I've been collecting for about 15 years but I still don't know for sure what type of glass crystal to replace a plastic crystal with that would conform to the OEM glass that came from the factory on a RR watch, in order to keep the "authentic" look. Many seem to like the beveled look but was that type commonly produced as OEM crystals? It seems to me that a rather low dome and thinner glass than the beveled ones was the most common on the 16S RR watches like the 992B and the Bunn Specials, but I could be wrong...
Posts: 383 | Location: Northern Pennsylvania USA | Registered: April 04, 2007
Dennis, I think it's a matter of which style you like.I believe the original crystals on Hamilton and Bunn Special factory cases were called Mi-Chevee , they are a nice looking domed glass with a curved non-beveled edge.William White makes and installs the best watch crystals there is.He does outstanding work and is a pleasure to deal with!
Posts: 1323 | Location: Lebanon, Connecticut USA | Registered: March 28, 2008
From all that I have been able to learn over the years, mi-chevee or mi-emp crystals were pretty much standard issue for 16 size RR grade watches from about 1920 through 1960. "mi" is french for mid or medium and "chevee" loosely translated means shaped or sculpted. "emp" is short for empire and describes exactly the same profile: raised at the outer edge for tip of minute hand clearance but flattened towards the center to provide a low profile.
Through that same period of time, the heavier mi-concave crystals were the go-to replacements due to their greater availability as well as durability; mi-chevee glasses were relatively thin in comparison. As a consequence, it's pretty rare today to see an original mi-chevee crystal on a 50-80 year old RR watch.
I do make beautiful reproductions of these original crystals at my very small shop and they are quite elegant. They are made from very pure low iron 1.0mm glass supplied by both Electroverre in Switzerland and Schott in Germany. All of my empire glass crystals are properly annealed and plenty strong enough for daily pocket carry. They're also only $15!
In this image you can see the how the profile of the glass compliments a 16 size RR case quite nicely.
A slightly higher version is also available for the Hamilton Model 23 chronograph and 4992B variants which need a little extra room for the center sweep seconds. Same price.
