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New Haven hand clutch question "Click" to Login or Register 
posted
I have a New Haven mantle clock with a hand clutch that slips. I failed to take the appropriate picture of the movement to view the assembly of the clutch, so am not completely positive it is back together correctly. I don't know if it slipped before I disassembled and cleaned. But it can't go together much differently. The spring pushes the wheel up against a brass washer resting against a small shoulder on the arbor, engaging the clutch. I am a little puzzled about the design - it seems as if when the clutch is engaged, the spring and the brass cone turn with the wheel. The brass cone bears on the back plate as does the shoulder against the front plate, adding a lot of friction to the movement, I think. But that seems to be the design. Oiling these contact points makes the clutch engage better, but it seems likely it will slip in the future. Does this seem correct? Any ideas about how to improve the hand clutch on this clock? Thanks for any suggestions.

 
Posts: 4 | Location: Gunnison, Colorado in the USA | Registered: January 10, 2010
posted
DAVID,THE CENTER ARBOR IS NO DIFFERENT THAN ANY OTHER ARBOR IN A CLOCK MOVEMENT IT HAS TO HAVE END PLAY THE CONE SHAPED BUSHING THAT IS RESTING AGAINST THE BACKPLATE SHOULD BE FORWARD OF THE SHOULDER BY AT LEAST 1/64 OF AN INCH, I ASSUME FROM WHAT YOU SAID THAT YOU REMOVED THE BUSHING AND SPRING WHEN YOU SERVICED THE CLOCK IF SO THE BUSHING CANNOT BE RETURNED TO ITS PROPER PLACE BECAUSE IT IS SUPPOSED TO BE A GOOD PRESS FIT ON THE ARBOR COSEQUENTLY YOU HAVE TO DRILL A SMALL HOLE THROUGH THE CENTER OF THE SHAFT AND INSTALL A PIN IN OTHER WORDS THE PIN WILL BE FORWARD OF THE SHOULDER BY AT LEAST 1/8 OF AN INCH SO THE BUSHING WILL REST AGAINST THE PIN AND THE ONLY THING THAT TOUCHES THE BACK PLATE IS THE ARBOR SHOULDER. THE TENSION WILL THEN BE BETWEEN THE BACK SIDE OF THE PINION AND THE FRONT OF THE PIN. I HOPE THIS HELPS. EDDIE
 
Posts: 140 | Location: St. Paul, Minnesota in the USA | Registered: June 11, 2008
posted
Eddie, thanks much for the response. I see what you mean - if the cone shaped bushing was pressed on, it would hold tension between the backside of the pinion and the front of the cone shaped bushing, allowing end play. I did not remove the bushing, spring, and washer for servicing - they fell off when I removed the top plate and wheel. The bushing is cracked, thus explaining why it fell off and is no longer a press fit. Maybe I can make a new one with the lathe. By the way, there is no arbor shoulder between the bushing and the backplate, thus not sure the pin idea will work. The washer I mentioned I placed between the top of the wheel and the upper shoulder on the arbor (hidden in the darkness of the photo just under the top plate). I am not at all sure this is correct. The other locations it could go are between the bottom of the pinion and the spring, or between the spring and the cone shaped bushing. Any idea about the correct location? Again, thanks so much! Dave
 
Posts: 4 | Location: Gunnison, Colorado in the USA | Registered: January 10, 2010
posted
DAVID, IS THE BACK PIVOT ON THE CENTER SHAFT THE SAME SIZE AS THE SHAFT? THEN THE CONE SHAPED BUSHING MUST HAVE ACTED AS THE SHOULDER. EDDIE
 
Posts: 140 | Location: St. Paul, Minnesota in the USA | Registered: June 11, 2008
posted
Eddie - yes it is. I agree, the cone shaped bushing must act as the shoulder against the back plate. Any idea about the washer location? Thanks again!
 
Posts: 4 | Location: Gunnison, Colorado in the USA | Registered: January 10, 2010
posted
DAVID, THE WASHER GOES BEHIND THE PINION SO THAT THE END OF THE SPRING WILL HAVE A BEARING SURFACE.WHEN YOU INSTALL YOUR NEW BUSHING MAKE SURE YOU HAVE END PLAY AND ALSO MAKE SURE YOU DONOT HAVE TO MUCH TENSION. EDDIE
 
Posts: 140 | Location: St. Paul, Minnesota in the USA | Registered: June 11, 2008
posted
Eddie - thanks much for the advice!
Dave
 
Posts: 4 | Location: Gunnison, Colorado in the USA | Registered: January 10, 2010
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