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I own several 223's, 229's, 323's, 328's, and 329's. I'm in the process of upgrading a number of them in terms of looking for better dials and nicer cases.
In particular, how do I know if an 18s South Bend dial will work on my 32X's or a 16s dial will work on my 22X's? If I find a great dial on a lower grade 18s or 16s South Bend, are dials fully interchangeable from one grade to another?
If I'm looking for a hunter case for a 328, what are the specifics I need to know other than buying what I consider to be a nice 18s hunter case to swap out(same thing on the rest of my open face Studebakers).
Thanks for any info you may be able to provide.
All 16-size and 18-size South-Bend dials can be physically interchanged on both Open-Face and Hunter-Case models. Not all dials are appropriate for all models and consideration should be given to time-period correctness as well as what styles might go with each combination.
Personally, the term "swap-out" makes me uneasy and I must also point out that cases must often be very carefully "fit" to a particular movement.
It's great to see you posting Lindell, Glad your back!!!
|IHC Life Member
Sounds interesting. Will you let us in your grading system for the dial hierarchies?
Hi: I'm new to this club. I have been collecting South Bend watches for some time. I din't know about your club and web page until just recently. I have been reading all the posts with great interest. But I am getting a little confused. First I learned that I should never buy a South Bend at an on-line auction. Then if the watch has a replacement dial it is wrong. If it has an aftermarket dial it is wrong. If it has a restored or reproduced dial it is wrong. So here is my question, What are we supposed to do to make our tired old watches look better? I don't think I am any different than others. I think we all like nice dials and good working movements. But, if we all follow all of the advice and comments from the experts then we are doomed to have good running watches with mundane dials.
Ernie-That's a good question, and as a newer member myself I've had some of those same problems.
There are ways to get original,time era correct dials. But I'm not sure what you are really trying to do-is your watch one that you will be carrying, or is it part of a collection that you wish to improve?
A carrying watch can have a reproduced or restored or even time era incorrect dial and be just fine - if you like the way it looks! But many people want all original parts in a watch that they are collecting to make it as authentic as possible.
I don't collect South Bend-but many people here do. And many auctions-ebay included-are fine;but you do have to be careful.
People here live to help new guys-you'll see for yourself!
Welcome Aboard Ernie!
Since dials are easily changed and often are they tend to get moved around over the years.
A good place to begin is with reference to a specific watch, we will need a movement number and at least one image of how it is presently configured. Here is information on posting images...
HELP IN POSTING IMAGES FOR HOSTING ON OUR DISCUSSION SITE
Check over some of the catalogs and literature here...
South-Bend Catalogs, Literature & Pictorials
The more desirable South-Bend dials are getting scarce but we'll try to help you.
Thanks for the answers. I have 59 South Bend watches currently in my collection. I don't carry any of them at any time except for special occasions. I usually show my 229 at Studebaker Drivers Club events and have won several trophies with it. It has a Studebaker dial on it but I am happy with it even though I know it is wrong. I have a 227 also with a Studebaker dial.I would like to change the 227 back to a South Bend dial. The serial number 1131684 indicated that it was made in 1926. I believe it should have a montgomery dial. Is that correct? Should South Bend be block or script? If script should it slant forward or backward? Should the dial be Porcelain or painted metal?
I also have several porcelain dials with big chips. Id there a fix with out replacing the dial?
Thanks for your help/
Your late 227 from the 1920s could have come with a painted metal or porcelain-enamel South-Bend block letter signature dial. It could be either marginal-minute or more commonly heavy arabic numerals with plain five minute markers. Script signature dials were much earlier.
Choice of RR Dials on Page 15 of the 1925 South-Bend catalog...
Thanks Lindell, there is so much to learn. Before I found this club I thought I knew alot. In reality what I knew is very limited but, I am learning something new every day. Ernie
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