I am working on an Elgin s/n 388966 Movement which IS a first generation Lever set Non-Transitional BWR 15J Adj, HC in an 18K solid gold Drum Hunter Case made by Boston Watch Case Co.

Here is the "conundrum"
the "book" (all of them) say this is;
388966 388001 1000 1875 39* 14s h3g1k 13j ? 2566 of 3600 in grade; 7966 of 14s

I am in the middle of cleaning this, and can confirm that it is an 18s that has the very first generation planetary gear 25 pc lever setting design (weak but works) and a complete stopworks on the motor barrel.

I believe that it is a grade 20 which would be the very first completely non-key wind parts railroad grade. Also as it is very close to the 50 Pennsylvanias, I am guessing that it is a very rare post pennsy parts run.

I will show some pictures when it is done, but request anybody who has any knowledge of these or another of these in this S/N series to please come forward and comment.

It is finished as you can see below, there was a "1" hiding under the crud on the top plate so the s/n is 1388966

How complicated can you make a Lever setting mechanism? Stages of assembly . . . Thats right, an I.D. fine pitch planetary setting ring and micro tooth pinion on the cannon pinion!

Another interesting design detail is the wavy spring under the "figure 8" shaped winding wheel plate which by friction causes the plate to engage and "wind" by torquing the winding wheel via the winding stem pinion. i.e. the plate "rocks" into wind position when you turn the winding stem.

A beautiful original hand signed and ruled dial graced by Fleur de lis hands with a Geneva Stopworks mechanism made "whole" with the Help of the "key" part from good friend Paul in (no kiddin) Elgin Ill.

An extra fine "Drum style" case . . .

2 Ounce 18K case, Need we say more? . . .