Well we are moving up to bigger and better things. I can tear down a 7j Elgin and put it back together in my sleep. Fun. Is a 940 a good full plate to attempt? Should I get a 7j junker to practice on full plate watches first? The Elgin was a 16s but no problem once I got the hang of it. What do the experts think? Thanks guys,

Aaron Bereiter
NAWCC# 156432
Very Proud IHC Charter #55
We rise highest when we stoop to help others.

Aaron,

A word of caution! A full plate movement is quite a bit different to work on than a bridge model! The anchor fork is in the way of the potence which contains the lower balance jewels, and which is secured UNDER the top bridge! If you remove the TOP plate from the pillar plate, you usually do a number on the pallet arbor. So!

1./ Remove the balance wheel and bridge.

2./ Let the power down and remove the barrel and barrel bridge.

3./ Remove the case screws and bridge screws thar hold the thing together and STOP THERE!

4./ Now! CAREFULLY turn the watch FACE UP, holding it all together with your fingers. Remove the PILLAR PLATE from the top bridge.

Do this, and the pallet arbor will survive. Remember what it looks like, top bridge upside down, because you will need to re-assemble it the same way, in reverse to a bridge model. With the top bridge upside down, put all the train wheels and anchor into position and place the pillar plate over the top bridge, face up. Put everything in place UPSIDE DOWN, then carefully flip it over, holding it together, so you can put the screws back in. Check to be sure everything is where it belongs BEFORE you tighten the screws down. This process you will find to be a challenge for the first few times.

Regards,
Doug S.

Aaron,

Doug is giving GREAT advise on a full plate. You might want to ask yourself at this point... "Self, just why am I dismantling this movement." If it is to fix a problem or to do a complete and thorough cleaning, that is a legitimate reason to tear into a running movement. If on the other hand you are in a learning mode, might I suggest practicing on some movements that are a little less dear to you than a 940.

I found a lot of old movements at a mart and learned the workings and got a lot of great practice. I even got a few of them working and keeping great time.

Let me relate why I advocate this aproach. I got real curious at what was making a Elgin BWR tick, so I dived into it and busted a roller jewel, broke a pallet jewel, and bent the third wheel pivot. BOY I FELT TERRIBLE! I'll never forget the feeling of frustration and guilt at what I'd done. I stepped back and spent the next year or so learning all I could, and getting advice from a watchmaker friend with over 60 years of experience. Once I felt confident enough I went back to the BWR and got her back to snuff.

If you are interested in getting into a full plate movement, I like the ease of the Waltham Model 1883. They are very common and their wide open sides allow you to see whats going on inside.

Also learn all you can about the operations of the various keyless works that are out there. A lot of otherwise great movements are sold for next to nothing because of problems in winding and setting mechanisms. Easiest of all to fix are problems in the stem/sleave systems. There are a lot of various parts involved in this area of the watch, and they should all be removed in a proper cleaning. If the complexity of these setting mechanisms seems daunting, you might look for a KW/KS movement to start on.

Hope I don't sound preachy. I like to hear your enthusiasm. But having damaged a few movements in my learning experience, I thought I'd just share with you the possibility that accidents can happen.

Mike Miller
NAWCC Member# 154831
NAWCC-IHC Charter Member# 27

Thanks for the advice guys. I oun alot of watches that run and just need a clean up. I have several 16s waiting on the cleaning products on their way now. I found the 16s Elgins to be really easy and am confident in all the areas of disassembly and reassembly. I have had this old 7j apart and together so many times its getting boring.
I'll hold off on the 940 right now but it does need a cleaning. Thanks again,

Aaron Bereiter
NAWCC# 156432
Very Proud IHC Charter #55
We rise highest when we stoop to help others.

I have to agree with Mike. Start with a junk 18s. I attempted a Waltham 83 cleaning before I read Dougs very helpfull origonal posting on the method of dismantling and reassemble of 18s watches and I think I used every naughty word I know and even made up a few. I still dont find it easy, but it is a matter of practice, practice practice... and a lot of patience. Have fun and dont get too frustrated!!!

NAWCC Member 157316
IHC Member 156