Also, I've just been working on size 16 Elgins. How much harder is it to work on these 10/0s watches because they are so small.
I really like those watches in particular, and could see if I really get into the collecting side, those are the ones I'd like to get a hold of. Actually would like to wear one myself. Lost an ebay auction last night for a working one.
Anyway, just looking for information, advice and pictures. Thanks.
Posts: 152 | Location: Miami, Florida in the USA | Registered: August 11, 2009
Dale, The several "Lady" named watches of which the Lady Elgin nears the top value wise due to their usual solid gold casing which makes them more rare (cased) these days. They are not much more difficult to work on than a 16 size. That said, you need light hands and good vision for both, or in my case just work slowly and carefully and follow Chris Abell's "16 steps of good conduct". Chris's steps can be viewed at;
Oh, good to know. I have a very light touch and very thin fingers actually! I am a small works artist, so it only seems logical that I'd develop an interest in the smaller watches.
As for the eyesight, I am blind as a bat. But I've come to realize that if I take my contacts out while working on a watch, I don't even need a loop! I never thought poor eyesight could be an asset to anything until now. If I have my contacts in I need reading glasses or a loop... it's like a performance art piece trying to figure out what I need to see with and where it all is! While the glasses are on my face the loop is usually on my forehead steaming up the glass.
And I have seen those high priced versions of the watches on ebay. I had wondered why they were so pricey.
Posts: 152 | Location: Miami, Florida in the USA | Registered: August 11, 2009