Full movement shot showing the gear more clearly.
John

T'other side of the gear with a partial shot of the lever setting arrangement.
John

Transmission wheel arrangement for the motionwork.

The real surprise for me here, was the lack of a bridge for the barrel.
The top bridge is quite deep, which is a good thing, as the top pivot is what the whole shebang is operating on.
This type arrangement suffers considerable wear to the point the barrel will tilt and rub on the centre wheel stopping the watch.
The only remedy is to rebush the bridge and ream to size after cleaning up the barrel arbour pivot.

John

Winding Square.

Chris, can you let me know the distance between the inside of the bow and the rim of the 'sink', and also the diameter of the wide edge of the 'sink' the crown sits into?

I've got a round crown which is probably too deep - your watch ideally needs a flatter style anyway.
The square on the stem will also extend quite deep into the crown, so will need a crown with a pipe set well inside it.

I've got a few old clunkers to check as some of them have the flatter crown, but need the measurements from your watch - these crowns look silly if too shallow.
You may have to 'hand file' the square to extend further down the stem and then shorten it to suit.

John

Cleaned up shot of the escapement.

Arrow No1 is pointing to the 'interesting' end of the lever!
It is 'counterpoised' - with the 'Moustache' extension counterbalancing the long lever to the balance just visible next to the arrow tip.
Looks to be a hand made lever assembly.

This escapement is termed a 'Straight line lever', as it operates between the pivot centres of the balance and escape wheel, the pallet staff pivots are also mounted on those centres.

Some makers made a point of advertising this feature by engraving the detail onto the inner dome of the case.

Earlier watches used a 'Sidelever' arrangement where the pallets operated offcentre to the balance/escape wheel pivot centreline.

Arrow No2 is pointing to what may be a cracked jewel, or it could just be a leaf of the pinion showing.
Worth checking because if the jewel is cracked, it'll be a pig to repair - the jewels are held by a thin lip of metal 'rolled' over their edges and the settings will be Very Very thin!

John

John, once again you have outdone yourself with all your help on this thread. Thanks for taking the time to re-arrange my photos and for the in-depth explanations.
First. To comment on the issue of the broken jewel. I am inclosing a picture I took of the area that might bring light to the fact that the jewel is broken or not.
As for the measuring for the crown. Can you please elaborate more on how to measure what you need, in more laymen's terms, sorry I'm just a beginner on this and the nomenclature is something that I'm still learning.
Thanks again for all your help.
Regards
Chris


Sure looks like the jewel is broken.

Thanks Chris, always pleased to help even if it takes me a little while to come back on occasions.

It looks like you may have a broken jewel in there.
The surface of the rubies should be perfectly smooth and unblemished, if there appear to be any hairline marks on the surface radiating from the hole to the edge, they most likely cracks.

From photo's though, it's often hard to tell, because the leaves of the pinions show through the thin jewels, and so does crud - which may even be a hair!

I've posted another pic' below, and arrow 'A' is the width of the sink lip I need, and arrow 'B' is the depth from the inside of the bow to the bottom edge of the sink.

It'll help me check against a couple of broken watches I have here for size.

The type of crown your watch should have will be similar to those on the Hebdomas watches I posted on the link below (it's actually a topic not too far below yours on the board here).

https://ihc185.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/2291010082/m/1761048813

Best regards

John

Hi John. Thanks for the Horology lesson again
It would appear that getting my watch running again will have to be put on holdfor now. My guess is that the service would far exceed what I can pay at the moment, still though it has served as a very good lesson and I've learned allot. Thanks all for your valuable information especially to you John.
Also. As soon as I can I'll give you the measurements you asked for.
Many thanks again John.
Chris

Hi John. These are the measurments that you requested.
A=6.35mm
B=2.77mm
Thanks again
Regards
Chris

Thanks Chris, can you check measurement 'B' again though please, sounds very shallow.
I'd guess it would be nearer the measurement you gave for 'A'

Needs to be taken from the inner edge of the bow to the bottom of the curve in the pendant sink - this will give me the max height of the crown needed.

Best regards

John

Sorry John. My mistake. B=5.55mm
Thanks again
Regards
Chris

Chris,
I've sorted out a few likely candidates for the crown, rub is I've bust my digital calipers.
Got a new set on the way, so will update when I'm back in business again.
Got a standard set here, but reading them under a loupe ain't fun and all they did was make me realise just how lousy my eyesight's got!

I'll post some pic's of them later and let you choose!

Best regards
John

Here is a watch I got a few years ago the movement has no marks but fast and slow on regulator but on back of case it has F.L. Mathey Tranelan patent lever full jeweled N 22170 is F.L. Mathey related to F.G. Mathey?

That looks a nice clean un-butchered example Mike, thanks for posting it.

Your watch is quite a lot earlier than Chris's Mathey, so if the two watchmakers are related, your guy is most likely the elder.

You'd need to dig into some genealogical research to determine any family link, but Switzerland ain't such a big country, and back then the gene pool would have been a lot smaller than it is now, so there could well be a family connection.

Comparing the two watches, yours has taper pins holding the dial - Chris's uses the later knife edge screws.

Your watch also has a sidelever escapement with a counterpoised lever (the scrolly hook bit sticking out the end of the lever), whereas Chris's watch has the later 'straight line' lever, where the pivots for the balance, pallet staff and escape wheel are all set on the same centres.

Curiously Both watches only have the English 'Fast / Slow' text for the regulator, so suggests both were made for export and not the home market.

I think your guy stretched the truth a bit by engraving 'Fully Jewelled' on the cover, but then who was going to check - and what constituted being 'Fully Jewelled' way back then?
Would be interesting to see if the centre wheel plus all pivots on the dial plate and mainspring barrel are jewelled.

John

Very nice watch Mike. Like always, thanks John for the Horology lesson.