I'm new to the forum, so if this has been posted before please bear with me. I've taken apart watches and cleaned them years ago. I'm self taught. My question is there a good and easy way to remove and handle the balance wheel. I've got a Howard 16 size that needs cleaning. I have already dis-assembled the gear train. Any help will be appreciated.
Andy

Here are my thoughts. The balance assembly (with balance cock) is the first thing that should be removed and the last thing that should be put back. With the balance in the watch while you are working on another area any misstep will break a balance staff. The cap and hole jewel in the balance cock has to come apart anyway to clean and examine the watch, so I'd rather get it out of the way and in a safe place. Once the balance assembly is out I separate the balance from the balance cock. Depending on the watch, sometimes I loosen the hairspring stud screw before removing the balance cock. Once the stud is out and the hairspring and balance are put aside, I tighten down the stud screw in the balance cock so it doesn't vibrate out in the ultrasonic. I remove the cap jewel and hole jewel from the balance cock and examine both. Clean them, place the proper type and amount of oil between the cap jewel and hole jewel and set the balance cock aside. The balance wheel is examined for missing or loose balance screws (don't tighten the timing screws if present!), the hairspring condition is checked and the staff pivots are cleaned and examined. The roller jewel is checked for any looseness or chips. After all is well with the balance and cock, I put them back together. Make sure the outer coil is between the regulator pins and the pins are in good condition and properly gaped. After removing and cleaning the cap and hole jewels on the plate for the balance, I put the balance assembly back on the plate without anything else attached to check for good balance motion in all positions. After this is good I move on to address the rest of the watch. I skipped a couple of steps, such as cleaning the plates before removing and cleaning the cap/hole jewels, but this wasn't meant to be a step by step tutorial. For that you won't find anything better than Chris Abell's Watch Service Checklist found HERE. I was going to give a quick answer but got carried away...sorry.

I understand what needs to be cleaned. What my question is what you do after you remove the screw from the balance bridge. Are the hair spring screws loosened from the bridge, or do you try and loosen them after the assembly is on your table? Are you to remover the bridge with the wheel? Is more safe to remove the bridge leaving the balance and hair spring?

Just to clarify...unless it has 2 screws, it is a cock, not a bridge. I believe the second sentence above answers your question..."The balance assembly (with balance cock) is the first thing that should be removed and the last thing that should be put back." I also explained that sometimes, depending on the watch I loosen the hairspring stud screw first before removing the balance cock. As far as one method being safer than the other, I believe it is more personal preference and the watch being worked on. My apologies for answering more than you asked.

No I'm very ignorant on all the terms. I just want to be able to remove and replace this balance with out any problems. I just was wondering if there is a specific way of doing it, or if I have to just do it the best way I can?

Andrew, After you unscrew the Balance cock screw;
(1) Lift the Balance cock enough so that you can also gently coax the Balance wheel to lift out with it.
(2) Use a Balance Tack to put them on.
(3) Then put them under glass to be ready for whatever comes next in their care.

WOW, I didn't think you could leave the balance dangle from the hair spring. Is it the same for a wrist watch.... smaller movement?

Its the same Andrew, should be okay as long as its covered like Dave shows. Otherwise, you run the risk of hitting and damaging it.

Thanks for the help. I,m going to give it a try in the next couple of days. I'm going from a day shift schedule to nights. I don't know how, and when my mind can do a job like this. I'm going to take it slow.

I also am having a time removing the dial. There are no screws that I can see for the pins. Is it just frictioned on? Is anyone familiar with a Howard?

Photos of what every problem you are trying to solve is always helpful. Just make sure you make them small enough so the can be posted on IHC. Some 12sz howard did have a snap fit. I don't remember any 16sz howard that where snap fit dials.

Some of the 16s Howard's did have snap on dials, I can't remember the details of when it changed but I have a 2 16s RR Chronometers, one with dial screws & one snap on.

Tom

Andrew, everyone has different ideas on how to handel the balance wheel. I follow Rogers way mostly. I have been told by my watchmaker that you can dangel the wheel on a 16 size with no problems, but 18 size and over he doesn't reccomend it. The other one you have to be VERY carefull with is the ELINVAR hairspring. They are very sensitive, and will bend very easy, so I don't do that with them.

Regards,
Larry

In referring to 16S Howards, and all other 12, 16, 18s American made watches the method I use indicates many things about the condition of the spring.

I would not recommend this ever for the Swiss movement as they are much more lightly "sprung" than ours and the springs have the "robustness" of "linp Spaghetti". Same goes for small Wristwatches.

I think this Howard does have a snap on dial. I would love to post some pictures, but my DSLR makes the files very large and I don't have software right now to resize them. Anyway, a hair spring that is to delecate to dangle has to be removed from the balance cock before removing from the watch?

yes, and for your re-sizing, download the free "picasa" program and practice, it is wonderful.

https://ihc185.infopop.cc/eve/f...56029761/m/380108351

http://picasa.google.com/index.html

quote:

I would not recommend this ever for the Swiss movement as they are much more lightly "sprung"

I removed the balance assembly by making sure the balance pivot was out of the cock. I grabbed the whole thing and lifted. I tryed doing it by "dangling it" and the spring is just to light.

Everything is re-assembled. The balance I thought was "clean enough". Its not. So now I removed the hair spring from the balance cock. Oh I want to mention I went to William S. McCaws For cleaner, peg wood, and watch oil.
www.mccawcompany.com

As Rodger says above, once movement out, dial removed and in the holder I will often loosen the stud screw, on some its possible to free the stud from the balance cock a little so it drops free or can be eased out as you lift the cock leaving the balance sat in the movement, WW of course often have a Swiss key to deal with and a much softer hairspring so require a different approach, on occasion I will use two pairs of tweezers (brass) and hold the cock with one and balance with other, if you stretch or distort the overcoil or hairspring you have more work to repeat so a little extra time is well spent at this stage, I know some WW you will not get the away with dangling the balance complete without damaging the hairspring and must be supported at all times when connected. When loosening the stud screw with the balance cock still screwed in place I make sure I have my 2nd and 3rd fingers firmly against the movement holder should the screwdriver slip its not going to slip into the hairspring and kept in complete control.

I agree completely with Chris. When taking a watch down for inspection and cleaning, I loosen the Hairspring Stud screw and actually poke the stud down about 1/2mm so that when I lift the Balance cock, I have a fighting chance to gently release the Wheel completely from the cock before lifting it from the watch.

However, this ONLY works on US-made watches with regulator pins lightly touching the hairspring, not locked to it.

AND this WILL NOT work on Swiss watches with weak hairsprings that are permanently attached to the Balance Cock, and/or "hooked up" with retainer type regulator pin set.

Question? How do you guys lube the balance. The oiler I have will soak the pivots.

Select the smallest oiler you can find ....usually the black handled. Dip it and apply the oil to the rim of the oil bottle then take a very little bit of this oil on the tip of the oiler apply this to the end stone before you install the endstone.....The capillary action of the pivot will draw this into the hole jewel..

Regards, John

Finished and runs great.

Very nice face