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Case Prices?? "Click" to Login or Register 
Picture of David Flegel
posted
What should one be paying for watch cases? I know there are so many types and materials that it may be an impossible question to answer. Is there a price range for size 14 and up??
 
Posts: 1212 | Location: Ontario in Canada | Registered: February 06, 2012
IHC Member 1555
posted
A hard one to anwser David, in my experience and IMHO I have noticed prices going-up. You can pay up to and above $200.00 for the heavier (4 Oz)coin silver 18s Hunter cases & $150.00 and up for the open face, and 75% of that for the 16s in the smaller weights. As for gold filled in good condition for the 18s I have paid in excess of $250.00 for 18s and up to $200.00 for the 16s. I hate to say it but the are a premium these days, if I score something below his level I am very happy. Just a footnote to this is that most of my cases were purchased prior to the gold fever thats around now and I got them at a very nice price, I have about 200 very nice g/f case in stock at present.

Best Regards,
Bila
 
Posts: 2265 | Location: Gladstone in Australia | Registered: January 14, 2011
IHC Vice President
Pitfalls Moderator
IHC Life Member
Picture of Edward L. Parsons, Jr.
posted
Here's my 2-cents worth:

There's no simple, set formula David, except if you're bottom-feeding and competing with scrappers. For advanced collectors, the sky's the limit as far as hard-to-find RRG factory cases in better condition are concerned.

Basically condition is everything, and I would think nothing of paying as much as $1000-$1500 or more for select hard-t0-find gold-filled RRG factory cases in top condition, solid factory gold RRG factory cases run about double that.

More common gold-filled factory cases are about the same as generic models, running $400-$700 and up in top condition. Top condition means no issues, no brass, no visible crown wear, no ripples, dents or dings, no large or deep scratches, matching case component numbers, proper opening and closing, and a good glass crystal.

When you start adding defects, the value drops off rapidly as advanced collectoprs lose interest and you find yourself competing with scrappers.


Best Regards,

Ed
 
Posts: 6696 | Location: Southwestern Pennsylvania, USA | Registered: April 19, 2004
Picture of David Flegel
posted
Thanks Ed and Bila

Here is my follow up question.

As I am new to this, how does one know a RRG Case?
 
Posts: 1212 | Location: Ontario in Canada | Registered: February 06, 2012
IHC Life Member
Picture of David Abbe
posted
Answers for both questions:

1. Pricing Watch Cases, "Case Prices" Pages 44-45 in the Price guide is a good start.

2. RR Grade cases. Those with the "look" of RRG cases are pictured with their estimated value in the Watch Guide near the end of the sections pricing and describing Ball, Elgin, Hamilton, Illinois, etc.

In both cases (pun intended) these values are educated low ball estimates at this point in time(my opinion only).
 
Posts: 6492 | Location: Southern California in the USA | Registered: July 19, 2007
Picture of David Flegel
posted
Some more info on cases please.

Were the Hunter Cases and movements made with the lever in standard position, so that movements could be easily moved from one case to the other.
 
Posts: 1212 | Location: Ontario in Canada | Registered: February 06, 2012
Picture of Peter Kaszubski
posted
no some have lever at 4 o'clock some at 5 o'clock
some at 2 o'clock but lets here it for experts Smile
 
Posts: 4395 | Location: Arizona in the USA | Registered: July 23, 2011
Picture of David Flegel
posted
Peter, what I am talking about that if both lever on movement and lever cut on case are at say 5 should they not go together
 
Posts: 1212 | Location: Ontario in Canada | Registered: February 06, 2012
Picture of Peter Kaszubski
posted
ok got ya it will fit if lever is at 5 and case cut
at 5 .
 
Posts: 4395 | Location: Arizona in the USA | Registered: July 23, 2011
IHC Vice President
Pitfalls Moderator
IHC Life Member
Picture of Edward L. Parsons, Jr.
posted
Lever cuts are at different locations on different watches, so it's something you have to be careful about, especially on hunter cases, which have 2 lever cuts, one in the frame, and one in the bezel.

Don't buy a watch case with multiple lever cuts, that just kills the value. If you're shopping for a watch just to get the case for one of your higher grade watches, go after a pendant-set model, so there will be no "prior occupant" lever cut and your watchmaker can put in the new lever cut(s) whereever needed.


Best Regards,

Ed
 
Posts: 6696 | Location: Southwestern Pennsylvania, USA | Registered: April 19, 2004
IHC Life Member
Picture of Richard M. Jones
posted
David the price question is always interesting. For ordinary gold filled cases such as the mainliner/railroad in nice shape and with a good crystal !40-175 seems about right. Heavier coin silver hunters in nice condition and not too much wear are scarce and I think you could easily pay up to 250 for a nice one. In general I agree with Bila and fortunately have a stock of cases although I am running light on nice 16s open face lever cut. Another point I would not overlook is the thickness of the movement you are casing. Many of the earlier movements are thicker and for those Hampden collectors I recommend trying to stay with Dueber cases as they are more likely to fit Hampden movement.


Deacon
 
Posts: 1004 | Location: Omaha, Nebraska in the USA | Registered: February 14, 2009
posted
I find it difficult buy good quality American pocket watches in very good cases on this side of the pond. This early 21 jewel 1892 Vanguard in a Dueber coin silver hunter case is one of the better ones.

 
Posts: 134 | Location: Blackpool, England | Registered: February 04, 2010
posted
As is this Hamilton 946 in a Wadsworth Pilot 14K gold filled case.

 
Posts: 134 | Location: Blackpool, England | Registered: February 04, 2010
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