Hi all,
Picked up an old watch demagentizer.
Before I use it I just wanted to know best way to do it. Do I remove the movement from the case? Do I remove the balance cock, wheel and hairspring and just demagnetize those parts only?

I have 2 movements that run super fast and cover 5 seconds in 2 1/2 on the seconds chapter, so to me they are magnetized after doing everything else.

Thank you, Roland.

Roland,
I've always demagnatized the watch as a whole inside the case. Here's the instuctions that came with my K&D demagnatizer that looks similar with an oval opening. It's newer than yours so I don't know if the duty cycle would apply. RR

Are those 15 dollar demagnetizers on ebay any good? I really don't want to spend a fortune, and I need one.

But I've already learned, penny wise and pound foolish, so if I buy a cheap one and wind up needing a better one, I'll wind up spending much more in the long run.

how do you know if your watch needs demagnetizing?

I have a watch that picks up more than an hour a day. I put a compass next to it and it spins to north when it gets next to the balance of the watch.

Joe

In my opinion you might question if it needs to be checked if your watch will not keep time, as Dale mentioned using a small compass will usually tell you.

Dale, are you asking about your movement? In my limited experience if the watch is running & you put the compass near or over the balance the compass will swing back & forth to some degree.

I also found once that it was the mainspring that for some reason became one giant magnet. In that case the magnet would swing directly north as I got near one end of the barrel & then swing completely around to the south as I moved towards the opposite end.

I had never seen a mainspring so magnetized, it was a brand new mainspring & it would not demagnetize so I had to totally replace it.

Thank you Richard for that copy. Mine is a bit older from the 1950's and when holding down the button, boy it gets warm, but it worked perfectly. I did buy one of those blue plastic cheapies from eBay and they just are not strong enough. It can take about 4-5 passes and it might do the job. This old one I picked up for 6 bucks at a second hand tool shop and what a difference. 1 pass and it got the movement back to ticking with a regular beat.

Thanks to all again for the input.

Roland.

Roland,
Your welcome I'm glad that worked for you.

Dale,
I picked up mine at Otto Frei. Here's the link. Demagnetizer I think it was around $45.00 at the time. It's the FB-122 which is the middle of the line and it works good for occasional use. If you don't want to spend that much keep looking on ebay and elsewhere for an old heavy duty one like Roland got. The older units are probably better and cost alot less. RR

Thanks for the advice. I just won a K&D on eBay for twenty bucks. I figured that wasn't too much to spend on a classic rather than fifteen on those new cheapy ones.

Just to follow up, I got the demagnetizer and used it on the Lady Elgin that was magnetized.

Runs true now.

That's great Dale! I never realized just how easily a movement can get magnetized. I've now gone an demagnetized my entire collection and what a difference. It's as though new life has been brought back into them and they run just that much smoother. Kind of like when you change your oil in your car and you swear it runs better and faster. I am going to add demagnetizing as a regular part of the servicing from now on.

Have a good one and enjoy the use of an old tool and be part of recycling like never before.

Roland.