I purchased a Waltham Royal the other day - it was all apart in a box. I started putting it together to see what parts are missing - I have never worked on a Waltham Royal before - it has a detent stem system. Anyhow, does anyone have a Waltham Royal? If so, can you please take it apart and post a digital picture of the stem lever system? I am missing some of the parts to transfer it between wind and set position - there is nothing to transfer the clutch. Thanks

Hello Mark, and Welcome to Chapter 185. Here you will find a lot of great folks and topics.

As you can guess, there were several sizes and types of Waltham Royal movements over the years. If you could post the serial number of the movement, so we could define the model, we would have a better idea of what information to provide.

Once again, welcome aboard!

This sounds like it could be an 1888 model 16-size, in which case the setting parts look like this --

Thanks a million. I had that little lever in backwards and was convinced I was missing a piece or two.

Lacking the manual dexterity to even think about taking a watch apart I need to ask about functioning of the hook-nosed cam and the lever. When the crown is pulled up (presumably engaging the cam) does the cam nose rotate past the right anchor screw and directly push the lever down? Thanks.

The "cam" stops against the screwhead. If it went any further the stub at the other end would disengage from the stem.

Jerry;
Thanks. I think that this is the first time in which I ever encountered a screw head the proportions of which were as important as the pitch and size of the threads.

Well, it works. I thought I had to put an inordant amount of grease on the parts to get it to work smoothly. I didn't put on enough to crank a bus, but is that common with this kinda mechanism? Also, any guidance on how to revive a dulled gilded movement? Simichrome and a well-worn tooth brush, perhaps? Thanks

HI Mark, No Simichrome on the gilt. It will actually remove the gilting from the brass. I have heard that a solution of ammonia and water will bring out the gilting. Have not tried it.

Anyone else?

Tom

I have some old parts I can test. Thanks

Mark,

The point is not how shiny the plates look. The gilded finish is not meant to be "polished," in fact, it will destroy the resale value.

The metal polish will remove the texture of the gilt finish and make it look like it was buffed on a wheel.

If you try it on some gilt parts you will see the effect. The old 3 jar cleaning method (which I still use) is the best way to get the brightness restored.

The reason is the ammoniated cleaner that L&R made and was the standard method for over 75 years, now because of the nonavailibility of this ammonia cleaner through watch suppliers everyone has to use the petroleum based ultrasonic cleaners and they don't do much for brightening up the metal.

Tom's suggestion is the good way to clean up the plates and keep the textured finish on the plates.

The semichrome will go into the jewel holes and get on the pivots and you will have a mess and the watch will have to be stripped down and cleaned anyway.

Thanks for your input. Do you use the ammonia straight or dilute it with water?

Mark,

I would cut it to a 50/50 ratio and do it where you can get some fresh air! You can buy it in the grocery store. Use a worn out tooth brush or something similar. Let it soak for 15 minutes and rinse with water and blow or air dry.

Let us know your opinion of the results vs. the metal polish.

Better yet use a very soft small paint brush - do not brush too hard or the guilding will discolor. Put it in the solution for only a few minutes, and brush lightly, then throughly rinse and dry. Very well ventilated area.

Thanks