If you take everything but the balance and balance bridge out of a watch, what should you do next? I 've removed one plate (a long time ago) and I'm pretty sure the mainspring unwound without my adequately controlling it.

Everything looks okay (?). But I'm not sure how or what to do next. I've looked in a few books, but maybe not the right place. Should I take out the balance or leave it in? I also haven't taken out the winding mechanism, which I plan to do.

How should I clean it? I don't want to use toxic substances any more because I'm sure my brain is already fried from the ones I've used on collages etc. Is there any mixture that isn't toxic? Also how much is small cleaning machine?

The watch is a small, probably size 6, standard watch.

Advice would be appreciated.

Jessica

Hi Jessica.What books have you looked at so far?I highly recommend Henry Fried,s Watch Repairers manual.
Usually before i do assembly of a movement i remove the balance with it attached to the balance bridge.The power should be let down with a bench key before any disasembly begins, serious damage can ocurr if the the mainspring is just let go of and it unwinds with no control of it.
Basic tools should be bought before some of this work starts.If you go to the green board there is also good information on the subject.
With any thing as technical as watch repair you have to do some preparation before you start tearing down a watch.
I know you have heard this many times before but you can,t do too much research on the subject of watch repair.
I am not trying to sound harsh but sucess only happens when you do things in a orderly way and do it the same way always as short cuts will only cause you grief in the end.
I have made mistakes and i am not a expert but just trying to pass on advice and a little experience that i have gained from others donating their valuable time to me.And i do value the expertise from all people who have helped me so far.

Jessica,

Kevin provides some good advice.

I've worked on just about everything mechanical but before I took my first watch apart, I purchased a vido tape about the subject. It consisted mainly of how to disassemble and clean a pocket watch. There's nothing like watching over someone's shoulder to get a good grasp on how to do things. The video tape allowed me to do this in the privacy of my own home. Along with the video, I purchased the book by Fried that Kevin refers to.

Jessica,
Very good advice from Kevin and John. Ditto on Fried`s Manual.
As Kevin stated, it`s best to remove the balance and arm as the first step in disassembly. Out of harm`s way, so to speak.
It`s a good idea for the beginner to make a sketch of the various parts and thier orientation as he/she disassembles them unless one has access to a watchmaker or an accurate diagram of the particular movement. Otherwise you are bound to forget where something goes or install a part backward, upside down, etc.
The balance wheel and hairspring should be removed from the arm and cleaned separately. Generally the hairspring may not require cleaning. Also if the mainspring barrel is to be cleaned the mainspring must be removed.
I hesitate to advise on "non-toxic" cleaning solutions. Almost everyone reccomends the commercial cleaning and rinsing solutions. However I have manually cleaned watch parts using a mixture of Dawn liquid dishwashing detergent, a small amount of household ammonia and warm water. It worked o.k. for me but may not for you so use at your own risk. I accept no blame for rust spots or oxidation. When using any water-based cleaner a proper rinse and PROMPT and THOROUGH drying is a necessity.
Hope I am not leading you "astray"!

The books I used were Camm and another one, but neither of them said much about removing the dial. It came off today after a fair amount of cleaning around the edges and very careful lifting to see which parts were still stuck.

Do you read the books even when you're not working on a watch, or have them out as reference guides that you look at before and while you're working?

Jessica

Jessica, it,s a good idea as mentioned to buy or borrow the tapes John mentioned.I watch them over and over and it refreshes my mind.
Another thing not mentioned was what kind of watch to start on.I would not start on anything smaller than a 16 sz and i would choose a Elgin 7 to 11 jewel movement.Smaller movements are more difficult to work on and some watches such as Ny Standard are not great for a beginer to start on.
On Ebay a decent watch can usually be found and or if you make a request on this forum in the wanting to buy section, someone may have something.
I read about watches alot in my spare time and surf the net looking and reading pocket watch information.The Henry Fried book is a great book and not that expensive either if you buy it from chez willy from ebay.

Aha! Dial removal ... it was in the thread title but got lost in the discussion. Dials are properly held on in a few different ways.

Most American watches have three dial feet. Some have four, and perhaps some of the cheaper ones have two. These are held in place by taper pins on some of the old keywinds or by dial screws in the edge of the movement. Usually the dial screws can be backed out part way, but if you are unsure take them out completely. After removing the dial screws or taper pins the dial should lift off the front of the movement. Do this carefully and evenly so you don't crack the dial. Don't force anything.

Some American (notably Howard) and many high-grade European watches have snap-on dials. The dial is held in a thin bezel that fits friction tight around the edge of the movement. These can be carefully nudged off the pillar plate, working around the edge to lift it evenly.

Many inexpensive Swiss movement have two dial feet that are held in the back of the pillar plate by a notched screw that nips into a notch in the dial foot. Turn these screws so the foot is cleared and the dial will lift off. These screws usually cannot be completely removed until the dial is off.

Dollar watches have metal dials that are held on in other methods with which I am not as familiar. English watches use any of the above methods.

Also, if the dial does not seem to want to come off, watch out for improper methods of attaching the dial, such as glue or dial dots.

The dials on most American made watches are held on by three tiny screws spaced around the circumference of the dial plate. These screws work as "set-screws" and clamp the copper dial feet. Several counter-clockwise turns are enough to disengage them. If you unscrew them too much they will come out. If cleaning a movement it may be best to remove them entirely and put in a safe place, lest they get lost in the cleaning process. Never use force on a dial, especially porcelain or fractures are bound to occur. The dial should slip off and on with slight manipulation. If not the screws are not loose enough or the dial feet could be slightly bent.
When I am planning a repair job I will get "Fried`s Manual" or his "Bench Practices" out and read that particular section a time or two to get the procedure in my head. If I don`t fully understand the repair, don`t have the tool, or have questions I try to reconcile my thoughts by using other sources such as this message board. I make sure I at least can follow and understand the procedure before I even touch the watch. When I start the repair I use the book as a step by step guide.
Three things that should become routine in your mind before most repairs are; Remove hands, Remove balance assembly and Letting down the power in the mainspring.

EDIT- Jerry covered the dial thing much better than I did but since I didn`t see it until I finished typing I am posting my original response.

Kenny, I am glad you posted too, as you added some more detail to the 3-dial-screw situation that makes it clearer.

I might also add that your three-point routine should probably put letting down the mainspring first. On watches with a visible click I do this while the movement is still in the case (no need then for the bench key). In the not-too-common instance of a cylinder, duplex or verge escapement you must let down the power before removing the balance assembly.

Good answers Kenny and Jerry.I also missed original question dial removal.I think sometimes it is sugested to use a bench key as if a crown is worn down and may slip and your fingers and you might loose control of letting down the spring.
I am sure experienced people let down the spring with the movement in the watch just thought i would point it out for others who have less experience.
Like i always say, i am not a expert just a opinion.

Jessica,

I find fusee's are all pins and American watches are almost always 3 screws.
Look around the edge of the dial,or in the case of fusee's,look for the Feet and pins.

If you need to force it more then a very little,something is not yet right.