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Picture of Bob Williams
posted
Can someone decode..... o3g7p

This is a 16s (what does the s mean ?)

Grade 293 I know it is a 7 jewel .... I assume that is what the 7 is in the code.

I checked the shugart but the codes don't seem to match , what am I missing ?


Bob Williams
 
Posts: 52 | Location: Toledo, Ohio in the USA | Registered: March 05, 2008
Picture of Sheila Gilbert
posted
Hi Bob, Welcome!

o3g7p

Open Face
3/4 plate
gold gilded (the plates will have a gold color to them)
7 means it's a model 7
P means it's pendant set.

You can find the answer to it all here

http://elginwatches.org/databases/watch_codes.html

These are the codes to Elgin watches.

If it's an Elgin, then you can go here, and see all of the information and the explanation by using the Elgin database search first, post the serial number in the search area, get the information, and then check out the codes.
http://elginwatches.org/databases/elgin_sn_intro.html

Hope this helps


Sheila
 
Posts: 3094 | Location: La Plata, Maryland U.S.A. | Registered: May 22, 2004
Picture of Bob Williams
posted
Thanks Sheila for the great information. I am still not sure about what the s after the size means 16s.

I also have another simple question ( I hope ). I have acquired several reasonably priced (cheap) watches. Most of them do not work but I have two that do. They are all Elgins so the information you gave me is most helpful. The question is ..... how tight and how often to wind them. The one runs really well but I want to be careful not to over wind. The other winds up ok but requires a tap to get it started. It also seems that if I wind it tight there is a slippage of some kind and the tension goes out of the winding. when I wind again the tension increase and then slips again. I assume that this means the center of the main spring is not properly anchored or there is some sort of over winding protection in the watch.

The more I learn the more questions I have. Thanks again for everyones time and attention.


Bob Williams
 
Posts: 52 | Location: Toledo, Ohio in the USA | Registered: March 05, 2008
posted
Bob,
I am probably the wrong one to answer as I am a collector not a repairman.

Having said that, It is not possible to overwind. The slippage you feel is either a broken mainspring or the end or the spring is off the winding barrel.

If you wind it up and still have to tap it to get it running, something is wrong. Maybe a broken jewel or bent staff. Hard to believe just dirt can do that.

regards,

Bill Kapp
 
Posts: 881 | Location: Arroyo Grande, California USA | Registered: February 22, 2004
Picture of Bob Williams
posted
Thank you Bill for your comments , I can use all the hrlp I can get.


Bob Williams
 
Posts: 52 | Location: Toledo, Ohio in the USA | Registered: March 05, 2008
Picture of Bill Carlson
posted
Sheila, Thanks for the information on the Elgins. Its always nice to know where to go looking for the answers. Some of this stuff is hard to find without some help. Smile


Bill Carlson
 
Posts: 431 | Location: Billings, Montana USA | Registered: February 05, 2007
IHC Life Member
Picture of David Abbe
posted
On your first thread entry question about 16s, "16s" refers to the American numbered "size (s) of the watch. A 16s is about 1.700" in Diameter at the Dial face of the movement, while an 18s is 1.766". The 18s in the case often looks Huuuge next to a 16s, but that is the radical difference in case size, not the actual movements.

Overwinding is not an option, all Mainsprings can be fully wound without harm if they are in a properly maintained watch.
The slippage can be caused by too many possible problems to even list, but the most common are
1. Broken Mainspring.
2. Loose winding wheel screw (unlikely on an Elgin which uses a left hand thread for the wind wheel) that will "ratchet" when the watch is almost fully wound.
3. Spring disengaged in barrel (almost the same as broken.
If you have to tap a watch to "get it started", please set it aside until it can be cleaned and fixed.
Enjoy the watch that is working and do practice on the "parts" watches you have while keeping all the things you take off in the same can with that watch.
 
Posts: 6492 | Location: Southern California in the USA | Registered: July 19, 2007
Picture of Bob Williams
posted
David, as usual you are a fount of clear and concise answers to my frquent questions.

I am working on building work trays for each of the "parts" watches I will be working on. They will be about 6"x6" trays with a Masonite back and 1"x2" sides , I will then hinge a piece of Plexiglases over the top with some sort of a latching mechanism. I will make a row of small boxes of styrene that will be mounted below the hinged side for holding parts. Each watch that is being worked on can be stored in a latched box with a clear top so the watch can be moved, stored and viewed without fear of loosing or mixing parts. Based on how small the screws are I may have to seal the joints, possibly with silicon caulk to keep small scrws from getting lodged in the joints.

I have a question of what to line the base of the box with. I was thinking felt , to protect the finish on the watch and to keep small parts from bouncing about. Anyone have any other suggestions ? I am waiting for the arrival of tools I have ordered based on your suggestions before I actually start working on any watches.

thanks again for everything.


Bob Williams
 
Posts: 52 | Location: Toledo, Ohio in the USA | Registered: March 05, 2008
IHC Life Member
Picture of David Abbe
posted
For storage some of us go to Walmart and get the bead kit thingy's pictured below. For working on the watches you might build yourself an elevated "bench" so the watches are at about chin level when you are fussing with them.

 
Posts: 6492 | Location: Southern California in the USA | Registered: July 19, 2007
IHC Life Member
Picture of David Abbe
posted
The raised work surface makes it much easier to see what you are doing and not drop everything. The picture is from my pocket watch class, and you can see generally what everybody was doing. Also notice the top surface of the bench is light blue or white, and everybody has a light of some sort for making everything more visible.

 
Posts: 6492 | Location: Southern California in the USA | Registered: July 19, 2007
Administrative Assistant
Picture of Dr. Debbie Irvine
posted

Thanks Dave!

 
Posts: 5374 | Location: Northern Ohio in the U.S.A. | Registered: December 04, 2002
IHC Member
posted
Hey Bob! I read some of your posts and have had the same problems;a big help is a white sheet (or such) taped from the edge of your work-desk to the floor and even under your chair. It will save a few headaches when you drop screws,hands,etc.And you will drop them! Also see this site -www.thewatchguy.com- for some tips (not all!) on cleaning and oiling for beginners-it got me started. And the perfect 1st book(get it used for$5) is "Watch Repairing as a hobby" by D.W.Fletcher...These two things will answer 90% of your questions...For now! Good luck,my friend-


Marty
 
Posts: 506 | Registered: October 26, 2007
IHC Life Member
Picture of David Abbe
posted
And the second book (if you already downloaded the mil watch repair manual) is "The Watch Repairer's Manual" by H.B.Fried.
I maintain some sort of sanity by using an apron ($3.98 @ Wal Mart) with some velcro sewn to the bottom hem and a matching velcro strip on the table under my raised watch bench. It has saved me countless "lost" parts, and better yet all that wear and tear on my hands and knees.

 
Posts: 6492 | Location: Southern California in the USA | Registered: July 19, 2007
Picture of Bob Williams
posted
Great stuff.... thanks to all of you.

Just a note here in Toledo we got 6" of snow last night , guess we'll be hunting eggs with galoshes on ...

Happy Easter to all.....


Bob Williams
 
Posts: 52 | Location: Toledo, Ohio in the USA | Registered: March 05, 2008
IHC Life Member
Picture of David Abbe
posted
Hide them in the house!
 
Posts: 6492 | Location: Southern California in the USA | Registered: July 19, 2007
Picture of Edward Kitner
posted
Dave,
Could you post some pics of that neat raised bench you have there?

Ed
 
Posts: 1488 | Location: New York State in the USA | Registered: March 04, 2008
IHC Member
posted
NICE apron,Dave-I never knew such a thing existed. My back screams at me when I drop something,and nobody likes being yelled at! Thanks for the info'. Big Grin


Marty
 
Posts: 506 | Registered: October 26, 2007
Administrative Assistant
Picture of Dr. Debbie Irvine
posted

Ed,

Dave has posted some detailed images in the following topic

My Workbench and where I got it


Thanks for the sharing information about how to organize a work bench! Very nice.

Debbie

Smile
 
Posts: 5374 | Location: Northern Ohio in the U.S.A. | Registered: December 04, 2002
Picture of Ted Steuernagel
posted
Hi David, That apron is a great idea going to Walmart this weekend.if i had that on when my min hand drop i would not still be looking for it.Great post David. Ted
 
Posts: 335 | Location: Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania U.S.A. | Registered: November 23, 2002
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