Hello All,
I already have my feet wet in some minor repairs. But as I note how often repairs can involve balance staff repairs/replacement, it is intimidating!

It appears to me that the tools and skill level to repair one, are at a pretty high level.

Are there people in the club who specialize in this area that could be called upon, at least until one acquires the ability to do it yourself???

very good question.
I just acquire the staff remover tool I have the stacking set.
and I will try my best on some size 16 7 jewels
as a dry run.

Tom and Peter, if you haven't already, try to get a copy The Watch Repairers Manual by Henry B. Fried, a textbook used by many watchmaker schools. Provides a good starting point in staff repairs and many other repairs. My local public library was able to locate a copy for me to borrow. Copies are often at online used book dealers, also ebay. I picked up a copy from Alibris.com. Try a search online. A very worthwhile book to have if you plan to repair.

Gary

I have the book and all tools to do the work I hope.
Just need more mental strength to
get started.

Thanks a lot Gary. Will watch for that on EBay or Amazon. I guess that another element is that if you are doing this for a hobby, and not plan to use it for everyday timekeeping, the effort to learn and apply the skill becomes a big factor.

I want to enjoy the hobby, more or less like fishing for fun, as opposed to becoming a commercial fisherman.

Will look for the book as I am sure it has other useful info Thanks again.

Tom if you need help let me know.

Googled search of author turned up some copies. Approach as a hobby, and take a break if it starts to get frustrating, it's a great feeling when you get a broken piece up and running. You'll find lots of help from the members.

Gary

Various links...


Amazon: Watch Repairers Manual by Henry Fried

Abe Books: Watch Repairers Manual by Henry Fried

Alibris: Watch Repairers Manual by Henry Fried


...with similar prices!

Much thanks to all the replies. I know many of you were at the same place that I am, at one time.
I am a retired toolmaker/experimental machinist, and
have faced some real challenges, but with watches, the smallness is getting greater, and my vision is getting lesser!!! But still having fun.

Tom, changing a staff demands your background to do at all without careful class room training.

The replacement staff must be compared with the original because they are rarely exactly the same.

You need to pre-fit the staff to the balance wheel and decide how much to work on the arm until it is a light press fit. It it is too loose, then when you rivet it, the balance staff will never balance properly as the center of rotation is too far off.

The Hair spring collet is work hardened copper alloy of unreliable "softness" so when you remove it and tighten it for a light press re-assembly you need to work it slightly rather than force it or you will have a two-piece collet.

The Jewels must free-spin the Balance wheel/staff test assembly (before riveting) as if you are looking at near "perpetual motion" in all positions. I manipulate it like the Gyro drag testers I did for Sperry-Uni. If the wheel is not that free, the staff pivots need to be lathe burnished to true free spin condition before final riveting to the wheel.

If you have a #50 staff remover, remember it works like a compression die shearing set. Make sure you have the closest clearance fit hole around the old staff support collar that is available on the base plate of the staking set. then make sure the clamping collar is finger tight (+ a little) and use a 2 ounce brass hammer to tap the driving stake with increasing firmness until the old rivet ring shears.

I was going to write a longer tutorial, but in short "you gots to know how metal moves". e-mail me at david@glopar.com and include your phone if you want more bothersome advice.

Thanks to all the contributors.
I finally got Henry Frieds book.
Looks like a great help.
Again thanks to all.

Tom just to let you know
get all the tools to do the work as I just did my first staff replace on Hampden I got from John G.
its not as hard as it looks.

Thanks for all the steering from all of you.
I got the book. I can see why all the praises
to it.
Also the posts have been a boost.

Now that I'm coming back from my stroke I will be getting back into jeweling and staff repair. I have been working on getting my bench set up for this.
Replacing a staff is not as easy as just putting in a new one.
I use a lathe (As recommended) to remove the old staff and then once together it must be trued, balanced, polished if needed and all clearances checked. The fork must be properly fit and everything rechecked. The hairspring serviced and it will need to be put in beat again too. The balance cock will need to be true and clean.
Be sure you know the text and book learning first, inside out before you attempt
to actually try the staff repair. A lot of times I get stuck and end up using a blue steel shaft and turning it to fit. Suggest you read Chapter 7, page 97 - 203, of Frie's book B-4 you even attempt to replace a staff. An instance I often run into is that the height of the balance seat is often different than the required height This is not mentioned in any of the books I can find but it happens. If to long it's fine as I can cut it down on the lathe, but if to short, find another staff.
Davids post is a good read for your answer and Peter is also correct. Once done it's just doing it, but David is correct in that you better know what your your doing....
Peter, I will walk you through your first staff replacement if you wish. Do you have all the tools?