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Hello everyone; Well, it appears that after all the help I've received from this fantastic source of information, that I can finally contribute something to you folks. This is absolutely true because I've just tried it and it works great. First you need a product and it's called "Pre-Lim and it's a surface cleaner/stripper that you use prior to the Renaissance Wax. I have one can of this and a can of Renaisance Wax. They come together as a team and I use it on my very extensive gun collection instead of oil. All the major museums of the world use this stuff and it's the best. Anyway, I decided to try the surface cleaner on a watch crystal that was so bad you could hardly see though it. You rub it on like wax (pressing a little harder) and in about a minute you buff it off. The results are remarkable as you can see in the before and after photos. You can get Renaissance Wax just about anywhere but eBay's best I think. Why not give this a try on an old shabby crystal and see for yourself how well this works. I think you'll be very surprised. I couldn't believe it. I guess this is why the museums all use it for their armour displays etc. I've been using it on guns for over five years now and couldn't be happier. For example here's another comparison. | |||
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Hi Bud, Do you get this from a Canadian store, seeing as I am also in the frozen north. Bill | ||||
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Hi Bill; No, actually I got it from a gentleman on eBay and he's a terrific lad. Let me go and find his company name and I'll give it to you. Hang on a minute. Bud | ||||
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Ok Bill, here it is. His company name oneBay is art-acquisitions. If you search eBay for Renaissance Wax there are a number of dealers. Just look for his it's not far away. Hope you like it Bill, and I think it's a great product. They are pretty small cans (you can get larger though) but I can wax about fifty handguns with one small can. The come in two small 65mg cans. Bud | ||||
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Bud, Thanks, I'll give it a shot and let you know. Bill | ||||
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Great Bill, and don't forget, it also works great as a cleaner for other items as well. Anything you want to bring back the original shine to. Always test the Pre-Lim on something before doing it too as you never know. For example, I use ONLY the wax on my guns and not the pre-lim. Some blueing doesn't stand up to the pre-lim so I never use it on blued guns. The wax however, well THAT's a different story. Use that on just about anything and you'll be really surprised. Once you have a coat of the wax on an item, try to leave a fingerprint and see. Good luck Bud | ||||
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IHC Life Member Site Moderator |
Bud On firearms, are you just using it on the exterior or are you also coating the internals with it? Tom | |||
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Nice tip, is that a Mod 57? | ||||
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Site Administrator IHC Life Member |
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Bud, I have been using Renaissance wax for a few years on my SXS and O/U shotguns. Nice stuff and it protects very well. I have not heard of the Pre Lim though, might have to try it on a couple of crystals. | ||||
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Hi Ray. The top S&W is a Model 29 (Dirty Harry) with an 8 3/8 barrel, the S&W below is a Model 19-3. It sure looks like the old Model 27 though doesn't it? Tom, I use it only on the exterior as I use a special oil and grease for the moving parts. Anyway, sorry for talking about this topic here, I apologize. ============================================ Phil, yes, that's the right link. Glad you found it ok. Edward, great, then you already know of it's value. The pre-lim I only found out about last year and the strange thing is I can't understand why it doesn't cloud the crystal as you rub hard in a circular motion. It just doesn't. I would caution anyone going to use it on a crystal to try it on a NO VALUE scratched up crystal first. Just to be sure. Regards to all. Bud | ||||
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Hi BUd, I have tried this pre-lim and the rennasaince wax, haven't bought it myself, but a friend did. This is excellent stuff, my cases are like new, and for light scratching on the crystals seems to work well, the more you rub the brighter they become. Excellent product Thanks for referring us to it. Bill | ||||
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I wonder how this would work on a movement that has small scratches. Would it hurt the demasking? | ||||
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Hello Jim; That's something I haven't tried and if I'm correct, I beleive that Damaskeening is a type of controlled super fine scrathing in itself. It's done with very fine "stones" (perhaps even a superfine grit on a rubber mandril being spun at high speed). It's what we gunsmiths called "jewelling", such as the jewelling on a rifle bolt or barrel like this; I would certainly "test" the "Pre-Lim" on a an old worthless piece first. Bud
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Hi Bill; That's great and I'm glad you liked it. It is indeed a terrific product and if used properly can add years of life to just about anything. If you'll notice, that after applying a couple of layers of the wax, it's vry difficult to leave a fingerprint on the surface. I would have a gun without this on it. Here's what they say about Pre-Lim. "A mildly abrasive, creamy paste designed for non-scratch cleaning, stain removal and freshening of many surfaces, especially metals and enamels. In addition it can be used for china, feathering repairs to ceramics, air-brushed glazed surfaces and creates a fantastic "brushed finish" for metals (i.e. knife blades). PRE-LIM produces a brilliant silky, smooth finish. Pre-lim is widely used in the cleaning/burnishing of arms, armor, sculpture, ceramics and automobile paintwork. Formulated on blended Neuburg silica chalks in a water/white spirit emulsion, Pre-lim's cleaning action is achieved with extremely fine control using a soft rag and light pressure. After a few minutes of air-drying, the residual chalky deposit is easily rubbed away with a clean rag. Pre-lim is gently abrasive, providing a non-scratch cleaning method for metals and other sensitive surfaces. When stored in its air-tight container at room temperature or colder, Pre-lim has an excellent shelf life. To provide a long lasting and visually enhancing finish, after using Pre-lim it is recommended that Renaissance Wax be applied, especially on metals." Bud
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IHC Life Member |
Bud, Do these weapons get fired often or at all? I don't know that much about firearms but I'm guessing a .44 might generate a bit of heat when discharged and possibly mess up the finish as well as contaminate the internal parts. Is taking the gun to pieces and cleaning it a normal part of the experience for most collectors anyway? Do most collectors also shoot? In any case that Renaisance wax product gives a nice appearance to the steel and probably protects it as well. Just curious. William | |||
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Hi William; I don't shoot as much as I used to but almost all of my guns have been shot at one time or another during the last forty years. I have a few that I won't shoot such as an original (like new) 1860 Colt Army, and a couple of other rare pieces. I have about 60 handguns with a total value of about $95,000.00 With respect to the heat generated, these modern guns are built to withstand the heat as well as the pressure they build up up when firing. For example, the .44 Magnum you mentioned generates about 36000 pounds per sq. in. inside the chamber when fired. The heat has no effect on the finish because they cool off rather quickly. The internal parts do get dirty but as long as you wipe the outside down and give a good cleaning to the barrel and the chambers, the rest of the parts (internal as well) need not be looked at for longer periods. Now, with the self loaders such as the 1911, you may have to go a little further than the everyday field stripping if you fire a lot of rounds. These type of handguns tend to "gum up" more but then again there are more moving parts to clog up. Hope that answer your questions William. Bud
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IHC Life Member |
Bud you ever want to trade firearms for pocket watches l have pleny of watches but I love firearemsn let me know!!!!! I will make ir worth your time | |||
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