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posted
I have a 3 - finger bridge Elgin movement that I want to dismantle. The upper jewel of the balance wheel got pulverized in transit and needs to be replaced - if I can find one, but that's another problem. If I am already going to try and fix it, I want to take the movement apart for cleaning, oiling etc.

My first step is to wind the watch down, but it is also my first problem. The click has a double tooth engagement in the ratchet wheel. Apparently, because of the double tooth engagement, I can't move it to one side or rotate it back to allow the spring to run down, at least not without crossing the red line into brute force and ignorance. I would like to attempt to do this as it should be done.

Could someone please tell me what I need to do?

The click

 
Posts: 129 | Registered: August 07, 2007
posted
The pulverized jewel

 
Posts: 129 | Registered: August 07, 2007
posted
The complete movement

 
Posts: 129 | Registered: August 07, 2007
posted
It must not of liked the trip. This is an easy one that you can do in or out of the case. In the case I hold the crownin one hand and with the other hand use a tweezer to hold the click back as you begin to wind, just a touch will do. I prefer to do this out of the case and the use a winding key. Either way will work. If you have some watch paper it is good to set this on top of the bridge to help hold in place. Also, if you take it out of the case use a good (correct size) movement holder. Okay, did you get it wound down yet? Smile
 
Posts: 126 | Location: Northern Ohio in the USA | Registered: February 05, 2007
posted
Also, no neeed to take the click screw out. I understand that many of these were very tight and it is common to bugger up the slot. If you need to take the ratchet wheel out do the same thing with the click, push back enough to get the ratchet wheel passed the click. GOOD LUCK!!
 
Posts: 126 | Location: Northern Ohio in the USA | Registered: February 05, 2007
Picture of Jerry Treiman
posted
Letting the mainspring down on this one will be easier in the case, as that will provide extra protection for the balance wheel and you get to use the stem and crown in the case rather than a bench key. Put a little winding pressure on the crown first so that the click is not bound tight, then using a toothpick or piece of pegwood (a slipped tweezer will scratch the plates) you can push the click counterclockwise and hold it there while you let the crown slowly unwind between your fingers. I would avoid loosening any screws until the mainspring is unwound.
 
Posts: 1455 | Location: Los Angeles, California USA | Registered: January 14, 2003
posted
Mission accomplished. It's wound down, though it was just on this side of the red line separating culture from barbarism.

Moving on...

Thanks

Next questions.

I know that I will need a jewel for the cock. Will any jewel in a setting from an Elgin fit? I don't have a jewel press so do I have to look for a complete cock to replace the existing one and would such a cock have to come from a 3-finger bridge movement? Or can I look for a jewel in a setting that has come from any Elgin cock?

If I only need a replacement jewel in a setting then how do I get it into center position, or will it naturally screw down into center position?

Beginners questions...

Finally, can anybody provide me with a replacement jewel or cock?
 
Posts: 129 | Registered: August 07, 2007
Picture of Jerry Treiman
posted
One should never replace serial numbered plate parts (such as the balance cock) unless the existing one is damaged beyond repair. You will need a balance hole jewel with the proper hole size. Elgin offered replacement hole jewels, in settings, in several hole sizes (to match different pivot sizes). The jewel in the setting will be self-centering. A set jewel may come from new-old-stock material or can be salvaged from a parts movement of the same model and grade.

[I have assumed that it is the hole jewel that is damaged. If it is the cap jewel then, of course, you don't need to worry about the hole size.]
 
Posts: 1455 | Location: Los Angeles, California USA | Registered: January 14, 2003
posted
Thanks Jerry. I am new at this so every new situation is a mystery.
As far as I can see at the moment, before starting to dismantle, it is the whole jewel plus cap that has been pulverized. After removing the fragments I cannot see any jewel in there. Only the staff pivot (correct terminology?) is visible.

So I am now looking for a cap jewel setting from a 3-bar movement...maybe I'll find that I need some other parts as I take it apart, so I'll hang on until I get it dismantled before I post requests for parts.
 
Posts: 129 | Registered: August 07, 2007
posted
Good job on letting the power down mate!

I agree with Jerry, keep the parts orginal. Hard to believe that the cap jewel is smashed as well. Remove the two screw and push the jewel out. There should be two pieces, one being the cap jewel. If it is gone as well look at the lower balance jewel for damage as well as the balance staff. I have a Elgin book at home that I could look up the orginal part numbers if you need. I'll send you an email on the other side.
 
Posts: 126 | Location: Northern Ohio in the USA | Registered: February 05, 2007
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