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I've had a couple of problems with watch crystals that I've cemented in falling out a week or two later. I've used a couple of different brands of crystal cement and wonder if crystal cement is like super-glue in that less is better. Should I only put a few drops of cement on the bezel? I'd appreciate any input. Thanks, Steve | |||
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IHC President Life Member |
Welcome Aboard Steve! Here is my preferred method, see if it helps you... First "fit" my crystal to the bezel and "spin" it for best fit. Mark that position on both crystal and bezel. Back it off and remove. Then bed the crystal cement evenly into the bezel grove all the way around. Quickly wipe your finger all the way around the bezel to remove excess. Very carefully insert the crystal by lining up your markings and ease it into place. Clean off your hands immediately with acetone-based finger nail polish remover. Let the crystal air dry for a few hours or use a hair dryer to speed the process. Clean any excess crystal cement away using a soft cloth and the acetone-based finger nail polish remover. I use only "L & R Crystal Precision Cement" and the "Cutex" finger nail polish remover. Others may have additional recommendations. Lindell | |||
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Thanks Lindell. I'll give it a try on Monday. Steve | ||||
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IHC Life Member Certified Watchmaker |
Hi Steve, Lindell There are of course many different ways to do this and numerous adhesives I prefer a UV setting type made for this application. The first things is to remove the old bezel and completely clean all the glue away sometimes simple peg wood is enough you may need to soak in chemicals etc to soften, avoid the temptation of using screwdrivers, tweezers etc or any other sharp object close to hand! As you will scratch the bezel once cleaned select the correct diameter of crystal then also check for hand clearance etc. Remove bezel and degrease cleaning out the groove completely, thoroughly clean the crystal also degrease. Once they are perfectly dry using the micro applicator needle and in one smooth motion rotate round leaving a thin bead inside the bezel lip only. Without touching the now perfectly clean crystal, pick it up, I use a old blob of rodoco, now this is a one shot deal, if you miss you will have glue everywhere and need to clean everything out and start again. Place the crystal in to the bezel and rotate about half turn to draw and evenly seat the adhesive making a seal, place under the UV lamp box.. this of course is for a typical glass crystal, there are many other adhesives for plastic WW, specialized for waterproof watches etc not to mention press fit plastic crystal for pocket watches & WW. NEVER used superglue for ANYTHING watch related it dries and fractures, there is no place for it on the bench It lasts long enough for someone to glue a watch together and get it sold on ebay! Just about the time they have had there positive feedback all those parts start falling out; hairspring collet, roller tables, jewels, plates, crystals etc I seen them all glued in place. | |||
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IHC Life Member Watchmaker |
I agree with Chris on the UV cement for glass. The use of Rodico to pick up the crystal is brilliant. I will use it for the next crystal I set. For plastic I use the GS cement. I go all the way around for round crystals, but usually only do the corners with the other shapes. | |||
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IHC Member |
Chris-My thanks also for that rodico tip; I've had to re-do my work because of the awkwardness of handling those crystals. Marty | |||
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IHC Life Member Certified Watchmaker |
Rodico never dies, once its short life on watch movements passes, it can be used for all kind of things, and when really dirty usless greasy blob you can also pass it on to the kids to play with. There are 3 types out there now all with different qualities and used in there own right | |||
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IHC Life Member Watchmaker |
Chris, What are the three different types of Rodico? I am only familiar with the old green stuff. I recently read that rodico used on watch parts should never be touched with your fingers and should only be used one time. Apparantly there is much transfer of the oil from ones skin to the watch parts. It does make some sense to me, and now I am going through three times as much Rodico. What is your take on this? | |||
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IHC Life Member Certified Watchmaker |
There is standard rodico light green soft, then one by A*F “Rub Off” and a similar one from Bergeon called premium these are harder, and don’t tend to smear as much firmer so can slide and wipe where as the rodico needs to be dabbed. I also have changed the way I use mine I have small sealed tins for each, using a clean blade slice off a pea sized piece and using tweezers only place in the tin, again trying my best to only handle and use with tweezers, will lift better and leave less residue and your not dabbing your finger grease/salts all over the movement, also with these small amounts I don’t mind putting this into the used pile after a short use and getting a new blob. End of day the stuff is cheap compares to all the rest of the chemicals and consumables used | |||
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Thanks for the heads-up on the uv cement and lamp. Got them from Casker and used them on 4 crystals this week without any problem. What's nice is they both paid for themselves after 2 crystals. | ||||
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