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Lead arbors/wheels "Click" to Login or Register 
Picture of Greg Reeves
posted
I have had come in the other day an alarm clock with the arbors and wheels "attached" with lead. On one of the wheels the "lantern pinion" is spinning. Can this be "soldered" back together? Or what would be the proper way to repair this?

greg

 
Posts: 497 | Location: Genoa, New York U.S.A. | Registered: November 06, 2003
posted
Put a dab of Loc-Tite #620 retaining compound on your arbor and slide the Lantern pinion back in place.Wait about fifteen minutes and believe me,it's there to stay.If you need to remove the pinion down the road just apply some quick torch heat to the pinion.it'll loosen right up.
Loc-tite #620 is an adhesive for cylindrical shafts without threads as opposed to the thread locker Loc-tite most folks are familiar with.It's good stuff.I use it to secure those pesty countwheel drive gears that won't stay tight and also to secure lantern pinions such as is your problem.
Respectfully,Bob Fullerton
 
Posts: 181 | Location: New Castle, Delaware U.S.A. | Registered: December 15, 2004
Picture of Greg Reeves
posted
Thanks...I'll give it a try!
 
Posts: 497 | Location: Genoa, New York U.S.A. | Registered: November 06, 2003
Picture of Greg Reeves
posted
WOW! That was a lot easier than what I had in mind!!

"I use it to secure those pesty countwheel drive gears that won't stay tight" I can't picture this...what are you talking about?

Many Thanks
greg
 
Posts: 497 | Location: Genoa, New York U.S.A. | Registered: November 06, 2003
posted
quote:
Loc-Tite #620


Hi Robert,
I have never used Loc-Tite #620. How good is it? I have to replace the pallet surfaces on an English Fusee clock. In the past I used a mainspring from a watch and soldered it on. I wonder if the Loc-Tite #620 would hold up for this use. What do you recommend?

Kind regards,

Bob
 
Posts: 130 | Location: Fredericksburg, Texas U.S.A. | Registered: September 25, 2004
posted
Loc-tite #620 is good stuff Bob but I certainly wouldn't use it or any other liquid adhesive to retain a pc. of mainspring to any pallet.First of all that particular adhesive works best in a compressive state,that is for instance a pinion on an arbor or any type of sleeve fit.It really not made for laminate type adhering like Elmer's Glue,Epoxies,or glues similar to that.Second of all and it's probably just me I wouldn't trust any chemical adhesive to bond the mainspring pc. to the pallet face.I like a mechanical bond such as soldering or as one of the sharpies on the Green Board who does horological machining recommended,cut a dovetail in the pallet face and slide your new face with the male dovetail into the existing pallet.Of course this requires some serious shop equipment so I would say your way is basically the way 90% of the folks who repair clocks also do it,me included.
I would certainly recommend you get yourself a bottle of #620.It's great as a sleeve lock.I bought my bottle at M.S.C. Supply.They're on the internet.
Respectfully,Bob Fullerton
 
Posts: 181 | Location: New Castle, Delaware U.S.A. | Registered: December 15, 2004
posted
What I was referring to Greg was the countwheel drive gear located beneath the second wheel.On some of the older movements over a period of time I have found that the drive gear becomes loose on the arbor and in turn it won't drive the countwheel properly,kinda spins on the arbor so to speak.There again I just put a very small dab of #620 on the inner portion of the drive gear and slide it back in place,problem resolved.
One thing I would mention is to wipe off your mating parts with a little bit of acetone to insure a clean bonding surface,that's especially what I do when I'm repivoting an arbor I take a stick of sharpened pegwood with some Acetone on it and clean all the oil out of the new hole and I also wipe off the replacement plug with Acetone before I slide the new pivot in the hole.I use the same pegwood to add a drop of #620 to the hole before insertion.I would also recommend tapering the end of your new pivot before inserting it for added gripping strength.Some folks disburse with the adhesion portion of repivoting.Personally I like to put a dab of #620 in the hole,but thats me.As a matter of fact some of the oldtimers like to put some spit on their fingers and add a touch of Rottenstone to the spit and then smear that around the tapered portion before they insert the plug.In their experiences they have found that the Rottenstone particles seem to wedge between the new plug and the inside wall for extra bonding strength.Whatever works for you is good I guess.
Respectfully,Bob Fullerton
 
Posts: 181 | Location: New Castle, Delaware U.S.A. | Registered: December 15, 2004
Picture of Greg Reeves
posted
Ah, now I see...thanks
 
Posts: 497 | Location: Genoa, New York U.S.A. | Registered: November 06, 2003
posted
Thanks Robert for all the information. I'm always ready to try something "new".

Regards,

Bob
 
Posts: 130 | Location: Fredericksburg, Texas U.S.A. | Registered: September 25, 2004
posted
You're welcome,Bob and Greg.
Respectfully,Bob Fullerton
 
Posts: 181 | Location: New Castle, Delaware U.S.A. | Registered: December 15, 2004
Picture of Greg Reeves
posted
uh oh! Failure! Confused
 
Posts: 497 | Location: Genoa, New York U.S.A. | Registered: November 06, 2003
posted
I've never had a problem with Loc-tite #620 Greg.Loc-Tite #620 is an industrial adhesive well up to the job of securing Lantern Pinions.I would just remind you that your mating parts have to be absolutely clean.That would encompass cleaning the arbor with #1000 grit and acetone and pegging out the Lantern Pinion with Acetone also.Don't be frugal with the Loc-Tite application,you can always wipe off the excess.I'm sorry to hear about your problem.Why don't you pull your assembly apart,clean it up and give it another shot.I can only tell you that product has never failed me yet.I use it on repivoting,countwheel drive gears,and the ocassional loose Lantern Pinion.
Respectfully,Bob Fullerton
 
Posts: 181 | Location: New Castle, Delaware U.S.A. | Registered: December 15, 2004
Picture of Greg Reeves
posted
Ah, I was thinking about that...I did not clean the parts...other than the usual clock cleaning. I used alcohol, but will take it apart again and do it right. How about a little abrading around the arbor where the pieces fit?
 
Posts: 497 | Location: Genoa, New York U.S.A. | Registered: November 06, 2003
posted
I usually clean and scuff my arbors with #1000 grit wet-sand Greg.I just remove the scale,nothing heavy handed.After that I wipe the arbor off with Acetone to remove any residual oils.Personally I don't think alcohol has enough cleansing properties for oil removal,my own humble opinion.As I stated in my previous post don't be apprehensive about putting too much #620 on your assembly,you can always wipe off the excess.One more thing,if you're not in any hurry to get your movement back together let the Loc-Tite cure a little longer.That way you can be sure that it has had plenty of time to set.Good luck with your repair.
Respectfully,Bob Fullerton
 
Posts: 181 | Location: New Castle, Delaware U.S.A. | Registered: December 15, 2004
posted
Try the Trantiques.com website Kev,they carry ever type of clock book you can think of,new and used.I can't say they will have what you're looking for but it wouldn't hurt to look.
Respectfully,Bob Fullerton
 
Posts: 181 | Location: New Castle, Delaware U.S.A. | Registered: December 15, 2004
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