Hi all,
Just go this yesterday at an antique fair here.
It is an early Waltham common Mdl 1883 I think, but something does not seem right here, with the mvmt. It keeps reasonable time, and is running with what appears to be a strong beat.
Also the dial says Am. Watch Co. (Waltham) is this the right dial for this watch, or I should say, could this be the dial for the watch.
Thanks for your views on this.
Bill

mvmt

The regulator whip is wrong, Bill. It should have the T-shaped one that hooks up with the silver star on the balance bridge. These easily snap on and off.

Nice-looking frosted movement.

Eric,
Not being really repairer minded, are these regulator whips easy to find, and easier to install?
Also do you know if this would this have been adjusted to either 3 or 5 positions and RR approved, if not now at the time ? By the way I also thought the regulator was out of place.
Thanks for the information,
Bill

This is a nice frosted (rareer than most finishes)plate 1887-8 vintage #25. As an "A" grade it can be RR capable when certified by a RR Company Watch Inspector. The dial is correct as far as I know.

Bill, they're fairly easy to find and install.

They are essentially a snap-ring with an arm, with a split by the red arrow. You sort of pry it off by getting under the arm with something thin and plastic.

Dave and Eric,
Thanks again for the all the helpful information.
Eric,
I think I will look for the whip regulator and attempt to install it myself, sounds easy.
Dave,
I think I read somewhere that some of these were adj. to 3 and some were adj to 5 pos., if so how would you tell? This frosted finish is very attractive, was it just on this particular mdl, type, and from your prospective what would scarce be ?
Thanks again guys,
Bill

A Frosted plate 1883 is on the same plane as the "Two-Tone" finish which figures at $175.00 vis-a-vis the $100.00 for a "normal" 1883. That said, I think they are scarce. About one out of 5,000 of the 6.5 million 83's are Frosted plate. Say . . . less than 5,000 total. Those should all be within 3,000,000 to 4,000,000 S/N range

David,
Thanks for the info, I'll write it down on my card.
Bill

Bill, it might be a good idea to remove the balance, before you work on the regulator. If you need a regulator, e-mail me, I might be able to help.

Bill, I have found the following information for your s/n 3639889....

6/1/1888 2/28/1889 3639501 3640000 1883 No 25 WWCo Gr No. 25 NL 18 18 FP SW 4 Pairs 15 Ex Adj Pat. Reg. - Breg. HS OF OF A SW OF nickel PS Church Pat Reg BH

Your variant, one with the Church Pat Reg, is one of 4000 made from 1/1/1887 thru 2/28/1889....

It is adjusted to three postions plus Temp....

Regards,

Jerry

Thanks Brian and Jerry,
Brian, thanks for the offer, I have a friend here that I will Have look through his stuff, if I can not get one here,I will surely e-mail you.
Jerry,
This is great information on this watch, I will include it on my card.
Thanks all, for all the info.
Bill

Thank you Jerry for that added info on the 1883 movements. I didn't know that the regulator was a Church patented regulator. I just called it a star regulator, so thank you for that info.

Does anyone have more info on Mr. Church?

And what is the correct name for this common Waltham regulator that you see on many 17j and up 16 size movements? The one pictured is a 0 size from 1896.

Bill, when I put on a Church regulator staff on a watch, I take the following steps;
Note, My "sample" regulator pictured is available to you post-paid for a $20.00 donation to IHC185

1. Remove the Balance cock from the movement, and the balance wheel/hairspring from the balance cock.

1. Put the Balance cock on a Pithwood to protect the regulator pins while assembling it to the Cock.

2. While holding the Balance cock down on the Pithwood, put the regulator on the Balance cock at about 90 deg "out" where the regulator pins are not interfering with things and "rock" the regulator onto the Balance cock head. The regulator ring is split and will "snap" on with a light press.

3. Swing the regulator "T" around to just short of the wheel adjustor hub.

4. Using a small screwdriver (only if necessary) start the regulator "T" end across the top of the wheel adjustor hub.

5. You can now carefully reassemble the Balance wheel, making sure the Hairspring is going through the regulator pins before you tighten the hairspring stud locking screw.

Please note that the tension pre-load crossbar is missing from the balance cock pictured. That omission is because I used it for "parts" on a restoration. The steps described above are for installing the regulator arm to a Balance Cock WITH a preload crossbar in place.