Forgive the pic, my real camera is toast and a new one is mired in the Global Shipping Program.

Keep in mind that whatever solution is use I won't be doing it myself, I just want to draw on any
experiences here.

16s Gallet Interocean

The lever set on this watch is short enough that it hits the dial which is why it needed a repair.

Also, it snaps back with a vengeance so the repair will be messed up again if I put it back together like this.

Even if there is a way to reduce the snap back the lever will still touch the dial.

Short of having a new longer lever made I wonder if a dot of hard solder could be applied to the edge of the lever . This would prevent it from returning so far and hitting the dial.

There does appear to be enough play that it would not impair the function.

Suggestion/opinions?

It appears that you could open up the arm slightly at or between the "dogleg" (circled) and the lever retaining screw, causing the lever end to stick out slightly more and not impact the dial.

Another possibility is to just unbend the little bent up tip of the lever so that it is does not hit the dial.

Messing with the geometry of these pressed steel levers must be done carefully as the steel hardness is quite unpredictable, but it would be a lot cleaner than a lump of solder.

You know Dave the more I look at this the more I think nothing can de done. Perhaps it is just a function of the case but I don't think there is enough clearance at the bezel to adjust the lever.
The case appears original so I can't fool with that.

Here is the most harsh but seemingly workable option. I can remove that repair with lacquer thinner, there is exposed copper beneath it, then have my watch guy grind out a semi-circle of copper so the lever doesn't hit it. Then I can re-do the repair.

Again, just exploring options but this seems the most feasible. It would not be seen with the bezel on.

I have seen dials where some of the enamel was ground away so a fingernail could catch the lever.

I guess this should have gone in the repair section.

Lorne, try inserting a speck of Rodico where you note "solder" to shim out the lever and see if the bezel still clears. If that works, you should be able to (carefully)open out the lever as suggested to get there.

I have had to actually file down the upright lever end to allow more height clearance. The radial clearance is another issue.

Of course this all assumes the case was originally fitted (or could be if needed) to work with this movement.

Another option then solder would be some J B weld. I once used it to repair a hunter bezel. That was missing the hold down lip. So now it will stay close.

Remember to alway depress the crown when closing your hunter case,,

I am liking the JB Weld/metal epoxy option.

No nasty heating and it can be softened and removed with paint stripper if necessary.

We'll see how it goes, thanks for the input.

If this was my watch i would check the set spring it may have came from another watch and be too strong, you may be able too stretch it a little to make it weaker and reduce the hard snap back in to the wind postion.. Something else and FRIST THING as Dave said i would check is the very end of the set lever and make sure someone has not bent it up making it easier too get hold off..if it is bent up it would make it be much closer too the dial when in the wind postion and could be your problem..

Just my take but.. This watch and it,s parts were made too work from the factory and should still do so without solder or expozy.

I have seen posts where someone poses a question then alienates everyone by constantly disagreeing with the solutions and I don't want to get to that point.

Samie, the lever has not been bent so that is not the issue.

I thought I had found the problem. See photo the lever screw sits slightly proud preventing the dial from sitting down properly. I measured the heads of the two noted and they are different diameters so tried a swap, now the lever screw seats properly on the recess and the dial fits properly.

I put an ever so small bit of epoxy on the lever, filed it down to the point where the lever clears the dial but then had to file the lever ever so slightly for proper radial clearance of the bezel(there is plenty of meat there). Sadly I don't think the epoxy will hold as the snap back problem is still there

Perhaps at one time the lever (where I put the epoxy, was filed down for radial clearance of the bezel. These were made by Gallet for Eaton's so fitting a Canadian case should not be an issue but who knows.

Regarding bending the spring, (which I won't attempt myself) would it not be better to file the part that the spring rides on (which I also will not be doing myself, just asking) to reduce the tension?

Thank you Samie for your insights.

I know a guy who has one from the same run 18 numbers away so will ask him if he can provide some pics and if his snaps back like mine.

Everything works fine as is, there is just the spring tension problem so I am going to leave this watch alone for a while.

Lorne i don,t know if i could do any more than you sound like you are doing okay..

Hard without having the watch in hand but does sounds like a very strong spring..try lossen the screw a little that holds the spring and see if can be rotated a little away from the lever,,
good luck
SAMIE