What am I missing with the lights?

Another watch same set up slightly different light orientation. Too much light, but the orientation and softness needs to improve. A clean movement would hepl too!

I don't know Mike but they turned out better than mine. If you find out let me know. And I did not get that link in the email.
Harry

Mike, you don't say if you are using a light box.

If you aren't that could be your answer as you achieve the brightness required for a good exposure (better depth of field) without the harshness as the light is effectively diffused. Another alternative is to add a Flash diffuser, but this would depend on your camera setup.

See my post here for a cheap light box

Both Pictures below were taken in my Light box with the external lights on (part of the kit) The one on the left was over exposed due to the Cameras flash operating, the one on the right was ambient light only (Flash - off, Kit lights - on)
P.S. these images are 1/10th of original size for posting purposes.

Mike, like Gareth said, the flash needs to be off. The object lighting needs to be both indirect and soft, and I have much better results with a white background than any other color.

Try a light box.

You need the light for a good picture but the lighting needs to be diffused as mentioned. So even if you are using cwf lighting unless it has a diffuser between the bulb and the object you will get reflection. I am making a box but you could have an area that you put the watch, turn off the normal light and use a clip on lamp and put a frost white diffuser from some home supply location in between the watch and diffuser and you should be in good shape.

I am still pluggin and chuggin on it but clearly Eric has it mastered.

Light boxes like the one I use are available all over the web for $40-$90. They include 2 Quartz Halogan lamps and some background choices and even a tripod acessory. The camera I use with mine is a Canon video camera because it includes a remote shutter control and "Macro-Zoom" that allows taking pictures of micro parts with the camera about 4 feet away from the object. The "still" camera can be very effective so long as you learn how to manipulate the "Macro" setting.

David - Identical Light Box to mine
I shoot from a similar distance as your setup shows but I use a Sony A200 SLR with a Tamron 90mm macro lens which allows me to produce the picture below. This has been cropped for size but is 100% original scale. Unfortunateley this shows the smallest abhorations note the N and the fact the hands need re-bluing

I have the same light box but my photos do not come out that good. I have to put my macro lens almost touching the subject or I get a focus warning. If I move back just a couple on inches this happens. Thanks for the tips I will try moving back about 4 feet.

I just got the light box and was trying different approaches, but my results are not that good. I think I'll make a diffuser for each light and see if that helps. I'm using a Cannon 620 7.1 MP so it's not the worst, but surely not the best camera equipment.

The Macro Zoom is a function of my Canon DCR SR62 Video Camera.

I seriously doubt the outcome using a video camera still-shot from 4 feet away.

I keep the lens of my Nikon inches from the watch on the standard setting, using an f-stop of about 1/13 and an aperture of roughly 10. To throw the damask pattern into relief you should keep the light source(s) roughly along side the movement.

Short of having a light box and flood lights or not, I prefer photographing under a deck umbrella on an overcast day. I do not use a flash.