if anyone is looking for an inexpensive demagnetizer, I bought an ETIC (swiss made) demagnetizer from www.ofrei.com for $55.95 just last week and it does a good job.
Posts: 458 | Location: Norfolk, Virginia in the USA | Registered: July 24, 2009
Joe, I got the model from ofrei that's about $10.00 more. It's a pass through unit and although not stated it's a Kendrick and Davis and it works great. They're good about returns if you change your mind. RR
Posts: 1413 | Location: Fremont, California in the USA | Registered: February 06, 2010
Hey Joe, I checked their feedback before I posted the link,and everyone that bought one of those demagnetizers seems happy with it. I get most of my watch stuff from Ebay,and am happy with it so far. Here is my antique demagnetizer,that I bought off Ebay about 10 years ago for $9,plus $4 shipping,and it is still working. I personally prefer old tools to new ones.
Posts: 475 | Location: Gainesville, Florida in the USA | Registered: January 22, 2009
thanks Cecil. that is a pretty cool picture. I bet no one outside the pocket watch crowd would be able to identify what these things are. I know I couldn't have.
Posts: 458 | Location: Norfolk, Virginia in the USA | Registered: July 24, 2009
I also own the Ettic demag, but I am almost positive that it is the same exact unit as the cheaper ones all over Ebay. Works well. I use both an instantanious demag and the the blue one if I can't get it demagged with the other.
The new ones that are available from Witschi and Greiner Vibrograf are like $1000. They are sweet though. The Witschi tells you if there is magnetism left in the watch, so you can keep zapping it until you get it all out.
I honestly think that those old tunnel demagnetizers work the best.
I would caution that some of the really old demagnetizers, as shown in the one posted by Cecil 3 posts above, have exposed electrical wiring. The switch to turn it on, at the right side, is only a metal strip that is pushed down using the black knob. If you touch the metal it is possible to get electrocuted. It's especially important if you have kids or pets that might go snooping around the workshop. So look for ones that don't have exposed metal contacts for the switch. Mike
Hey Mike,you are right,OSHA would never approve of my demagnetizer. The electrical wires are just attached to thumb screws on the board. I put the red plastic covers over the exposed electric studs. Tools such as these were made back when folks didn't need caution stickers to tell them not to touch this or that. Common sense was pretty common back then. I don't have any kids,and I keep it unplugged when not in use,but you couldn't want for a more effective demagnetizer.
Posts: 475 | Location: Gainesville, Florida in the USA | Registered: January 22, 2009
I guess I ought to mention also that sometimes you might want to magnetize something. Well if you pass an object thru my old tool front to back it will completly demagnetize it,but if you pass it thru back to front it will make a very strong magnet. I don't know if those new ones will do that.
Posts: 475 | Location: Gainesville, Florida in the USA | Registered: January 22, 2009
I ordered a demagnetizer for the fun of it but I have to ask when is it OK to demagnetize a pocket watch. In theory it should not hurt the watch but is it ok to just remove the rear cover and hold it above the demag surface for a few seconds. The newer ones are not a tube where you can push the watch through. They have a flat plastic surface to place something on during the process...
Posts: 77 | Location: Hartford, Connecticut in the USA | Registered: August 11, 2010
Bill, I don't know what is proper or not ,but, when I used mine I left the back cover on and just held the watch very close to the demagnetizer and passed it over about 3 or 4 times with the dial up and it worked just fine.
Posts: 458 | Location: Norfolk, Virginia in the USA | Registered: July 24, 2009