Internet Horology Club 185
Ultra-Thin Private Label Audemars Piguet Pocket Watch

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https://ihc185.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/3426047761/m/8551009102

January 22, 2006, 17:33
Ethan Lipsig
Ultra-Thin Private Label Audemars Piguet Pocket Watch
I own a lovely, ultra-thin (3mm, including crystal) Audemars Piguet pocket watch to which a prior owner's bone-headed watchmaker fitted the wrong balance staff. My watchmaker cannot find a replacement and cannot fabricate one without a correct model to follow.

I would be grateful if any of you could (1) supply me with the correct balance staff, (2) let me know the caliber number of the movement, which will help me find a replacement staff; (3) direct me to someone who could supply me with a replacement; or (4) supply specifications that would permit my watchmaker to fabricate a perfect replacement staff.

My pocket watch has a 17 ligne movement, #16744 B. It is in an 18k Audemars Piguet case also numbered 16744.


January 22, 2006, 17:34
Ethan Lipsig
Here is the movement.


January 22, 2006, 17:35
Ethan Lipsig
Here is the balance wheel.


January 22, 2006, 18:15
Ethan Lipsig
The movement has 16 jewels and 7 adjustments.
January 23, 2006, 01:37
Mike Miller
Audemars Piguet is still making watches. They might be able to give you more technical info. They also sell parts.

Here's contact info:

Audemars Piguet
545 Madison Ave.
New York, NY 10022
Ph: (212) 758-8400
Fax: (727) 467-4248
January 23, 2006, 22:01
Cort Moore
Ethan,
What a beauty! A pal of mine picked up one of these ultra-slim watches at a garage sale. He is yet in need of a staff too. I did get to check it out though. I don't think it would be a good watch for me. It would be like trying to walk with a potato chip in your pocket!

Mike's suggestion of contacting Audemar's is certainly wise to explore. But, if that doesn't pan out I think you are looking for a very expert watchmaker. Staff dimensions can be deduced without the advantage of a sample; much the same way one would replace a missing stem that was no longer available. It'll run you some bucks but I think your watch is worthy of first class attention. Good luck and thank you for sharing the photos. Nice watch!
-Cort
January 24, 2006, 01:57
Ethan Lipsig
I followed Mike's advice and called Audemars today. A Swiss-accented woman in its Florida office assured me that Audemars would be able to repair my pocket watch if I sent it to the Audemars watch sanatorium in Geneva. Althogh I remember all too well the expensive sojourn one of my Patek Philippes spent in the mid-80's in the Patek sanatorium in Geneva, I will send my Audemar off for its no-doubt expensive Swiss vacation tomorrow. Before doing so, I cannot resist attaching a photo showing how thin it is in comparison to an even thinner Cartier, a thicker stack of two quarters, and a very thick Hamilton 400.


January 24, 2006, 03:00
Cort Moore
Ethan,
Good decision.
Perhaps I'll see you in Pasadena in a couple of weeks where I'll have a table. I would really like to see the Cartier if it's not asking too much. My friend's watch that I mentioned above is in that league of thin-ness. I've heard that these highly prized super thin watches were once coveted because they were easy to conceal when necessary(in the soles of shoes during wartime for instance).
-Cort
January 24, 2006, 03:14
Ethan Lipsig
Unfortunately, I will be on the East Coast during the GLAR, but here are a few shots of the platinum and diamond Cartier (which is in good working order).


January 24, 2006, 03:15
Ethan Lipsig
Here is the back of the case, with initials for AE Lefcourt, the premier builder of skyscrapers in NY in the 20's, from whose grandson I bought the watch.


January 24, 2006, 03:16
Ethan Lipsig
And here is the movement.


January 24, 2006, 03:54
Ethan Lipsig
Jerry Treinam e-mailed me asking for more information on, and pictures of, the Hamilton 400. It is in 18k yellow gold "Bok" Hamilton case, which is one of the styles in which the watch was originally sold, case #092977 S&W, movement number H2125. I confess to having the dial refinished, because it had an unacceptable (and unexpected) dent when I acquired it, but the refinisher did an excellent job, and the watch appears virtually new.


January 24, 2006, 03:55
Ethan Lipsig
Here is the back of the Hamilton.


January 24, 2006, 03:57
Ethan Lipsig
This is the Hamilton's movement.


January 24, 2006, 11:09
Jerry Treiman
Ethan - thanks for posting the extra pictures of both watches!