Hi. Trying to find some information on this watch that I bought a few days ago.
Thanks in advance

Don't know if this will help but Locle is in Switzerland. In "Watchmakers & Clockmakers of the World" there is a E. Mathey Le Locle Switzerland in 1910s.

Tom

I have a watch similar to yours but its a keywind signed Emile Richard Locle. This watch has a 15 jewel extremly high grade balance and escapment. The movement measures 20L or 18 size. It has been recased in a silver Mathey stemwind case with holes drilled in the inner dust cover to accomodate the keywind and set functions. The dial is not signed. The Inner dust cover reads: REMONTOIR Ancer 15 Jewels, Mathey, LOCLE. I dont know anything about mine. The 1998 edition of "The complete guid To watches" says: a firm founded in June 1886 by Edmond Mathey-Tissot. Makers of complicated and simple watches of good quality. Here's a picture of my watch.

Charles I looked for yours in "Watchmakers & Clockmakers of the World" Volume 1 by Baillie & "Watchmakers & Clockmakers of the World" 21st Century Edition by Loomes but could not find Emile Richard.

Tom

Thanks Guys for your posts. They only thing that I've been able to gather so far is that F.G. Mathey, after about 1862 joined forces with Tissot to form Mathey-Tissot, a company that is still in excistance today.
As for my movement, in another forum, someone said that my watch was no of high grade, but rather an "intermediate" piece since it was crown wind but was key set. To me, this does not matter, I love this watch. In hte process of trying to retore it since it is not running, is missing the set key and is missing it's hand set. Hope that I may accure these parts here from some one. Will keep you all up to date if anything new developes.

Sorry, almost forgot. Charles, beautifull watch you got there.

Thanks for looking Tom. Christian,Mine Runs well and keeps very accurate time. After I acquired it I trued and poised the balance when I cleaned it. It makes straight line on my old watchmaster G7 in all positions.

Charles do you know the hand set size for your watch? Trying to find some for my watch and at the moment I do not have a gauge. I too have to service this movement. It is extreamly gummy and needs a good service. Thanks for tip to poise the balance, this one will surley need it.

Christian, the hands were on mine when I got it. I can give you measurements.

Thanks anyways Charles.By the way, just noticed that the name on the inside of the case says Tadik Watch Company Swiss. Any ideas?
Thanks in advance

Charles, is there anyway that you can post a picture showng your dial? Just want to compare it with mine.
Thanks in advance

Christian,
Been on a dial-up and only just been able to open the photo's and reply box!

I think you're in the right venue here to get a Correct opinion of your watch!
'Not of high Grade'??? Oh yeah! Compared to what I would ask!

Taking into account some very nice tweaks on your watch - like the train being Fully Jewelled right to the centre wheel (Not common)...... And the Bi-metalic cut compensation balance with timing screws ....... And the helical cut clutch gear on the winder (think about that little mod some - definitely not run of the mill) ....... And what appears to be a hand finished lever with attached pallets (probably also has jewel slips on the faces)
Then, think about the era when this watch was made and the fact it would have been largely hand built, the fortunate first owner that commissioned it would have had to have been Very well healed indeed to buy it!

That watch is in fact extremely good quality compared to its Peers!

I would suggest that it's not a key wind watch though, and that the crown is missing.

Some of these types have a threaded stem and some have a square which is pressed into the boss of a fluted crown. Yours is the latter.
A threaded type crown can be used at a push, just remove the stem and tap it carefully into the threaded part, the bosses are usually quite soft and mould to the shape of the stem square ok.

A nice prize in my book, thanks for posting it.

Charles, another nice earlier example too, many thanks again.

Best regards
John

Hi John. Thank You very much for your insightful comments. As you may know, I'm a complete novice to pocket watches and the only reason I thought that my watch was not too special was that this is exactly what they told me in another forum. Your comments now suggest quite the contrary. I've attached new photos of the movement and close ups of various areas that might be of intrest to all. Please feel free to comment on them.
From my humble observations, I can see that the movement is extremely gunky, with lots of dried oil all over. As you mentioned john, the crown is missing, this I'm afraid will be a hard item to get. One other thing to consider is getting this watch servised. Trying to find a very good watchmaker in South Florida is very hard to find.

Thanks again John. looking forward to your comments.
Regards
Chris
http://s266.photobucket.com/albums/ii276/Caliper1681/Mathey/

Any time Chris ..... (No pun intended)

Some great extra photo's there, would you mind if I uploaded some of them to this topic?
It would help folks see what we're talking about rather than clicking on other links to see them.

If you ever lost any of those links or changed the folders, the links you gave will be dead, putting a few photo's here will preserve them for the forum.

Your watch also has 'Geneva Stopwork' which I pretty much suspected - quite the norm on a Good quality watch.
I would suggest you take care winding the watch too, because it appears the tail on the locking plate is developing a crack - these break very easily if the crown is forced hard when fully wound, very often you will find this part bust anyway.

When you wind a watch fitted with Geneva Stopwork, you will feel the winder go solid when fully wound, rather than a somewhat 'springy' tightening. That is the time to stop winding!
Never try forcing the crown beyond that point!

Crown is an easy fix, I have a box full here.
I'll sort through them and find an appropriate match for the case decoration.
It may be used, or may be new, just depends what I have lurking in the box!

The crowns generally have a silver foil plate crushed over the flutes of a brass base, so some care will be needed to secure the crown to avoid separating the foil away from the base of the flutes.

As for service, you could try giving Chris Abel a shout!

https://ihc185.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/3006013713/m/7771058762

Best regards

John

Thanks again John for all your efforts in helping me out. Please, by all means post the pictures, the only reason that I have not is my lack of knowledge as to how.
Should of said this from the start, but the watch is not running, it has been this way since bought from a watch lot on the bay. I will contact Chris Abell and see what he can do for me.(Thanks for the Link)

Thanks Chris, I've copied all the photo's that will be usefull here, and will put them up for you once I've resized them.

Best regards
John

Thanks John for all your help, especialy for the crown offer.

Thanks John,

Hi Chris I emailed last night,
thought I would post these parts watches for fun to show similar example, left and center Locle

what's left of the faces, one marked Aug Haldimann
the right hand one is still running

Hi Chris. Nice shots. My movement is similar to the one on the right and center and my dial is like the one on the left, but it is not in that bad shape, actually it is in rather good shape for it's age.
Thanks for posting
Chris

Chris,
Done a few photo's now and will get them uploaded for you.
First up is the shot of the 'Geneva Stopwork'
If you take a look at the neck of the 'Pip' that locates into the main disc, there's what appears to be a crack forming.
Take care winding the watch, the pip could be about to part company with it's body! (This is a Very common breakage)!

More to follow

Best regards

John

Thank you John. Looking forward to learning more from all of this.

This is the helical cut winder, shows some wear to the teeth, but not as bad as it would have been using the usual style wheels.

This type gear keeps more tooth area in contact during winding than a standard 'Spur' type, and less likely to fail from tooth tips being stripped or broken.

John