Question for anyone. I'm a relative novice with 1/2 dozen pocket watches in pieces on my bench. One is a 16S 15J Elgin and all the train jewels were pretty badly smashed so I'm using them for practice. Got the 3rd wheel lower j pressed out and replaced w/ a hole j from a bag of random jewels. Rubbed over tight w/ a hand-made tool but it appears to sit a little high. I don't have a proper jewel press or any way measure the thickness of the other jewels because once I press them out they are in pieces. Can any one tell me how thick those train jewels should be? Thanks,

Tom

Thomas, your question is way above my pay grade so I will just say welcome to the club.

Thomas,

Jeweling is not novice work. Trying to do this without the proper tools and knowledge is going to be extremely frustrating. Now if you had the correct replacement jewel in setting to swap out, then not a problem, but it doesn't sound that way.

If watch repair is something you seriously want to get into, be prepared to invest in the tools and equipment necessary to be successful.

Not trying to discourage you, just pointing out reality.

Roger

Thanks for the feedback. Given my love of bringing a dead watch back to life, it is likely I will have a proper jewel pusher before long. As this is a forum for sharing information let me insert that Mark Lovick's Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9fMTNuxDXmU) is the most helpful thing I've found so far on jewel pushers. However, I doubt many start out with a full complement of tools. I doubt not there were excellent watchmakers before Mr. Seitz came along. Without getting too long let me express my surprise that of nearly 200 viewers, no one has answered my question. Are the original factory specs on these jewels now lost to antiquity?

Tom

No, there is no book of specs when it comes to jewel sizes for pocket watches from any of the makers that I have seen Tom. To my knowledge you would order the part from the parts supply house's back in the day.

When you ordered, you would have to supply the particular grade, model and in some cases class of watch and then were supplied the correct part. Also in other cases you would have to send the old part to the supply house as a sample.

If a Watch Repairer was going to make the part he would measure up the old one (which you have to do, or the length between the pivots to know what depth you need)and then, and only then he/she (you in this case) would know what was needed.

As Roger said, proper tools are needed. and yes there were Watchmakers doing it before the Seitz tool come along, but most Good Watchmakers/ Repairer made what they needed to do the job correctly.

Also with regard to Roger's comment about knowledge, you should have checked the height/measurement of the jewel before pressing it out, Thereby you would not have wasted the time doing an incorrect job at the start, a little tip for the next time

For Bila. I'm working on the knowledge part and you all are helping me. That's why I'm doing this. So thanks.

I have a digital micrometer but there's no way you could measure the height of a jewel in a plate with it. What sort of tool do you use for that?

And please give me a bit more on your comment about measurements. I can understand measuring between the pivots. I could see measuring between the plates. But the top of the jewel isn't always right at the top of the plate is it? Please clarify that procedure a little more.

By the way, all the train jewels in this movement were so badly damaged, there was not much you could have measured either before or after I pressed the pieces out. That's what gave me the courage to give it a go.

Tom

Hi Thomas , One thing that helped me quite a bit is the Chicago school of watchmaking lessons , I have them saved under documents but am unsure of how to send them , just to keep IHC out of copyright trouble , I recommend that you do a google search , If you still cannot find them let me know and I will get them to you

I agree with Kevin. It is a great reference as well as a comprehensive training course. I like to hold hard-copy in my hands, so I broke down and bought the hardback book through LuLu. You can buy the book here. It's $65 for the hardback and $45 for soft cover.

Thanks to both. I have been through the Chicago lessons and the Bulova lessons. Actually found Bulova to be more helpful on friction jeweling. For the naysayers out there, I put the bridge (three smashed jewels and all) back on that 16S Elgin along w/ the 3rd wheel plate jewel that I eye-ball selected and rubbed in w/ a hand-made tool and the wheel runs smoothly. Seems there are still some watchmakers making there own tools! But you will also be happy to know that my Seitz jeweling tool is on its way from N.C. I'll attack the bridge after it gets here.

Thomas, do you have a staking tool set by any chance?

The reason I'm asking is that it will also press jewels out and in, and many of them have it so you can set the depth when you are pressing the old jewel out so that you will know the proper depth when pressing the good jewel back in to the plate.

I just started this when I retired a few years ago and find it interesting, your statements on the "hand made tool".

I had a watchmaker help me a lot over the phone for a few years and he was surprised, and happy, at the way I would make a tool, or even a part when there was none to be found when I needed it. I also have found this book that he recommended to be VERY helpful at times. I apologize for the rushed picture. I had an extra one that I had to have given to someone as I can not find it. You can find them on eBay though.

[Amazon: Watch Repairer's Manual]

Good luck!!



Regards,
Larry