDULUM WITH OUT ANY SHAKE. EDDIE

Eddie,

this evening I'll do this control.
Nevertheless it could be a little tricky to check so small angles. Do have an idea about how I can do that ?

greetings giuseppe, what you can do is on a piece of paper draw a centerline in pencil perpendicular to the bottom of the paper then draw a 4 degree line on the right side of the line,then draw a 7 degree line on the left side. with the impulse in the center hold the paper so the center line on the paper lines up with the pin move the pendulum and you can tell if it is close to correct. eddie

Hi Eddie,

thank again for your clever suggestion.
I'll do that using my Catia 2D drawing software.

I'll keep you informed.