Hi Experts,
Recently a friend of mine gave me a bow lathe with the arbor frozen.
I hope some one out there will help me unfreeze the arbor and allow the lathe to be resurrected.
I have attached some pictures, as well as a sketch of how I think it is constructed (in an effort to determine how to UNFREEZE it).
I have made up names for the various parts and hope they do not add confusion.
This is not a BOW CUTTER but a poor man's lathe with a bow to drive the rotation.
I think the construction is as follows...
The Arbor is steel, the Body is brass, the Bow drive is lead, the retaining ring is steel.
The arbor does NOT rotate in the body NOW.
There are some signs of rust between the left of the body and the arbor (not visible in the images).
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Mel
More pictures to come

#2

#3

#4

#5

#6

A steel arbor can not rust to brass parts. Corrode, maybe but that's a big if. Will the retaining ring move?
Personally I would soak it over night in a penetrating fluid such as PB fluid or any good penetrating oil available at most auto parts stores. Then after a good soaking see if it will break lose.

I do not think that the rust formed between the brass and the steel, but between the steel and some water that got to the steel over a period of time while the lathe sat in a draw.
I have tried a few days in a penetrating fluid, with no success (yet).
Thanks for the input so far.
Mel

P-B blaster and patience

They make some stuff called Kroll hope I spelled that correctly. That stuff works wonders

Is Kroll a common hardware product or automotive?
Mel

Hi Mel, I think Wayne is talking about "Kroil" - and can be found at www.kanolabs.com
This works very well for rusted watch tools.

Mobil and Shell both make an extremely thin viscosity oil for high speed spindles and electric motors that have bushings precision fitted to the shaft for extra high speed operation. Shell name is Spindle 10 and Mobil name is Velocite 10. They are turbine quality and have no zinc or other additives. I used either for years on my old 1932 Ford, 1940 Ford and 1939 Lincoln Zephyr U-Bolt nuts and front perch bolts on axles with xxxxxxx miles and rusted beyond help, and I have a 3 oz. bottle of Velocite 10 with a level teaspoon of white wine vinegar that will penetrate anything I have ever needed. Just a suggestion for another source.

Kroil smells terrible, but it works better than any other penetrating oil I have ever found.