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Split-plate advantages revisited "Click" to Login or Register 
Picture of Stu Goldstein
posted
(I hope this’s the right forum for this question!)

Michael Harrold (American Watchmaking, p. 44) says that split-plate movements, though more expensive to produce than fullplates, were easier to work on and thus more popular with the trade.

Would that statement be just as true of split-plate movements like for example the Elgin 16S Model 3 or the Hampden 16S Series I with concealed crown- and ratchet- wheels?
 
Posts: 355 | Location: Northern Idaho in the U.S.A. | Registered: November 26, 2002
Picture of Kenny Drafts
posted
Stu,
From a repair standpoint the three finger models such as the Elgin 16s model 6 or 9 are easier to work with. Basically because you only have one pivot to line up per plate. If you just want to replace or work on one particular wheel it is easier to remove the one plate rather than disassemble the whole watch as in a full plate. Also the full plates and watches with more pivots per plate can be a little tricky and more time consuming to reassemble as it isn`t real easy to get all the pivots lined up correctly to go under the one plate. The two finger models with exposed winding is a good compromise and preferable to full plate since the click is more accessible to let down the power.

Smile


Kenny
 
Posts: 359 | Location: Lexington, South Carolina USA | Registered: July 28, 2003
posted
I recently cleaned and oiled a Bond Street keywind, full plate movement.
These are difficult to asemble, first off upside down and the fit is not great and it was a 7 jewel.I will try to avoid these in the future.I have asembled other full plates upside down and much easier than the Bond.It is my freind,s watch, so i told him no problem i would clean it for him.Surprising this watch runs great after very little wear on it.
 
Posts: 2133 | Registered: June 01, 2003
IHC Life Member
Picture of John D. Duvall
posted
Dog,

The bridge design of the Elgin 16s, model 3 is an easy movement to work on. Mainly because it's lever set. It's classified as a 3/4 plate or could be called a "split plate" I guess.

Personally, I can assemble a full plate movement much faster and easier than many of the Elgin 3/4 plate models.


Kenny,

Although the Elgin finger bridge models appear to have seperate bridges, it's just one bridge with three screws and can be a bear to install sometimes.
 
Posts: 1123 | Location: Arizona U.S.A. | Registered: January 21, 2003
Picture of Kenny Drafts
posted
John,
Thanks for correcting my mistake! I just chose a movement, in haste, that I thought would emphasize my point of; "the fewer pivots per plates the better".
A speedy reply does no good if it is inaccurate. Another case of what happens when we "assume"!

Red Face Red Face


Kenny
 
Posts: 359 | Location: Lexington, South Carolina USA | Registered: July 28, 2003
IHC Life Member
Picture of John D. Duvall
posted
Kenny,

I used to think they were seperate also! Smile Elgin probably copied the look of the Swiss bar movement for the train bridge area. My rarest finger bridge is an Elgin 16s model 2. Just need a case for it which is getting harder to find.
 
Posts: 1123 | Location: Arizona U.S.A. | Registered: January 21, 2003
posted
Kevin, I concur completely with your experience on the Bond St. These 16 and 14 size that are a complete plate are a bear to reassemble. The books call them a 3/4 plate not a full plate. The Waltham 6S model 1889 is another example.

If you think the Waltham was difficult, try a NYS of the same layout. They are even worse.

Tom
 
Posts: 1060 | Registered: March 10, 2003
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