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How do you spot a repro dial? "Click" to Login or Register 
IHC Member 302
posted
Here is a question for all you faux spotters:

I recently acquired a beautiful Hamilton 924 pocket watch in excellent condition. After some reflection I now suspect the dial is a reproduction. I have never seen a reproduction dial (other than advertisements for them) so I’m really not sure how good they are. Here is what bothers me about the dial.

The second hand dial is not double sunk. There is a slight depression in the porcelain, with the numbers in the recession, but it is all one piece. Not at all like the typical sub dial attached to the back of the main dial. The porcelain looks thicker than a typical dial from this era (1917). The center hole has a relatively large radius around it. It doesn’t look like the typical machined through hole with a well defined chamfer.

Can anyone tell me a definitive way to tell a repo from an authentic dial? I haven’t removed the dial yet, is there a way to tell by looking at the back of the dial? I can send a picture, but I’m not sure a photo will show enough detail.

I look forward to your comments.
 
Posts: 62 | Location: Cochranville, Pennsylvania USA | Registered: November 20, 2003
posted
Hi Jon,

The only way to tell without removing the dial is, practice, practice,practice. You will start to recongize them with experience. After looking at hundreds of dials you will be able to spot a repo dial without any problem.

So the answer to your question is study and experience.

Some things to help you out would be the most obvious, the finish. Repo dial are unually painted. They are getting better results with expoxy finishes etc. but paint is paint. Porcelain enamel is a baked on and it has a glass finish. This would be hard to see on a internet picture, so you should ask the seller.
Another way to spot a repo is if the dial is double sunk the area on the two surfaces is not a sharpe line, but rather a smooth transistion.

This one is harder to tell because they used a resin finish to make it look shiny but the script also is bad.

Welcome to Chapter 185. We are a friendly group and will help you if we can. There is no such thing as silly question.
 
Posts: 508 | Registered: January 11, 2003
Picture of R. J. Lucke
posted
Jon,

Based on your description of the seconds bit, I would suspect that the dial you have is most likely a reproduction. This could be easily verified if you could post a scan or picture of the dial.

Rhett


Rhett Lucke

 
Posts: 229 | Location: Nebraska in the U.S.A. | Registered: November 24, 2002
IHC Member 302
posted
Jim,

It looks a lot like mine, but mine has a cleaner color. Even without the discoloration around the edges, the other features are enough to make me pretty sure it’s a repo. I’ll probably see the gentleman I bought the watch from next weekend. I’ll ask for a refund or an exchange. I don’t think he knew it was a repo. I’ll let you know how I make out.

Thanks,
Jon
 
Posts: 62 | Location: Cochranville, Pennsylvania USA | Registered: November 20, 2003
posted
jon,
can you remove the dial? (sorry, i do not know your level of expertise)

many of these later reproductions have a metal back and have 'swiss' stamped on the plate...

as Jim says, it does take practice..... and is better done in person, not by images......
 
Posts: 1496 | Registered: November 20, 2002
Picture of Sheila Gilbert
posted
Jim,
Perfect explanation, thank you.
Now I'm SURE that some of the Fancy Dials that I have been looking at are fakes. I had noticed exactly what you mentioned, that there is not a clean distinction between the seconds and minute dials. Not crisp, just kinda wavy from one to the other. It didn't look right. Too many of them look too pristine lately so I started to look a lot closer.
Almost makes you want one with a crack in it huh? Thanks again for a great answer to Jon's question, helped me a lot.

Jon, thank you for the question, seems to be a big issue these days.

As for me, I'll take mine with one small crack please! lolol


Sheila
 
Posts: 3094 | Location: La Plata, Maryland U.S.A. | Registered: May 22, 2004
IHC Member 274
Life Member 27
Picture of Jack Goldstein
posted
Jon, if you just stick with what Jim Haney said in this one line
"Another way to spot a repo is if the dial is double sunk the area on the two surfaces is not a sharpe line (or cut), but rather a smooth transition."
This will work 99% of the time, and the rest will come with experience.
Welcome aboard


Jack E. Goldstein
 
Posts: 465 | Location: Tontitown, Arkansas USA | Registered: July 25, 2003
IHC President
Life Member
Picture of Lindell V. Riddle
posted

Sheila,

The "Fancy Dials" with all the color variations and such were often made either as Single-Sunk or even as one piece dials. Many of the very best were made in Switzerland for the U.S watch companies. For those reasons, the criteria we use on white dials and particularly Double-Sunk RR Watch Dials may not apply to the fancier, more colorful ones.

Jon,

My opinion is in accord with that of Jim, Rhett and Terry above. We have gotten into this subject a number of times. With so many redone, reproduction, replacement and downright fake dials around it's sometimes difficult to pick out the differences. "Repo-Man" may find this complicated, but in time experience will teach you to judge these dials at a glance. I'll post several examples and try and help you and hopefully others with understanding this better.


Below, nice 16-size replacement dial currently offered by S. LaRose...


 
Posts: 10553 | Location: Northeastern Ohio in the USA | Registered: November 19, 2002
IHC President
Life Member
Picture of Lindell V. Riddle
posted

Now, scroll back and forth between the LaRose Replacement and the real thing. Notice the sharp distinction on the three different levels of a genuine double-sunk dial. As Jim Haney correctly pointed out, there is also a huge difference between the "dead" look of a painted dial as you see above and the vibrant beauty of an original porcelain dial such as you see in the image below.


Below, here's a genuine Hamilton three-piece porcelain-enamel dial...


 
Posts: 10553 | Location: Northeastern Ohio in the USA | Registered: November 19, 2002
IHC President
Life Member
Picture of Lindell V. Riddle
posted

The closer you look at the ORIGINAL PORCELAIN DIAL on the left and the REPRODUCTION PAINTED DIAL on the right the more apparent the differences will be. The dials like you see on the right are offered by S. LaRose Inc.
http://www.slarose.com/ or 1-888-537-4513 at very reasonable prices. They are a fine value and great for a "daily carry" watch in order to avoid damage to an original dial.


In this image, the genuine article shown on left is clearly superior...


 
Posts: 10553 | Location: Northeastern Ohio in the USA | Registered: November 19, 2002
IHC President
Life Member
Picture of Lindell V. Riddle
posted

Now we are looking at the edge of both dials. The method of construction is readily apparent. You can see on the left, porcelain is fired onto both sides of a copper core. On the right, a metal disc with heavily painted surface. On Lever-Set watches, look in at the lever slot and you'll pick out these same details.


Check the edge of both carefully, they are obviously very different...


 
Posts: 10553 | Location: Northeastern Ohio in the USA | Registered: November 19, 2002
IHC President
Life Member
Picture of Lindell V. Riddle
posted

Finally, we turn the dials over and see more differences. The genuine Double-Sunk Porcelain Dial is soldered together from three individually crafted pieces. The reproduction dial on the right is clearly made in one piece using far simpler methods.


From the back all doubt is dispelled about which is the real deal dial...


 
Posts: 10553 | Location: Northeastern Ohio in the USA | Registered: November 19, 2002
Picture of Sheila Gilbert
posted
Lindell,
I came back in here for JUST THIS REASON! I started checking my watches and YEP there it was, no sharp distinction on watches I know are original. lolol I got to thinking, the only ones I have that are like that, are the Fancy Face watches, and then realized it probably was different, and needed to ask you if there could be a difference, but then I looked at the side and DID see that small amount of metal on the edge and knew that it must be porcelain. Had to ask, and HERE IT IS, LISTED FOR ME IN PERFECT FORM!!!! You are great! Thank you, this is a wonderful explanation, and perfect pictures.

THANK YOU


Sheila
 
Posts: 3094 | Location: La Plata, Maryland U.S.A. | Registered: May 22, 2004
posted
Sheila, Many of the fancy dials that you will see were aftermarket dials that were supplied to jewelers to be placed on watches at the buyer's request. Some were American made and some were Swiss. So--just because a fancy dial is Swiss, does not mean that it is always a repro dial. It may have been original to the watch when it was sold.
Tom
 
Posts: 1060 | Registered: March 10, 2003
IHC President
Life Member
Picture of Lindell V. Riddle
posted

Thanks Tom,

I did explain the "Swiss Connection" on fancy dials at the beginning of my postings.

Sheila,

Thanks so very much for the kind words. There's considerable effort in putting something like that together, but your appreciation makes it all worthwhile.

Lindell

Wink
 
Posts: 10553 | Location: Northeastern Ohio in the USA | Registered: November 19, 2002
Picture of Brian C.
posted
Please let me add, very nice job Lindell.
Brian C.
 
Posts: 1857 | Location: Epsom, New Hampshire USA | Registered: December 14, 2002
posted
Lindell,

How true the saying "A picture is worth a thousand words". I could write and describe all day and couldn't get the point across as well as your pictures.

Thank you so much for taking the time to take off the dials and photographing them. Now we will have this information for future use at the touch of a finger. You do so much to keep this board heads and shoulders above anything else.
 
Posts: 508 | Registered: January 11, 2003
posted
Just to add my two cents worth, here is a melamine Canadian dial that a friend insisted on putting on his 4992B. Probably not appropriate, but note how similar this is to a replacement dial.

 
Posts: 30 | Location: North Salt Lake, Utah U S A | Registered: February 05, 2003
posted
Melamine dial front

 
Posts: 30 | Location: North Salt Lake, Utah U S A | Registered: February 05, 2003
IHC Member 274
Life Member 27
Picture of Jack Goldstein
posted
Lindell, your description could be a chapter in the book of "Watch Truths"


Jack E. Goldstein
 
Posts: 465 | Location: Tontitown, Arkansas USA | Registered: July 25, 2003
IHC President
Life Member
Picture of Lindell V. Riddle
posted

Thanks Jack,

Charlie's melamine pictures added another important facet to a worthwhile instructional project.

Thank you Charlie!

Lindell

Wink
 
Posts: 10553 | Location: Northeastern Ohio in the USA | Registered: November 19, 2002
IHC Member 302
posted
I want thank everyone who has taken the time to reply to my question. Especially Lindell’s detailed set of pictures showing the difference between a nice reproduction versus an original. Lindell even spent some time with me on the phone going over this and other issues with buying watches. I really appreciate the time and learned a lot from his mentoring. This has been great fun, as well as being very helpful.

Charles, thanks for posting the pictures of the melamine dials, Lindell mentioned them too. I think I have seen them, but wasn’t aware of what I was looking at.

Glyn, thanks for diplomatically pointing out I still kan’t spell. My boss always told me I’d have a great future if I could only spell the King’s English. I don’t believe him.

As for the watch that triggered the question, I talked to the gentleman I bought it from and he offered another watch (of my choosing) or a refund. I ended up taking a little of both. I traded for a 992 (with original dial) and some cash back. He was very nice about it.

I got out of this one OK, but there is nothing like doing a little research before you buy! This web site is a great resource, and entertaining at the same time.

Thanks again to everyone,
Jon
 
Posts: 62 | Location: Cochranville, Pennsylvania USA | Registered: November 20, 2003
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