Sometimes when a replacement staff just isn't available it has to be made. Here are some pictures of a recent project. I got so wrapped up in it I neglected to take pictures of the completed staff, but you'll get the idea.

The first picture is a dental burr that I used for the staff. The steel is very high grade and will cut well with the carbide gravers I use.

Next is the turning of the burr to begin the process.

Continuing to shape the staff

Here is a picture of the balance jewel. The pivot is sized for the jewel.

The shoulder for the rivet must be a friction fit in the balance wheel hole.

Another view

The other side is made by turning the staff around and chucking it in the appropriate collet and then turning it to the correct size. I thought I had more pictures of the finished staff, but I can't find them and maybe just got so wrapped up in this that I forgot to take them. The owner tells me he'll be posting some pictures of the completed watch. There are at least six measurements that all have to be within .01mm (approx. 4/10,000") to make a good staff.

Great pictures and info Roger, thank you.

Best Regards,
Bila

Roger, a good day for a project like that.
Nice pics!

Roger,my hat's off to you!!
Roger

Somebody once called Roger my "Yonker buddy", and that he is.

I finally found a two-tone Seth that was both a duplicate in my collection and was nice enough to carry. It had a busted staff, and after a couple of weeks trying to find either an NOS staff or a donor Model 5, I wrote to Roger.

He was willing to try fabricating the part from scratch, and you can bet that it probably wasn't easy.

But in the end I knew I'd have a perfectly running watch, and I do - a two-tone Grade 182 Model 5 Seth Thomas that is keeping exact time, and a balance that is running both flat and round.

Thanks, Roger - another triumph!

I know from first hand experience that Roger is a perfectionist with everything he does. I speak with him on a some what regular basis and remember well the time he spent on Eric's staff.
It was well worth the time and effort by the looks of the watch.

Roger,

Beautiful work. Can you post a picture of your lathe? I'm interested in seeing the tool rest and graver tips...

I can only assume you are using an xy micrometer dial setup... rather than the free hand.

Thanks a mil, Paul

Thanks all for the kind words. This project was indeed a challenge, but with the right tools, determination and patience it proves that complex parts can still be made.

Paul,

You can see my Boley lathe setup here (last picture): click

Ed Kitner took some pictures of my shop on one of his visits.

I do not use an xy micrometer, it is all done free hand under the microscope. I use Waller carbide gravers to get to within about .03mm of my measurement and use Gesswein finishing stones of various shapes and grits to get to the final measurement and polish pivots with diamond paste.

Roger,

What do you use, and how do you sharpen your carbide gravers?

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Paul,

I have a separate Boley lathe setup for sharpening the gravers. They have to be sharpened regularly in order to perform well. The Waller wheel mounted in the lathe is impregnated with a diamond paste that you renew periodically by placing a small amount of paste on the wheel and using a hardened roller to impregnate the wheel. The holder for the graver is a separate tool I think made by K&D. Following are pictures that I hope will help.

Graver Holder

Holder placed in groove on lathe bed and graver brought into contact with diamond impregnated wheel.

Waller kit box

Typical contents of Waller kit. They usually come with two handles and several tips along with the wheel and diamond paste.

Roger,

Apart from carbide, would a HSS graver cut the dentist burr you are referring to?

.

It could be done, but the graver will need much more frequent sharpening.

Hi Roger. Question I have for you is that when you remove the staff to turn it around to work on the other side does the staff still run true or do you have to shellac it in cement brass and make it run true while the shellac hardens?? Need your expert opinion. Thank you. Karim

Karim,

The work should be true when you turn the piece around if your lathe is in proper order. If you have any doubt and want to make sure, you can use a setup like I have pictured to make sure the piece runs true and then move it away to work or leave it in place to do as much as you want and move it when necessary.

Second Picture

Thank you Roger!

Thanks Roger. You gave me some ideas.
You have a nice setup.