My thanks to all of those who shared their knowledge. If possible, can broad dollar categories be provided for the watches named (like $150 - $300)? Such categories would help those of us who do not know the field as well to financially establish what is, or is not, within the range of one's personal collecting. Prices fluxuate and persons can not be held to that which they said even a month ago, but broad price categories would help. Thanks for any help that anyone can provide.

On twelve-size watches, in particular because they have not really caught on until recently, prices are quite variable for any model and will depend on condition, scarcity, case material, styling, vintage AND who wants the watch at that particular time! Condition, scarcity and case material require no explanation. However, there can be considerable variability based on the other factors. The Hamilton grade 400, for instance, was first sold in FOUR STYLES, all solid gold, and these generally used the earlier version of the movement and are less common. Later Hamilton cased the bulk of the 400 movements (mostly the later movement style) in gold-filled cases for service awards. These differences are cause for a significant price difference today. The Elgin Hulburd, also, saw a progression from unique carved or enameled case and dial combinations to relatively plain non-unique versions -- again a very significant value difference today. Waltham, even within their Riverside Maximus line continually cheapened the finish and details through the years, so that the later ones (IMHO) are not worth what the earlier ones are. Other watches, not on the TOP TEN LIST will vary considerably based on outward appeal, as you are competing with people who just want a good-looking watch to wear. I would not want to attempt a price range on any of the individual models because a stated range could still be off and cause one to pay too much or pass up a good deal. [sorry for the cop-out]

Mark,

I would recommend, depending on how well you know how to do searches, to do some research on (fl)(trash) Ebay. It's very easy to determine what's in the price range... depending on if you're going to collect a company, a size, or just certain watches. It's very easy to collect 12s South Bends, and it's very easy to collect 12s Hamiltons! It's very hard to collect 12s New York Standards. Fact is, 12s is out of fashion because it was never RR approved. Also, fact is, there are many if not as many 12s watches still around that would have been RR approved except they were pendant set. Personally, I like pendant set. Lever set is actually better for the watchmaker ever so slightly (which I am) but not as good for the user (which I am). No watch that I've had keeps perfect time except a Breitling SuperQuartz (UGH!) and a Pulsar RR Approved, so you have to periodically adjust it, and pendant set is inargueably easier. Also, I have to agree with everything the Tree Man said above, but he's getting a little above beginner level (and I admit I am a beginner and probably always will be, so disregard everything I've said above). So have fun!

Best regards,

Frank "407" Kusumoto

Hi to 12S'ers
Your enthusiasm and passion for these watches has led me astray!
I've just picked up a nice Hamilton 900 for what I think is reasonable - $280 in a good 14K case. Did I do wrong? - I don't believe the quality you can get in this size for not too much money!
Regards to all
Ray

Jerry and Frank;
You did not cop-out by not naming prices, but instead you opened my eyes to a new angle. The variations on a theme aspect makes broad price categories impractical if not totally misleading. I, like you Frank, prefer pendant setting (so do my 'rebellious' hands)! Thanks for your help.