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Hello. My lever set will move the hands but the hands can only move counter clockwise? I am able to do some repairs, but I would like an explanation about what to look for? All I have done is try to nudge the escape wheel, but it is locked. And I let down the main spring. Regards james | |||
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Let me back up , I assumed you have an 18s Illinois ,could we get the serial or some pictures ? Your second problem is the escape wheel (balance ) seems locked , this sounds like it is "overbanked" let me see if I can get some info on that , or maybe someone else will jump in https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wmk2mA6dg3o | ||||
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IHC Member 1338 |
James; You could very easily make the problem worse working on it yourself with no knowledge whatsoever of what you're doing...a lot of guys have done that then regretted it later after they had to spend even more money to fix what they messed up. If you're unsure how to fix send it to a skilled watchmaker and let him solve the problem or you could easily spend $50 trying to solve a $20 problem. We're not talking a lot of money to fix, CLICK: there are several competent IHC Member watchmakers. If you'll spend $12 and join us, I guarantee it'll be the best $12 you ever spent. Just my 2 cents. | |||
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Well it indeed is a 16s. What I found was the hands do not move smooth and easy. It requires so much torque at the crown and stem connection that the crown just unscrews off the stem. I took out the movement and toghtened it up good. Sure enough the hands do go both ways but my sense says, if the hands do not move easy, the the gear train is not smooth and easy and the watch can’t run properly. When I moved the hands clockwise the watch began to run. But stopped again, so it needs a good tear down, cleaning and oiling. I do not know how long the watch was made to run ‘backwards’ as the second hands keeps moving when the lever is out. So, setting the time was forcing the drive forward, back in reverse. What damage could that also have caused? For now I figure if the train movement is made smooth and easy with a complete tear down and service, I hope no other things have been thrown into the needs for parts or readjustment. What would be the weak link, running a watch against the ‘motor’ so I can do the necessary trouble shooting? | ||||
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Hi James it does sound like it needs a good service to start , maybe the cannon pinion is siezing . You cannot buy the screwdrivers and oil for what they charge to service it . | ||||
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I will be sure to realize the benefits of a cleaning. I bought a boat load of the various tools, and have a staking set also. When I fixed the loose crown and got the movement out I found a tension type washer under the crown. I think it is supposed to be compressed and inserted where the sleeve is inside the pendant. As is I find that I can not lift the crown that single click, so the moveent falls easily away into the fron bezel. When I installed the stem up through the bottom side, I held the swuare winder portion and tightned the crown. It was difficult to line up the stem into the movement to seat it into the case. I just reinstalled the washer part under the crown where it was. My question is this. If someone knows what needs to happen for the crown to go one click up, will this washer down into the area of the sleeve make that happen? I have seen where people had difficulty pulling on the crown to raise it, on lever set watches. Many wonkt try to force it. Advise is given to drop oil into the sleeve to make it free the stem movement. I have another Bunn Special Model 14 1927 with similar case type, and the crown does lift without much effort. This watch is 1913 Mdl 9 and I have been told it is in the first style case. A nice two tone. White 14kt with frame of 10kt. I want to put this washer back where it belongs, I don’t know how far in it should go, and whether it is involved in making the stem clear the movement from the case, by pulling on the crown. As an aside, the Illinois Bunn Special has a double roller, does this then say there are two roller jewels? What is the function of a double roller vs. a single? I understand the impulse pin, pallet jewels, and escape wheel relationships. Whats going on with the second roller table? ThankYou for the help. James | ||||
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IHC Life Member |
James, Where in NY are you located? I am in Ticonderoga and would be happy to see if I can give a few pointers. Roger | |||
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Thanx. Near Rochester Farxaway from Essex Area of NY. I play chess, do You? | ||||
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IHC Life Member |
Yes, but not for quite awhile. No time for it now. Too busy. | |||
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Administrative Assistant |
Welcome Aboard James! Before we go any further, please provide the MOVEMENT NUMBER, makers name and jewel count (if marked) for any and all watches you need help with. Also, with any marked as "BUNN SPECIAL" CASE, the CASE NUMBER from inside the case-back would be needed. On ANY pocket watch case, always check to see that the case number (at least the LAST four or five digits) appear on both the frame and bezel as well. Watch collecting is a complicated hobby but as you are experiencing we are always here to help. Check out our Technical Section and especially John D. Duvall's "HELPING HAND TUTORIALS" for more. Debbie Dr. Deborah L. Irvine IHC Administrative Assistant Membership and Marts Coordinator Contact eMail: ihc185@roadrunner.com | |||
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Sorry, I figured these cases were found on Hamilton and Illinois PW that’s why I used the word General. I am disappointed because what I thought was a nice Green Gold / White Gold tu tone case is a Franken. The watch has an after mrkt dial, both bezels are from other watches. Niether number to the frame, which could be 10kt and not ‘green’ either. Got a nice movement it’s single signed Sixty Hour, #4996816 from 1927 and Ray Pattern. Nothing ‘rare’. Except the showboat case! And the back is a bi*#@ to get on too. Sooooo, I may keep my hopes up for a great case that someone thinks parting out will bring more money..... AND go back to a correct dial. This one is signed, montgomery, and arrows out. My first Bunn, and boy have I learned a lot! | ||||
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The case of the mixed up case , Roger just sold a case here for 60 dollars yesterday , you have to be quick on the watch sales , I check twice a day and still miss out ! The nice thing about buying here is we are a small group and you can't get away with that nonsense , tell you what, sell your watch here at best offer and look for a Bunn from Tom Dunn or Bila or a couple other sellers here | ||||
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IHC President Life Member |
(Apparently Kevin and I were writing at the same time, he always has an interesting and worthwhile perspective.) All is not lost James, That should be a 21-Jewel "Type III-A" from as you discerned 1927 production. Prior to 1930 the 21-Jewel Bunn Special was available to retail jewelers un-cased as well as cased from the factory. That should be good news to you meaning a generic case would be fine, best if it has Illinois case-screw marks to lend an air of correctness and plausible originality. Looks like Debbie left some "homework" for you and you have already learned a valuable lesson. (Follow those two links as they are important.) What you were sold was what I call a "put-together" watch, many of those are a compilation of left-overs, perhaps an "eBay Special" and what is often the most "special" part is an over-blown description. Debbie is also right in pointing out the fact this is a complicated hobby, it takes a while to learn, use the "Find-Or-Search" tabs at the upper-left of our Main Page and look-up unfamiliar terms. For example, the "Montgomery Dials" were among those patented by Henry S. Montgomery, Chief Time Inspector for the Santa-Fe Railroad, they are a favorite with collectors. Read-up on him, like Webb C. Ball he is an interesting character and an important piece of the puzzle we are putting together here. The first textbook in this course is the "Complete Guide to Watches" and IHC is the classroom. Study the watch guide from front to back, use "post-it notes" to tab important areas for future reference. You are beginning a fun-filled journey! Be well my friend, Lindell | |||
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Thanks Guys and Gal ! I plan to acquire the Guide Book from here. I feel I need to keep this compilation watch as it was my first Bunny, how they do multiply, and with any other Bunny...LOL I will strive to find a proper case. Whether it will be a tru tu tone? When this watch arrived the case colors were good looking. 1927 was the Year for this watch. I hope to find a green gold or tu tone dwn the line. My ebay experience is mixed. Got this guy AND a good clean 1913 movement in a salesman Illinois Watch Co. Coin edge case. An early fishscale from the first run. Not many were made. Ser. 2576642. So one not so good, one good. Even record! | ||||
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