Internet Horology Club 185
HELP on syncing this Ansonia Clock. FINISHED
December 03, 2011, 15:41Patrick Wallin
HELP on syncing this Ansonia Clock. FINISHED
Just acquired an Ansonia. It's in a cast iron case with a wood floor and brass frame and train. I tore it completely down, cleaned and reassembled it and it runs great but I can't seem to sync it to the gong.
Does anyone have a dial?????? (Face plate) Even a overlay would work for now.
December 20, 2011, 15:37Tom Brunton
Been There !!! Done That , Patrick !!! I took a half dozen apart long ago ,and got none to strike correctly ever again!!
So one day I met and befriended George Werden of St. Marys Ontario who fixed clocks, and he did them for me for nearly 40 years,just stopped last year as he's in his 80s, a prince of a guy ,and his late wife Marion was a real peach as well, 2 superb human beings!! Now I let the springs off with a let down, clean the movement, and occasionally boil the movement after cleaning to dislodge gum in the pivots,then re-oil the pivots,wind the springs and off they go!!! Works great for me, and I, long,long ago ,gave up on my sadly failed career as a clock strike re-setting technician .
December 20, 2011, 19:39Tom Brunton
PS::: I think the dial is fine as is, Patrick, after all it's very old!!! Is there a bezel and glass missing? Or did it not have one?
December 26, 2011, 12:17Bill Carlson
What do you mean, you can't sync it to the gong? You have to have the strike count lever dropped into the deepest slot on the strike count wheel and the other lever that rides on a round disk with a cut out section dropped into the notch on that disk. If I remember right there are two sets of levers. One for the strike count and the other that lifts the strike counter and it rides on the disk with the notch and when it drops into the notch the strike lever 'finger' drops into the deepest slot on the count wheel.
I hope this gives you a little more of an idea of what to look for. Its hard for me to explain, but I hope this helps.
You need one of Steven Conover's books that explains more than I can. clockmakersnewsletter.com
Let us know how you do!
December 26, 2011, 12:21Bill Carlson
Oh yes, I wouldn't change a thing with the face. Its and old clock and should have the old original in my opinion. I have on just about identical to yours. The top of the my case if flat. They are made to sit tight on the mantel thru earthquakes!!
January 06, 2012, 15:42Patrick Wallin
Tom, Thanks for your reply. Yes there is a bezel and glass. I guess I must have cleaned it up too good as I can't see it in the photo either.
January 06, 2012, 15:49Patrick Wallin
Bill. As i watch it, it works just fine but as soon as I take my eyes off it will sometimes gong 15 times. Years ago someone made (Definitely home made & wrapped wire) two springs of very fine springy wire and they were loose so I removed them and it made no difference that I can tell. One seemed to try to help the indent lever lift, They were on the shaft that has all the bent rods affixed to it. The gong rod, the drop rod and trigger rod. I don't know what else to call them. (it) We have decided to leave the face. It is what seems to make the clock.
January 07, 2012, 20:20Patrick Wallin
I just found out why it sometimes skips a beat with the gong. I used weights to make it fall into the deep slots with a positive motion and that is not the way to go. Even with the weight it would sometimes bounce out of the slot and just keep going. Gong, gong, gong. I used an old broken mainspring out of a 12s Elgin cut to proper length and soldered it to a pillar mount bushing. Just a little tension on the lift arm keeps it from bouncing out of the slot & it seems to work great. The weights were removed.
The original springs that were removed and replaced years ago are now sections of a broken mainspring.
Maybe this is why they call us watchmakers, although we have never made a watch in our lives, we understand the principal of mechanics and can always come up with an idea. I have a degree in mechanical Science from 1967 and several mechanical graduation certificates from the late 60's and worked a an automotive mechanic for Ford and Chrysler Corporation for over 30 years. I owned a automotive Machine Shop for 5 years, sold it and went to long haul truck driving for 3 years and then bagged it and retired. I like to play with these little guys, clocks and pocket watches. It keeps me busy, there is a little money in it, it's enjoyable to get a basket case and turn it into a working antique for sale!!!!
January 09, 2012, 22:35Bill Carlson
Pat, The coil brass wire springs are what the original springs should be. They shouldn't need a lot of pressure, but some. This would be the correct repair.
May 04, 2012, 14:55Michael Riska
Patrick, On the rear of the wheel that turns the fan there is a pin that sticks out toward the rear plate. There is an arm that touches the pin and that is what stops the strike train. It is attached to the arm that drops into the notch on the center? wheel. When the Count lever drops into the proper noth on thr count wheel and the lever drops into the notch on the disc ,That lever should just touch the pin on the fan wheel and stop the strike train. Clear as mud I'm afraid but you should be able to see what happens. Mike