I was playing a bit with Lorch screw head polishing tool to get nice screw head but it seems I have an issue there. There are always some scratches on head, even most of it is polished ok. Ive been trying different compounds, diamond paste, polinoxx, diamantine paste (mixed from powder by myself). I know it should be all clean between polishing disks. Should I prepare those disks before somehow? (I have only iron and brass one, boxwood is on its way).
Ive seen when I do small moves its much better that with full circular motion, best results I have with my diamantine mixture on brass....

So, I would appreciate any comments or advise how to deal with that scratches. Fact is, I just started to learn how to polish properly, so maybe I need just more experience, but Im sure I do something not right here...

Rafal

Hi Rafal,


This may help screw head polishing

I was going to do a series of simple tips and just ran out of time.

Thanks Chris, I missed your video So, Im doing more or less the same, but when I use 20x magnification I can see some scratches. Ive noticed you use full motion moves with laps, for me it means lots of scratches... I clean disks with naphtha and screw with some rodico, maybe I should use naphtha on screw as well? Do you prepare your disks in any ways? Like file surface down or something like that?

Rafal

Rafal,

At 20x that is a huge magnification way beyond normal vision as a rule of thumb if a trained eye cant see any imperfection with a 4-7x it will be more than adequate. If you are putting scratches on with tool (as opposed just not working hard enough at each stage to remove them as you progress, its not quick) you need to clean the laps very carefully even steam the metal ones,inspect then look (20x!)for any fragments embedded maybe polish back on flat steel with lapping paper adjust tool to use new section any marks or gouges will transfer to your work. Replace any old powders, and use a polishing/buffing wax on the last lap, of course ALWAYS clean screw head (& slot) 100% before going down to finer grit. one tiny spec of contamination will tear your work up these tool are very old and past misuse of the tool may mean you need to go back and clean back to as new as possible, you never know what the last guy did!.

https://www.youtube.com/user/rwsmithwatches

Rafal, here is a link to videos by the greatest watchmaker living. Roger Smith.

There are loads of videos of his work.

If you click the link above, then click the tab marked videos, you will be able to find "polishing watch hands".

Video No.10 shows the final stages of polishing watch hands but I'm sure that the same techniques apply to screws.

Several of the points are as stated by Chris Abell who is an experienced watch maker. You should follow his guidance. In the end it comes down to patience and cleanliness and more patience. You cannot hurry faultless polishing.

All the best, Mike

Thanks Guys.

Mike - Ive seen Mr Smith's videos, specially hands polishing one, very interesting, cheers.

Chris - only thing I did recently with polishing disks was to file it a little. Ive read that using abrasive paper can live some stuff on the surface and its not recommended. But I think you are right here - I have to refinish disks to get rid of anything which left after other users. Mr Pahlow recommended to scratch with file iron disk to get good results. I think there are traces of past use on those polishing surfaces, so I will file it a little more and check results. Other thing is that I don't have boxwood disk yet for final polish...

compounds I tested so far:

diamond paste 7/5 on iron
diamond paste 0,5/0 on brass
polinoxx on brass - don't think its a good idea, I suppose its better for polishing wheels which you can use on dremel tool
diamantine paste - I assume its fine grit

anything on iron disk seems to be very aggressive, more like buffing, not polishing.

Ive prepared a few screws, so I will blue some and check if it looks good enough at polish level I received now.

Anyway, great thanks for all advise and movie links guys.

Rafal,

I would not file it the face, has to be perfect. Do any wheel restoration with papers over flat steel or glass, afterwards, clean 100% then start all over with your fresh powders.
I see you say you do not have the final polish wheel!, that is the one for mirror finish, wax polish will work on that or super fine powders, I have diamond spray also for lapping wheels. I bought fresh bergeon powders ( No 6807 M & EF) they work well and last a lifetime.
don't use a dremal you will round the face off that is the reason for using this machine is to make a flat polished screw head, you could just dremel it from start to finish.

Chris,

I will refinish wheels as you suggest on flat surface. Boxwood is on the way, its very hard to find even a piece of boxwood, but I have a guy who will fabricate it for me on wood lathe, I should get it soon.
For mirror finish I thought diamond paste 0,5/0 microns should be sufficient, so I will try that and let you know if that works. And will check those bergeon powders as well. I don't use dremel as well, just wanted to point that polinoxx is not good for lorch tool. Thanks.

yes diamond 0.5 will do fine by that stage you are so fine you have many options/final metal polishes/wax I have a spray 0.5 I use on the lap wheel for final polish on gravers. Also one last note unless you have owned all the powders from new I would just toss them and start fresh you never know how the last owner used them or added. I remove once with clean tool never go back for more without cleaning tool each time, avoiding taking contaminates back to bottle.

Hi Chris, sorry I referred to you as a watch repairer. I have since rectified that. No offence intended.

All the best, Mike

Rafal,

In the past I have used (for final finish) 3M Lapping film (3 micron, pink) laid on a piece of glass with a little clock oil. Finish up with a piece of Tyvek on glass charged with .5 micron diamond powder, again, with a little oil to serve as vehicle. The reason I chose Tyvek is because it doesn't have the impurities found in many papers that can ruin your final finish. Although I haven't done this in a while, I found it to be a perfect system for imparting a final mirror finish to flat steel watch parts. I have plenty of both here and if you'd like a few pieces of each to try, email me your address and I'll send them.

In no way do I wish to step on anyone's toes here. It's just that I remember setting off on the same quest a few years back, and I'm sharing what I learned.

William

Chris,

You've got some really great videos on your youtube channel!

William

William,

I never used 3m lapping film or Tyvek, from this what you said it may be worth trying

Chriss,

Ive redone lapping disks and they looks much better, but I think some of the particles from sanding paper contaminated it, I will try remove it somehow

All compounds I used were brand new and that I think exclude it from error factors.



Ive been quite bussy so, Im sorry for late answer

Rafal

Rafal,

I would just mention that using a piece of glass with small screw heads may be tricky since everything needs to be 90 degrees. Any tipping of the screw equals gouging the 3M film and the Tyvek. Since you already have a screw polishing setup, you might simply adhere the film and Tyvek to the disc face. I'll send you these things at my next opportunity. ...and good luck!

William

Hi William,

Thanks, I was going to try and do a series of simple how to and demonstrations just the basic people don't show, just got to busy to mess and my good intention fell to one side.

here is another gizmo for screwhead polishing, small table (this one missing some screws)hold the head at 90 when adjusted correctly, of course keep the tool feet on the glass!.

2

Chris,

I've never even seen one of those, it's a very simple and sensible tool, especially when using films and papers. I have a screw head polishing tool like the one in your video, and it's too cool not to use! Eventually I'd like to get a new brass disc made for it.

The 3M films are a fairly recent discovery and they make them all the way down to .5 micron. Knowing you, you probably already have this material. It has been very useful here. ...whenever I decide to work on a watch, which is maybe twice a year!

Happy New Year.

William

Ive seen tool presented by Chris, some people even fabricate them. Looks nice and seem to work well if leveled properly.

Willam, if you want to buy replacement disks for your tool you can check horia website. Its a bit expensive - about 50 euro depends on disk. They offer many accessories but the prices....

Btw. What kind of glass you use guys? Any special glass?

Rafal

Rafal,

Any new glass made for glazing or framing is made using the "float" process and is very flat.

William

Just received wooden disks I will give a try when I have some time, its made of boxwood.

@William, I just received package, thanks