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is there a right way and a wrong way ? "Click" to Login or Register 
posted
I got brave today and did something i have not done before, .I removed the balance wheel from the cock.I know most people this is ordinary stuff, but i am new at this.I was wondering since it had a srewed down jewel on top, could i have just removed the jewel and cleaned and oiled it or better and maybe easier to just loosen stud screw , remove wheel and clean and oil and reasemble.I laid the balance up side down and lined up the stud and put it into the hole on the cock and tightened it.Also i was wondering would this screw have to be fairly snug to prevent any bumps from jaring it loose?
Sorry i am long winded. Razz Razz Razz Razz

IHC Member 261
Chapter 111,Ottawa
NAWCC Member 158976,
Nepean, Canada
 
Posts: 2133 | Registered: June 01, 2003
Picture of Kenny Drafts
posted
veritas,
I always remove the wheel before cleanng the balance cock.
You`re lucky if you had no trouble reinserting and tightening the stud. Some are hard to line up and keep in place until you can begin to tighten the screw. I`ve found that by using a small white or light colored card of stiff paper inserted between the stud and outer coil (under the stud) I can better insert the stud and hold it. The light background makes the stud easier to see and with a little positioning I can place the stud opening over and onto the stud. The stud can be held in with the card while tightening.
I tighten the screw snug like you would a plate or balance cock screw.
Hope this helps.

Smile

Kenny
 
Posts: 359 | Location: Lexington, South Carolina USA | Registered: July 28, 2003
IHC Life Member
Picture of John D. Duvall
posted
Kevin,

Were you thinking about removing the cap jewel only from the balance cock? This would be hard to do without prying around it and damaging the cap jewel setting. Even if you were able to access the upper hole jewel in this way, what are you going to do about the lower hole jewel?

To properly service the balance jewel assemblies (hole and cap jewels), they must be removed from the watch. This requires a tool known as a jewel pusher. I have a spoked tool with different size brass tips to accomplish this. Seitz makes a tool that will accomplish this plus other jewelling repairs for the watch. Some staking sets have an adapter with special stumps and pushers for jewelling purposes.

The way I look at it, you either clean and oil a watch the proper way or leave it alone. By proper, I mean tearing the watch down, inspecting the parts, cleaning and oiling. There are no short cuts to proper watch servicing, none!

You don't need a lot of special tools and materials to accomplish cleaning and lubrication of a watch. Here are just a few of the important ones:

1. A good quality set of screwdrivers. Don't skimp here!

2. A good quality pair of tweezers. These are your tiny fingers to hold and manipulate parts. Don't skimp here either!

3. A good quality synthetic lubricant and hand oilers.

4. Spoked jewel pusher.

5. Good cleaning and rinsing solutions and some half pint canning jars with lids.

6. At least two lint-free rags.

7. Hand puller (don't recommend using screwdrivers)

8. Canon pinion remover (don't recommend using pliers)

9. Pair of small needle nosed pliers.

10. Pithwood and pegwood for cleaning pinions, pivots and pivot holes.

11. A suitable bench/table and chair that will allow you to work at near eye level.

12. A good quality pair of Optivisors or similar magnifiers. These are your new eyes. Don't skimp here at all!

13. 10X Loupe

14. Mainspring winder

15. Last but not least, a good reference tape or book on basic watch repair.

Other miscellaneous items can probably be found around the house. There is a significant investment here but its an investment that will reward you when you see your first non-running watch come back to life!

As you run into other problems such as broken balance staffs, etc., you will need more specialized tools but the above tools and materials should get you on your way with proper cleaning and oiling.

Most important of all, remember that all of your IHC friends are supporting you and will help in any way we can.

John D. Duvall
Vice President, Education
 
Posts: 1123 | Location: Arizona U.S.A. | Registered: January 21, 2003
posted
Hi Kenny and John.I know you cannot without damaging the jewel remove it from the top.I know it needs to be pushed with a jewel pusher i just forgot to say that.I think mine has been pried as it is damaged somewhat around the jewel.I pegged out the jewel after i got the balance wheel removed from the cock.I also have pegged out the lower jewel.I have 2 books and 6 tapes from Bob Tascione.As for tools i am pretty well set.I need to reshape and resharpen my screwdrivers and i have some used bergerons that i like alot.
I am learning alot everyday and i try to work a little on my watches everyday to keep the feel of my tools and it relaxes me alot.I will get my Elgin i am working on going and i hope it isn,t long.
I am very pleased to have the knowledge and experience of the people of this chapter available when i need help.
All i can say is, this is the best chapter as far as i can see.

IHC Member 261
Chapter 111,Ottawa
NAWCC Member 158976,
Nepean, Canada
 
Posts: 2133 | Registered: June 01, 2003
IHC Life Member
Picture of John D. Duvall
posted
Kevin,

I'm still missing something here. Did you try to peg the hole with the cap jewel in place? If so, you would only be pushing the old oil and dirt into the cavity between the hole jewel and cap jewel. Peg the jewel before installing the cap jewel or when you have the jewel out of the balance cock/plate.

When you are referring to the "the stud screw", do you mean the hairspring stud? When I install the balance assembly on the balance cock, I place a piece of Rodico on the bench and gently press the cock upside down onto it. This keeps it stable while I place the balance into position.

When doing this, make sure the hairspring outer coil or over coil is positioned between the regulator curb pins. Don't over torque the hairspring stud screw. Just a gently torque to ensure that the screw is seated against the stud. A slip of the screwdriver here could mean big trouble!!

You may find that after installation into the movement, the hairspring over coil may rub on the balance cock. If so, you can loosen the hairspring stud screw and move it down a hairs width or so and retorque the screw. If the hairspring is not bent and it is studded correctly, you probably won't have to worry about having to adjust the stud's position.

John D. Duvall
Vice President, Education
 
Posts: 1123 | Location: Arizona U.S.A. | Registered: January 21, 2003
IHC Life Member
Picture of John D. Duvall
posted
Kevin,

I just noticed your picture in the "ORDER CHAPTER 185 T-SHIRTS" thread. You've got quite a backlog of watches there my friend. Big Grin Eek Big Grin

John D. Duvall
Vice President, Education
 
Posts: 1123 | Location: Arizona U.S.A. | Registered: January 21, 2003
posted
Yes John i was refering to the screw that holds the hairspring stud in.I only have a small peice of rodico so i will get a bigger peice to hold the balance cock.I will peg the jewel the way you told me
I do not have a proper dispaly cabinet for my watches so i hang them on hooks for now.
I just bought 3 more elgins for parts or maybe repair.
Yes ou do have to be careul when you are tightening down the screw that holds the hairspring stud, one slip and your spring could be destroyed.
Thanks John again.

IHC Member 261
Chapter 111,Ottawa
NAWCC Member 158976,
Nepean, Canada
 
Posts: 2133 | Registered: June 01, 2003
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