Can anyone tell me the dimensions of the roller jewel for this watch?
It is S/N 571444 single roller with a round jewel hole in the table that is 52 diameter and a fork opening that is 47. I tried a normal ‘D’ shaped jewel that is 46 diameter, 30 profile, and 120 long, but because the hole in the table is round, it migrates to the center when you heat the shellac. I would think the round surface of the jewel should be against the wall of the hole in the roller table, but this is a first time for me and I could use some coaching. I thought about trying to make up a fixture to hold it in place or possibly a tiny wedge, but there’s gotta be a better way.

Thanks,

Bruce

Bruce,

The easy way is to use a roller setting tool, which holds both the jewel and the table in proper position (such as figure "Q" in the following image: http://members.aol.com/lrhorology/31Tools.JPG ). That'll put an end to any "migration!"

If you don't have a nice roller setting tool, however, you can make do by using a tapered pin. Just adjust the jewel in place, and wedge it against the back of the hole with a tapered pin until you get it set, then remove the pin.

Hope this helps!

-------------------

Steve Maddox
President, NAWCC Chapter #62
North Little Rock, Arkansas

Steve,

Thanks, I'll see if I can make the tapered pin idea work for now, it might be a two beers proposition though. That's a cool bunch of tools, do you have the key to identify the rest?

Bruce

A. Tightener for seconds hand tubes

B. Geared-head screwdriver, marked: "Cumul -- FAVORITE -- Swiss Made"

C. Key gauge for determining size of unmarked watch keys

D. Roller jewel setting tool

E. Not sure -- maybe for hand-cleaning jewels in bezels, marked: "K&D"

F. Banking pin adjustment tool, marked: "France -- 22010"

G. Bow tightener, marked: "Germany"

H. Banking pin adjustment tool, marked: "France -- 22009"

I. Vernier type depth gauge -- hand made

J. Very old seconds hand broaching vise

K. Hand broaching vise, marked: "Pat. May 16, 05"

L. Cannon pinion remover for "Curvex" movements, marked: "Gruen Patent"

M. Hairspring adjustment disk -- hand made

N. Hairspring adjustment disk -- hand made

O. Roller table remover, marked: "Hardinge Bros. - DALE - Chicago, Pat'd Oct. 14, 90"

P. Screw arranging device - SM

Q. Roller jewel setting tool - SM

R. Pallet warmer, marked: "C. Culman Mfgr. - Pat Apr. 17, 06"

S. Cylinder height gauge, hand made

T. Roller table remover

U. Pocket watch holder, marked: "D.R.G.M."

V. Bow tightener

W. Roller jewel setting tool

X. Pivot rounding tool for rounding balance pivot tips

Y. Adjustable mainspring winder, marked: "J. Stark - Waltham Mass. - Pat'd Dec. 29, 1888"

Z. Hairspring index tool, marked: "F.H. Gillette - Pat. - Cortland, N.Y."

1. Adjustable spanner wrench for notched screws and nuts, marked: "Kendrick & Davis"

2. Adjustable spanner wrench for screws and nuts with holes, rather than slots, marked: "Germany"

3. Balance wheel vise for holding compensation balances, marked: "Pat. Mar. 8 - 87"

4. Pallet fork holder, marked: "Specialty Mfg. Co. - Denver, Colo. - Pat. Pend."

5. Roller table remover, marked: "Universal W. Tools, Ltd. - Trademark"

----------------------------

Steve Maddox
President, NAWCC Chapter #62
North Little Rock, Arkansas

Just Wow!

Lindell

Yes Lindell, I'm impressed big time!!! I would love to have some of those little gems.

Thanks Steve, let me know when you decide to clean out your tool box and I'll take some of that old stuff off your hands.

Bruce

Success!!
It was easy once I got into it. I made a little holder for the roller table and a real tiny pointed pin, warmed the holder and table just enough to soften the shellac and then manuvered the roller jewel into position.

On to the next challenge in miniature.