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The other day I wandered into a local pawn shop and looked at the various pocket watches that they had on display. Amongst the offerings was a South Bend. The serial number was 420782 (1915 ?) and referencing it in the Shugart book I found this additional information: that the watch was 16s, 17 jewels and was a grade 291. The jewelling corresponded with markings on the movement and the watch was indeed 16s. Neither the grade nor the model (#1) were visibly marked on the movement. Again, according to data in the Shugart book, the average price of the watch is $185.00, and there is no special notation regarding the case material. The movement in the shop is housed in a 14k gold case. A plain, 14k gold, open-face case has an average price (again according to Shugart) of $225.00. Combined, the price would be $410.00. The obvious problem with that thinking is that the initially cited price ($185.00) would have already included some value for a case. So the question arises how much should be added to the $185.00 average price to allow for a gold case? Thanks for your help. - Mark Lee | |||
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IHC President Life Member |
Mark, There were around 7,000 produced of the 291 which as you found, was a 16s first model 17-jewel movement. I'd place the production year for number 420782 at 1905 or thereabouts. The first model movements were well designed and nicely finished. Though not considered as RR Grade the 291 is a very good watch. You'll find the grade number was just beginning to be marked about the time this one was produced and most South-Bend watches of this era were not marked as to their grade. Also, none of the South-Bend watches were ever marked as to being first or second model. Your question as to what premium to add for solid-gold cases is one we all have wrestled with. One rule of thumb involves evaluating the gold case for its value, both as a case and as gold. If we then deduct from that amount what an average 16-size gold-filled case is worth that would be a starting point. The amount shown in the watch guide for a gold case is a bit, ah, behind the times. If you should find a really worthwhile gold case available it may just turn out to be nearly double that $225.00 area! Values shown for South-Bend watches have always lagged behind the actual actual market value and when it you consider that fact, the values shown become increasingly unrealistic. You must of course always evaluate the whole watch based upon condition. A nice 291 is easily 2 to 3 hundred, and that gold case if it's in good condition could very easily double the value. Be sure to look for other case screw marks. Also see if the lever-cut in the case lines up with the lever on the movement. A lot of collectors have the impression that South-Bend watches came only in South-Bend marked cases. Except for the South-Bend Polaris, their 12-size watches and the Studebaker mail-order watches in the 1920s most were cased and timed by the retail selling jeweler in whatever case the buyer chose from available inventory. So, with the exception of the South-Bend Polaris which came only in a South-Bend gold case, most any other South-Bend watch could correctly be in practically any make of case. Lindell | |||
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Lindell, It sure is hard to find this type of information. I do understand the reason for the difficulty in determining the price, but it's messages like this one, that really help with the decision to buy or not to buy. I used to feel that answers like this were not enough, but today I see why you can Never put a price on a watch, even with a book. I have seen 14k watch cases 18s go for as little as $100.00 to as high as $2200.00. Big difference, and to top it off the $100.00 watch was in much better and sharper condition. I recently purchased a small watch (with movement) 0s, 14k, and it was a choice between 2 of the same watch, one went for $200.00 and the other $352.00 so you never know I guess. As far as the "Book" being the answer to everything, I have finally learned that the book can give us a very ROUGH estimate, but it takes YOU GUYS to find the actual value. Sometimes my rule of thumb is, "How much do I really want this watch" not always a good way to judge or a good reason, but sometimes you just gotta "go for it" Thank you for the Post! Mark, Let your "gut" tell you sometime. Good Luck! Sheila | ||||
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IHC Member 163 |
I have a 'like' situation, where I have access to a Hamilton 974 in a 14K gold case, with option to buy. The watch is a good runner (just requires regular servicing and a glass crystal. Currently has a loose plastic crystal installed), but has all the appearance of having been carried, and carried a LOT in it's lifetime. The back is badly dented, and the dial hairlined and a single chunk is missing above the seconds bit. No brassing at all, though. For a collector, the watch, in my opinion, would not be a good selection at all. It WOULD be a good carry watch, once again in my opinion, but do you go by what the case would be worth in terms of BEING a gold case, or by scrap value to a jeweler. I'm afraid that's all someone not like me would do with this gold case if they picked it up, and that just doesn't sit right with me at all. There's an inscription inside the back of the case that says 'presented to A. Perron by wife and daughters...1915". I can't help but connect with this watch. 100 years from now, that could just as well be one of MY watches floating around out there, away from the family, and staring destruction squarely in the face. I'll probably work out some sort of deal with the man who has it (local), but am in the same quandry regarding pricing of a good gold case, and that of one in this banged up condition. Is it the same, or are there different prices to go by? Regards. Mark | |||
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Mark Cross, First, consider this, I am NOT the expert everyone here is, but I do know that the "Book" is not a clear indication of the price at all. I have found that watch prices are much higher than a year ago, and the way I determine the value is mine alone. You have to make the decision on the watch and this may help. Do you think about it often? Do you go back and look at it? Has it perked your interest enough that you would be dissapointed if it were gone when you go back? It looks like you have considered this watch quite a lot, so maybe you should consider what you may wish to OFFER the person for the watch, then I would suggest a price, and if they will not take it, then maybe you should ask for the BEST OFFER they would make on it. Then it's entirely up to you. On a watch that I sincerely like, I hold on to it until I work out a way to get it. I have missed some, but the ones I set my heart to are mine. This is what you have to decide, FORGET the GOLD, Forget the Whatever, Do you want the Watch? If so, go for it, if you can forget it, then drop it now, and don't look back. It does seem that you have more you LIKE about the watch, than what is wrong with it. The VALUE is in the eye of the beholder. (and the heartfelt desire to own it) Each person has the ability to choose what the value is, no matter what material it is made of. I know this seems like no answer at all, but it is the one I use a lot. Sounds like you WANT this watch to me. Go for it! The best deal is the one that gets the watch! PS A good Gold case can Often be serviced like new too! Sheila | ||||
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PSS I have also purchased a 14k Gold watch in a BAD CASE just because I loved the watch, and I have NO REGRETS at all. Sheila | ||||
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