Just got a couple of watches in that I thought I would post for discussion.

This one is a Swiss piece in a 14K hunter case. About the size of a 16 size American Watch. Stem wind, lever set. Serial number 64656. It was is private labeled H.W. Curtis - Knoxville, Tenn. Dial marked the same as the movement.

I have two questions about this piece:
1) Who is the maker? I have a strong suspicion but would like to hear your input before I say.

2) Does anyone have any info on the name H.W. Curtis out of Knoxville? Google isn't turning up much.

Here's a closer shot of the movement. The only other markings beside the serial number and private label are "adjusted" & "patented" by the mainspring barrel.

The regulator and escapement should provide some clues.

As far as I know, this movement remains a mystery. They have been discussed before, such as in THIS THREAD. I have seen quite a number of these -- all high grade -- all private label.

My vote is Vacheron

The regulator is Wilmot's patent. I don't recall seeing it on a Vacheron, but I don't see a lot of them.

It was used extensively by Tiffany, Patek and sometimes by Audemars. I don't recall seeing any signed Patek examples without the wolf's tooth winding. I have never been able to convince myself that any bridge movements were made by Tiffany.

I wish some good literature provenance would turn up on these movements.

Hi All,

I have a watch that is marked Giles Bros Chicago. Same type of high grade Swiss movement. It is not a Patek, VC maybe, Agassiz maybe... it would be nice to see who the maker was.

Bruce

H. W. Curtis had a jewelry store in Old Town Knoxville in the late 1800, early 1900 time period, and his store was just down the street from the main L&N depot (the station is still in existance, by the way). He sold private label railroad grade watches, as well as watches like these. Not sure when his shop closed, but his inventory still pops up in some of the old pawn shops in Knoxville to this day. I know where an openface Waltham 15j 18s with a Curtis private label dial is in Tullahoma at this very moment. In handling that watch, in my research of the area, is how I've come to know what I do about the Curtis Jewelry Co. of Knoxville, TN. Regards! Mark

Have seen this regulator on many Omega aswell but there isn´t anything similar more than just that.

This is Vacheron.

/Bernhard

I have seen both the regulator and escapement on Patek's. This is what I initially tended toward. However, like Tom said, on the Patek movements with this regulator, you will normally see wolf's tooth winding gears. It is definately a high grade movement. Just sent it off to be serviced. Maybe we will get lucky and find something under the dial. Will let you know if I do.

Thanks for everyone's input. A special thanks to Mark for the insight into the name.

i'm due...agassiz

vacheron has a tell tale bump in the bridge

like this one...

may have jumped the gun....

here's a "hArrington watch co." agassiz

no snailcam regulator.... sold the watch and have no pictures of the escapement....

I have a mvt which is practically identical except that mine is open face. It has even less in the way of identification, nothing on the dial and only "specially adjusted" on the mvt. I always leaned toward Vacheron but with no good reason.

I have always been curious about the projection on the balance bridge across from the hairspring stud.

Any ideas anyone?

Maurice

Hi David,It looks like we have similar watches.Mine is also a private label marked Hammersmith & Field San Francisco on the dial,case and movement. The movement is also marked non magnetic and has a Patent date MAY15/APR24 88. The case and movement also share the same serial number. It is cased in a beautiful solid 14k engine turned hunter case. lastly it is lever set. Ill post a picture later today. Like you, Ive come up blank as to what comany produced this movement . Somebody I hope has an answer for us.

Mike

Here are the pictures. Sorry about the quality Photograher Im not.

one more to follow....

last one.