I realize these aren't particularly rare, but I'm really fascinated by these celluloid dials. Despite some fading, this one is particularly nice, with no splits or warping.
Posts: 183 | Location: Corte Madera, California USA | Registered: March 31, 2005
Although it's almost impossible to see in the photo, there's a lovely train image lightly stamped or engraved into the celluloid, surrounded by a keystone frame. It's easy to see when tilting it in the light but only in certain angles. Is there any way to fill this in to show up better? I tried a water-paint but it merely beads up and wipes right off. I don't want to risk anything that might stain the material.
Posts: 183 | Location: Corte Madera, California USA | Registered: March 31, 2005
The movement is also a delight, with a damaskeened gilt 15J movement and intact mica dust cover. These Keystones aren't high-grade but they're very appealing! This also has the advantage of being in an absolutely flawless hunting case. It was my favorite find in Daytona last week.
Posts: 183 | Location: Corte Madera, California USA | Registered: March 31, 2005
Hi Rene, These dials are wonderful and ephemeral. I've owned two, of which, the better one had a dial about as visible as yours. This was 15-20 years ago but I remember facing the same quandry regarding the touchy issue of enhancing the lines. I've only done this once but I was very happy with the result.
The task is akin to putting the ink into the scratched lines of a scrimshawed whale tooth. The problem is that, the worn celluloid lines can't retain any ink better than the rest of the dial; not to mention the potential danger of staining the dial.
Here's what I came up with. I first cleaned and rubbed the dial to polish it carefully to facilitate the cleaning of the parts I wanted to be white. I lit a candle and held it under a piece of metal to get some carbon "stove black". I loaded this into my fingerprint by rubbing it and then rubbed it into the dial. It took several tries to get the black to stick to the lines after wiping off the dial. Using toothpicks to carefully wipe the black away from where it wasn't wanted was not hard. There was no staining at all on the rest of the dial and it turned out great.
I doubt there is a sanctioned procedure for this but I can recommend this because there isn't a danger of doing any harm. Give it a whirl! -Cort p.s.- I gotta add another fiendish trick I figured out regarding finding a new piece of kidney-shaped mica for the dust proof window. The yellowed mica window from another watch can be easily sliced into two clear ones with a razor blade. It's a very satisfying proceedure should you ever get the chance to use it.
Posts: 536 | Location: El Cerrito, California U.S.A. | Registered: October 04, 2004
Cort -- Thanks so much for your helpful tip. I didn't have time to try it out until this morning, but I'm quite happy with the results. You can compare the photo below with the one I originally posted to see what a difference it makes. I was not able to fill in every single line in the engraving, but I realized that's a good thing -- without some "fading" it wouldn't look consistent with the rest of the dial. As it stands, it's clear enough even without a loupe to at least see there is indeed a train enclosed within a keystone, and I think that is a huge visual improvement.
Posts: 183 | Location: Corte Madera, California USA | Registered: March 31, 2005
Now you need to find an original set of Keystone hands.. The pictured set is minus the keystone second hand.. The tail is shaped like the hour and minute hand , but is solid, not open..Charles gilt hand set was also avalible on these dust proofs.......
Posts: 638 | Location: Green Bay, Wisconsin USA | Registered: November 22, 2002
I'd love to find a set of hands but something tells me they may not be all that easy to find....
Are there any good sources of information on the various Keystone (and Lancaster Watch Co.) variations? I've scoured the web and what books I have here but there are more questions than answers with these watches.
Posts: 183 | Location: Corte Madera, California USA | Registered: March 31, 2005
Hi Rene, I'm pleased that you tried the "soot" method and that it went well.
As to Keystone/Lancaster info, I am not aware of any general resource, but if you can put the info you need into the form of a question... There is a fellow up in Washington named Greg Davis who has been keeping a research database for several years who might be able to help you out. I'll take a look for his address and e-mail it to you. -Cort
Posts: 536 | Location: El Cerrito, California U.S.A. | Registered: October 04, 2004
Many thanks for the offer, I'll keep that in mind if I can't find a set...
This begs a question -- are Keystone hands always supposed to have the keystone shape? I've seen a lot of them that have more ordinary hands. Could all of those have been replaced over the years? I've seen enough variations in dials to make me curious about possible variation in hands, but I'm no expert in this realm so I'm eager to learn!
Posts: 183 | Location: Corte Madera, California USA | Registered: March 31, 2005
Adding to the question about what hands are correct, I found this picture online tonight. I have to wonder if the distinctive keystone-shaped hands that are so appealing were always used, or if typical hands are sometimes correct on Keystone watches....
Posts: 183 | Location: Corte Madera, California USA | Registered: March 31, 2005
Well, actually, those hands don't appear right to me. The minute looks a bit short and thin. The two Keystone's I've had with the celluloid dials both sported spade hands that I believe were correct though. -Cort
Posts: 536 | Location: El Cerrito, California U.S.A. | Registered: October 04, 2004
In my experience I have seen both styles on all Keystones, enamel dial and composition dials.. The light spade in Blue and Gold color and the Keystone hands in Blue and Gold color..I would not say one is right and the other is wrong, maybe just a preference for one style....
Posts: 638 | Location: Green Bay, Wisconsin USA | Registered: November 22, 2002
Keystone was the last of the "pre-Hamilton" companies, based on the remains of the defunct Lancaster Watch Co., in turn built upon the dead Adams & Perry company. All of those companies operated out of the same factory building, constructed in Lancaster, PA by Adams & Perry in 1874, and which Hamilton took over in 1893, (It still stands today,converted to condominiums.) The Keystone incarnation ran from about 1886 to 1891. There seems to be a lot of confusion over the various corporations, which shared many of the same shareholders, and there was also overlap of the movement production, with (for example) some Lancaster movements being completed by Keystone.
Posts: 183 | Location: Corte Madera, California USA | Registered: March 31, 2005
I am just not 'up' on any of the pre-Hamilton companies, though I read posts by folks who just carry on and on about these particular watches. I appreciate your answer very much.
HIGH regards! Mark
Posts: 3837 | Location: Estill Springs, Tennessee, USA | Registered: December 02, 2002
I certainly don't profess to be an expert in these but I'm fascinated by them simply because there is a Hamilton connection, especially since some of the key players in the pre-Hamilton companies were also founders of Hamilton. And, of course, the watches were made in the same factory.
I wish there were more information in print, I'd love to learn more about the subject. Don Sauers did a good job of laying out the basic corporate story in "Time for America" but there doesn't seem to be much in print about the watches themselves. There's a lot to learn, and that's what makes it fun.
Posts: 183 | Location: Corte Madera, California USA | Registered: March 31, 2005