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Hey clock guys, What do I need to identify my Seth Thomas cabnet clock? I do not see a serial mumber anywhere easily viewable. Thanks, I am basicly looking for an age and a qrade/quality. Aaron Bereiter NAWCC# 156432 Very Proud IHC Charter #55 You will never prosper if you live your life in fear. | |||
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Aaron, How about starting with a picture? I would be happy to help identify the clock. Without a picture, a more detailed description of the case and movement would help. NAWCC #41293 Internet Horology Chapter #104 IHC Exec.V.P. | ||||
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Tom, I'm working on getting a picture right now. I gotta chace down my lazy brother first. Dont forget about me brother, I'm still here. Aaron Bereiter NAWCC# 156432 Very Proud IHC Charter #55 We rise highest when we stoop to help others. | ||||
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Aaron, I'll be looking for the pic when you get it. I know you are there, I've been reading your other posts. Good luck at the Ch.69 meeting. NAWCC #41293 Internet Horology Chapter #104 IHC Exec.V.P. | ||||
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A couple of fotos. Aaron Bereiter NAWCC# 156432 Very Proud IHC Charter #55 We rise highest when we stoop to help others. | ||||
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And another. Aaron Bereiter NAWCC# 156432 Very Proud IHC Charter #55 We rise highest when we stoop to help others. | ||||
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Hi Aaron, I just got back in town. There are a ton of emails to go through, but I had to take a look here first. Just a quick response, then, when I get a chance I will seeif I can dig up more. Clocks don't have serial numbers or grades. The label on this one indicates that it was 1865 at the earliest. The town of "Plymouth" was changed to "Thomaston" in 1865. If you still have the camera and could get a shot of the movement without the dial, that would be good. When I am more awake tomorrow I will try to track down the movement dates. It is one of the earlier ones (raised rings around the wheels). More later! NAWCC #41293 Internet Horology Chapter #104 IHC Exec.V.P. | ||||
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Hey guys, How hard would it be for me to tear this thing down, clean it and oil it? I can do my pocket watches so how about this old clock. It is weight driven so there there is no mainspring to deal with. What would I oil it with? I have some Moebius 8200 would this be sufficent for the pivots? How about cleaners and a rinse? Would my watch solutions work? Just a little advice needed. Thanks, Aaron Bereiter NAWCC# 156432 Chapter 185 Charter #55 Chapter 185 Finance VP We rise highest when we stoop to help others. | ||||
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Aaron, Piece of cake!! Have fun. If you run into any problems....just ask! I'll bet you won't have any problems with this if you have done watches. The new territory is the strike train. Look carefully at how things line up before you dissassemble. The locking pins and lifts for the hammer have to be at the proper spot for the strike train to work properly. Move it manually to the locked position, if it not already there, and note the relative orientation of each of the strike train wheels. Take a couple of pictures! Have fun! Tom Seymour NAWCC #41293 IHC #104 IHC Exec.V.P. | ||||
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Tom, Thanks for the advice. What should I oil this thing with? I have some Moebius 8200 would this work? What do I oil? Just all the pivots? Anything on the escapement? Just a few basic questions. Thanks, Aaron Bereiter NAWCC# 156432 Chapter 185 Charter #55 Chapter 185 Finance VP Chapter 69 So Cal. We rise highest when we stoop to help others. | ||||
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Aaron, I generally use LaPerle, Clock oil. Havev used it for many years and it has done well. I also tried a synthetic clock oil called "Etsyntha Chemie - clock 859". The label also states "Dr. Tillwich GMBH-7240 HORB-AHLDORF. I have not had any trouble with this product either, although I have not used it as much as the LaPearle. Both are available from LaRose. I put a very light coat of PML, Stem Grease on the pallet surface. I learned that from the clockmaker I learned from and have done that for 20+ years without a problem. Tom Seymour NAWCC #41293 IHC #104 IHC Exec.V.P. | ||||
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<Tom Chaudoir> |
Hi Aaron, Before you tear into it, set it up on a fixture and live with it for a while. Watch it run, and keep coming back until you understand how it works. See how the levers interact? When the count wheel lever comes down in a slot, the warning wheel has to be in just the right place, as far as the orienation of the pin. Note where that is. Once you understand the strike sequence, you are the boss. As for lubrication, try this. P.S. I just looked and have the brother of your clock out in the shop. Not as nice as yours. The original dial is gone. Someone painted a board to replace it. As long as the paint brush was loaded, they covered the ugly old maker's label on the inside back. Oh well. They sent it all the way to the 21'st century to someone who will care for it. I guess that's something. Best, Tom [This message was edited by Tom Chaudoir on March 22, 2003 at 1:46.] | ||
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