I've got a 10s Howard that,other than the dial, just looks almost unused.The dial has one area that the numbers are almost gone, kind of looks like they were almost"wiped off" or something because the rest still look OK.My problem is I'd like to get the dial off to get it restored.I haven't pried or punched anything yet, and would like to get some pointers before doing so.The movement reads: sn 62683,E.Howard Watch Co. Boston USA,17J,3pos.temp,pat'd 21.Thanks, Dale Mc

Dale had without realizing it put his question on the Clock area so I moved it over here for the "watch guys" to see...

Thanks,Lindell,the wife was rushing me to go out to eat.

Dale,

Howard 12 and 10 size dials along with one or two 16-size versions are a "snap fit" and need to be prided off very, very gently. This is why so many of the watches we see of this type have cracked dials.

The fact you say yours is partially "wiped off" leads me to conclude yours is metal. If it is the very same precautions because of course it could bend. A dial refinisher can do a slight amount of straightening if there is a very slight bend after removal.

When putting the dial back on make sure you have the seconds hole lined up correctly or you can easily break the pinion. Caution should be exercised with every watch, but these can really give you fits!

Hope this helps,

Rich Kuhn

NAWCC Member 128623
IHC Member 155

rich_kuhn@email.msn.com

Thanks Rich,knowing that it was indeed a snap fit helped greatly.There were two holes through the movement at 12 & 6, after gently pushing through them to the back of the dial and lifting it slightly I used a razor blade to work around the edge till it was loose, kind of like taking a tire off a wheel,if you've done that.And no dings or dents!Thanks Again, Dale Mc

Along the lines of replacing dials:

Have you ever had one of those dials that had dial feet that didn't line up perfectly and therefore were difficult to press down? One ought to be very careful when doing this in order to avoid adding your own share of hairlines etc. to a dial. One thing that I've found with working on watches is that when something's not going together easily, step back and think about what you're doing. Damage happens quickly and easily if you try to force things.
What I came up with for dealing with stubborn dials allows one to apply a little more pressure while limiting the risk to the dial. I use one of those rubber case openers that's become hard with time to press on the dial. By distributing the pressure equally around the dial by doing this I've had great success with stubborn dials without ruining them. I'm sure that other things like plastic and wood movement holders would give similar results without marring the dial. Good luck.
B