This came to me from eBay as a "Broke Elgin" for 'seventeen bucks'.
I think its a lot more than that. It is very accurate, looks like a Gruen 756 Bridge movement, but I have no idea who Watch Specialties Co., or C&DS (did I get the order right on those initials?) are, or mean. Whoever made it made Gruens too. The front plate is "SUISSE" signed too. NO S/N!

Looks like a 17 Jewel 756 in a 12 size cased with 19 Jewels where the extra jewels are escape wheel cap jewels.

Who are these people on the signatures of a nice 19j adjusted Gruen loooking piece with a Gruen Dial? Is that C&DS?

Less than 1 sec error per day is "Durned Good" for a 'seventeen buck' watch! Somebody HELP! What is this "masked watch"?

David,

You have a good eye, because what you have is an early Gruen. The "C&DS" you noted is actually the surcharged monogram for Dietrich Gruen and Sons, (DG&S), which dates production to somehwere prior to the incorporation of the Gruen Watch Co. in 1911. Earlier examples are made in Germany, these later Swiss models date from 1905 to 1910ish. The Watch Specialties signature further dates it closer to 1910. Watch Specialties was a Gruen subsidiary used for importing Swiss watches in the 1908 to 1920 timeframe. Most of the very early Gruen wristwatches are branded Watch Specialties, and were imported as complete pieces. The pocketwatches are occasionally seen in Swiss cases, but sometimes have Gruen National Watch Case Co. (GNWCC) cases (pre-1911, or Gruen signed cases made by Wadsworth.

The caliber designations on the pillar plate don't show up until a bit later. These threads from the "green board" have some additional images and info.

Columbus movements?

Gruen / Premo Watch Co.

Regards,

Cary

Thanks for the info Cary, I see now that I got pretty lucky with this. So now I have to see if there is a better dial somewhere, and the case screw. Heck, I think I could clean the movement too, that seems like an easy task. Nice basic watch.
I will work on this dial, as if it is truly silver plated, it may just be tarnished, which can be carefully cleaned.

David,

Nice looking movement!
I can't add to what's already been written here about it, but looking at the dial, I think it will be either silver plated (most probable)or solid silver.
I've cleaned both types very successfully using a product called 'silver dip' which I buy off eBay.

The numerals are painted on and usually quite firm, but I wouldn't advise rubbing the dial face when cleaning it.
After dipping, I usually rinse under warm water, then dab the face dry with tissue followed by a light polishing with a soft cloth (Haggerty polishing cloths are ideal), then a light wax polish to stop further tarnish.

I recon a cleaning will expose a nice sunburst engine turning on that dial centre.

Another method that cleans a treat if you can get hold of any, is to use silver pen plating fluid on a cotton bud.
This stuff usually contains a small amount of cyanide which makes stains vanish like magic, but it does leave the finish of the silver a touch matte!
Either wear latex gloves though, or wash hands afterwards and don't bite your nails

I've never lost any painted bits yet, and the results never fail to please!

I'd probably forget trying to find another dial ........ but you might get lucky again

Pretty good $17 worth you got there I think!

John

I see the DGS Trademark Cary mentions in the 1915 Trademarks book listed as

D. Gruen, Sons, & Co.
31 E. Fifth Ave.
Cincinnati, Ohio

Watch Specialities Co. is also listed there too.

David,

I wish I knew why Gruen used such a confusing mix of names and trademarks. The links posted above have several examples of just how confusing these can be. I've got one with four different signatures.

The dial should be solid silver.I've had good luck using the process John described with a product called "Tarn-X", which is available at most grocery and discount type stores.

Be careful with the name, but the numerals and the "17 jewels" signature in the subdial should be hard enamel, so you can lightly rub without harming them. For the center section, work the solution in with a cotton swab or bit of sponge, then rinse in cold water.

If you need a correct case screw, or any other parts, let me know. If the profiles are still locked, it's churt44966@aol.com

Regards,

Cary