I picked up an Elgin convertible, Model 1, Grade 50 that looks to badly need a cleaning. It also needs a mainspring. My Swigart book does not list the 16s, model 1 info. Does this take the 817 mainspring like most 16s Elgins? SN is 1398631, and it was made in 1882. It has a silver case and a nice dial. After it get cleaned up I'll show more photos if there is an interest in seeing them.

****Also, are there pitfalls I need to be aware of before disassembly?******

Yes 817 strength .008 or 3 1/2

That was fast. Thanks Gary. Any problems unique to these watches?

See my ad on ebay #271224741715

ELGIN 16s-----#817--- 1 PCS WHITE ALLOY Mainspring 17 1/2 x 3 1/2 x 21 1/2
@$15 ea no S/H

Or contact me directly at mrmrel.mrmel@gmail.com

Thanks Melvin. I do have some of these but will bookmark it.

Mike,
Maybe someone else can answer that question for you..It crazy but I can't remember ever working on one. That's what happens when you get old...

Here is what I remember from the last time I worked on one mike.

1. There is a little sliver pin that sits between the lever and the arm that allows you to either wind or adjust time by making the arm lift the shiny wheel near the serial number. The lever pushes it up. If you dont watch out you wont see it if you either take the lever out or that arm. If you tip the movement over it will fall out as nothing holds it in. You will be searching for it forever if it rolls onto the floor.

2. The cannon pinion is just pressed into the shaft that connects to the shiny gear in the center. Lightly tap out the pin from the canon pinon. A normal cannon pinion remover wont pull it off.

Mike, This grade 50 is a RR grade and very much worth restoration.

the cannon pinion is pressed on to a shaft coming though the hollow center wheel staff. The bottom end of the 1 piece shaft has a "head" on it sort of like a nail would.

You need to put this in a staking set with the toothed set wheel on a stump with enough I.D. clearance for shaft head to clear and drop down when you use a medium flat head stake to tap on the pin end of the shaft protruding up through the cannon pinion.

To put it on use the staking set with a flat stump and a hollow stake that clears the small pin end and tap it on to give the cannon pinion a light press fit that squeezes it together at both ends of the hollow center wheel staff to make a "clutching" action.

I'll try this. Sure seems complicated so I understand the discontinuation decision by Elgin. Hope it doesn't EXPLODE! Thanks all. Dave, if I have troubles I'll give a call. I still have your # somewhere.