Hi... new at this. A big thank you to Tom Brown for info and a couple movements to play around with. Here's the problem... I can't afford a watch cleaner, mechanical or ultrasonic... so I need to do some parts cleaning old school style. Brush and Chalk and all that... What I can't figure out is the protocol and where the chalk comes in. Is it put chalk on the brush, dip the part, brush a while... what exactly is the process.

Also... Seeing as how benzine is not readily available, I've been looking for an equivalent solvent. On another forum, the L&R info sheet for their rinse was listed as 75% stoddard solvents and 25% naptha... aka Mineral spirits and Coleman fuel. Hey, I think to myself, I can make that! Any thoughts on this dubious plan?
--Mike

Hey Mike-I used just plain Naphta for a long time-not something you want so sniff too much of but it does a fair job and has a quick, clean dry.
As for that brush and chalk thing,I never heard of it for general cleaning-It must be very old school and part of a process-I'd suggest you forget it. Go to Value hardware or such and get the Naphta, it's easy,cheap and a good start.

Thanks for the reply! I think I'll give that a shot. As for the brush, I saw mention of using old, soft, used tooth brushes... is that okay, or do I need to spend money on official "Watch cleaning brushes?"
--mike

Dad used to use Ronson lighter fluid. It's naptha in a smaller convient container. The small brush used to clean electric shavers is a nice size brush.
Mac

You got it,Mac-or one of your wife's make-up brushes.

Your so brave, and I have always wanted to do this too!
So, now that I finally have a cheap movement that I'm not afraid of, because it's already apart, I'm going to do the same!!!

This is wonderful! I'm going to the store tonight and pick up some too.

Maybe we can compare results!

Sheila,everytime I see you post about working on a movement I jump at the chance to encourage you!!
I don't care what you have-give something a try-start where you please! Your confidence will build with each step you take.
But...I would like to see any beginner(of which I still consider myself) start with a 3/4 plate movement that still has a few ticks left. That way, if it still ticks when you re-assemble, there's a feeling of real accomplishment.
I know you can do this-don't be afraid!! I certainly would be glad to help- martybspace-ebay@yahoo.com - anytime,OK?

I've picked up some naptha and mineral spirts, and turned my toothbrush into a high-tech horological instrument... now I just need a spare hour to take my Waltham apart again...

Marty's advice is right on... I've had the Waltham apart and reassembled 4 times now and all I can say is that it doesn't work just as good as it didn't work before I started! I'll take apart and reassemble the working watch Tom sent (Thanks again, Tom!) and that will show whether I'm getting anywhere or not.

Of course... on the other hand.... I managed to shatter the second wheel jewel by cranking down on the screws without it being set right... leaving me wondering what tools I need to replace a friction jewel setting. UGH. (Tom helped out again with a non-working identical movement, but I'd rather move the jewel from one to the other than move the whole plate.)

Good luck, Sheila, as you dig into to your practice watch... it's loads of fun!
--Mike

PLEASE!
Don't anyone use lighter fluid to clean watches, we need you here.
Take it from someone that has tried numerous times to find a good cheap cleaner. There isn't any, better than the L&R cleaners.
Brian C.

Just an update... I took apart the Waltham and reassembled it with the bridges from the parts watch Tom sent me. Still doesn't run, but I think I've learn a thing or two...
#1 - Don't by cheap tools. I bought a set of screwdrivers online... all most all of them are now twisted. If the screw was even slightly tight, forget it.
B) I don't know how to use an oiler. I have a cup and a tiny bottle of oil and an "oiler tool" which amounts to a needle and handle. The oil drop stays a smidge up the needle and point seems to stay dry. I ended up trying to smear oil into the jewel holes off the side of the needle.
Thirdly - It takes exactly four times of taking a watch apart and putting it back together without it working before I start to really get frustrated with that watch.

Next up... I'm going to take Tom and Marty's advice, set aside my basket case Waltham and take apart the working one Tom sent me... and see if I can put it back together....

--Mike

Well Guys, I gotta tell ya, I have been at this for years now, and I just can NOT bring myself to take a watch apart! I even purchased 3 or more to do just that, and still could not make myself work on it, because I would just destroy it.

I can however, use the plates on this very messed up, only 2 plates, movement for just that purpose.

It's not that I'm not confident that I can do it, it's that I don't want to make something that is vintage, and to me, a work of art, and just play with it. So, cleaning the plates will allow me to do that, and when I see them nice and clean, without scratches and ruined, I will become very brave, and want to clean them all.

Mike, I'm glad to hear your going to work on the watch that Tom sent you. That's a perfect way to get out of the frustration of the other watch, and it will be great to have the satisfaction of seeing, not only a job well done, but the joy of hearing a watch tick, that YOU put together. I can't wait to be able to do the same thing.

Marty, I have to take baby steps when it comes to watches. Usually I just jump in and start, but from the beginning, I have just had "A THING" about messing with my watches, no matter how bad they are. Today however, I don't feel quite so uneasy about it, and will start with the baby step of just cleaning a few pieces of plate for now, and then I will feel better about not "killing" them, and will be brave enough to actually take one apart.

I know I'm ready, and with all the help here, I know I can get through it, and always have YOU GUYS to put it back together for me if I can't.

This, one step at a time, seems easier than it ever has before, so maybe this is the first step on a new walk with my watches.

Who knows, I may even be BETTER than you pros one day. hehehehehehe only joking of course.

(did I sound brave?) hehehehe

I don't want to be a pro, but I would like to be abel to take my watches apart and clean them one day.

I would also love to see some before and after photos if you have any.

Mike and Shiela -If you use naphta keep it in an airtight container-Brian's absolutely right;you should use L&R cleaners even if it's only in a cup or jar.
You can get some good cheap tools from "The Watch Guy" - http://www.thewatchguy.com/pages/TOOLS.html - they aren't bad for the money,my screwdrivers haven't bent yet!!
Ans Sheila-go ahead and take all the baby steps you please!! But don't be afraid to "hurt" a pocket watch,especially a beat up piece that only has a few ticks in it anyway. Who knows-you may give it a few more years by cleaning it!

*


So what do you suppose are the principal components of the L&R waterless watch cleaners?

Stoddard solvent (mineral spirits or paint thinner) and Naphtha.


*

Hi

You are perfectly correct, these chemicals will remove old oil & grease residue, so will, ammonia, most soaps, laundry detergent , gasoline etc etc. However you would not use laundry detergent with a dollop of petrol, and something else you found under the sink that looks strong to wash you car with, would you? , it certainly would get the car clean. Removing dirt, dust tar etc, it may damage the paint a little each time and tear up the glaze but it was cheap! And you didn’t have to pay those car wash fees either.

Many people start off creating the concoctions which can easily damage the watch in many ways not to mention the risk to you & your family's health and house!

L&R to name only one watch cleaner supplier have been developing these fine cleaners for many years and they do a excellent job they are cheap when used & stored correctly. The act of cleaning as far as removing old oil and grease etc is only a small step in cleaning a watch and a very easy and simple task. I see in another section one of our members (L Fure) gave some excellent advice that the best place to start is a book.

Well, I was trying to make the point that proprietary waterless cleaning solutions, like L&R, are composed mostly of Stoddard solvent and naphtha. Therefore, the homemade version is not likely to be more dangerous to use, either from the standpoint of flammability or toxicity.

It is true that the L&R solutions contain performance enhancing additives that you are not likely to find at the corner hardware store.

On the other hand, since I live in Alaska, L&R solutions are wildly impractical for me to obtain because they can't be shipped by air freight.

It's good that I like chemistry.

Well, if you check most of the supply houses like Frei, Borel, and Cas-Ker, you will find that they will only ship to the continental 48 states. FedEx Ground and UPS Ground don't go to Alaska or Hawaii. If you happen to know of a supplier that will ship to Alaska, I would be glad to hear of it.