Greetings All!

I recently purchased an Elgin 8 day car clock that with a proper cleaning and oil should run fine; however, my issue is getting at the movement. I'm certain that the front bezel which retains the glass face and movement screws down to the housing. I've tried several things to break this connection open but have not been able to do so. For those that have worked on one of these am I missing something or is there a trick to getting it open?

Any help on this would be greatly appreciated! I am concerned that I will break the casting that holds the movement if I continue applying more force!

Thanks for your input!

First off we need to know which case you have, there were several. Some are travel clocks.

Does it look like this?

Or this?

These two both screw off, but there are many others.
One thing I've found is if you squeeze too tightly the bezel binds, and won't come off.

Steve

Hi Steve,

I'll upload some pic's. It is a large size 37 Elgin movement, early 27 million series, in a heavy duty cast case. It looks like the second pic you posted except it is cream faced. The back of the cast housing has the mounting point for the attaching bracket that would have been mounted to a dash.

That one was stuck when I got it,too.
First, I turned face down and put some Kroil in the seem where the Threads are, and let it set for a day.
(I think any good penetrating oil will work.)
Then, I used a plastic strap wrench to twist off the bezel. It was tight and cruddy, but it came off.
If you have more questions, don't be afraid to ask.
Hope this helps. Good luck.

Steve

Pics of car clock...

Pic #2

Pic #3

Final Pic of movement

Hi Steve,

Posted the pics of the clock... My next steps are right in line with your thoughts and advice. I have tried to used WD40 as a penetrating oil but this does not seem to get into the threads.

I have also thought about applying some heat to the joint to help draw the oil in as it cools. Any thoughts on this approach??

thanks for your input!

Serge,

WD40 isn't too good for penetration, needs to be thinner. Warming sounds OK, but not too much.
One of those large rubber pads for opening jar lids sometimes helps for grip. Also, a little light tapping around the outer edge,but not too hard or you'll chip the glass.
Nice looking clock, by the way.

Steve

Hi Serge : I have found equal parts automatic transmission fluid and either acetone or diesel fuel is a very effective penetrating oil. (WD40 is only a water displacement oil) Put it on the bezel seam and let sit overnight. Wrap 2 sided (carpet tape) around bezel and a strip on main case. Twist off bezel. I have found this to works extremely well with little risk to the clock or yourself.
Sometimes I let clock sit in the sun for a few min prior to putting oil on but too much heat is not good.

Gentlemen,

Thanks for your advice and input; I'll keep working at it.

Does anyone know if these were all right hand threads or is it possible that some are left handed?? This thing does not want to come off

Never saw one with left hand threads, but those pot-metal, or whatever they are, cases do get quite corroded next to the chrome bezel. The one I had took lots of tapping with an old wooden spoon before it came loose.
Don't give up!

Steve

Gentlemen,

SUCCESS!!! AT LAST

It took a bit more than 24 hours of soaking the threads with PB Blaster penetrant, tapping with a wooden mallet and a H@#$ of a lot of brute force to coax her open. My Son had to hold the case with a 14” oil filter wrench while I used a mouse pad with a rubber bottom to break the bezel free; this, after three days of it not budging.

Turns out it is very fine right hand thread that for its age is in decent condition. I would never have imagined that it would have taken this much effort! Thank you for your advice and encouragement it was a big help… now on to the fun part.

Great news!
Glad I could help.

Steve

Be careful, some of these bezels were "crimped on" for lack of a better term. They were installed over the face then the back edge was rolled over to keep it on. I've also seen them with pins around the edge. Don't know if that was aftermarket repair or what but they were there.

Hi Tim,

Thanks for your input on this. While I did not suffer from these issues on this piece I can tell you that casting and thread quality an these car clocks is terrible! I guess they were not made with the intention of not being serviced for more than a few years after their production. Taking them apart after 60 to 80 years really damages the fine threads.